Frame and tub restoration

What is the story on that weld along the top edge of the transfer case skid pan? Surely the skid plate isn’t welded to the frame is it? Maybe this was a previous repair to the bottom of the frame where it had rusted out?
 
What is the story on that weld along the top edge of the transfer case skid pan? Surely the skid plate isn’t welded to the frame is it? Maybe this was a previous repair to the bottom of the frame where it had rusted out?
PO told me he had to weld a piece of metal on both sides because either the bolts snapped or he cut them off dont remember. ..
 
ya, i'd also like a small blaster, something with a nice controlled tip for tight spots, small enough to not cover the driveway in black beauty or decimated walnut shells..
this would even allow for easy removal of surface rust from the thin tub metal, with proper pressure control. with the right wands you could get up into the torque boxes and even some of the inner frame.
 
ya, i'd also like a small blaster, something with a nice controlled tip for tight spots, small enough to not cover the driveway in black beauty or decimated walnut shells..
this would even allow for easy removal of surface rust from the thin tub metal, with proper pressure control. with the right wands you could get up into the torque boxes and even some of the inner frame.
Found one at harbor freight just its gravity gun, wondering if it would work for tub and such places that will need to turn the gun upward...
 
Found one at harbor freight just its gravity gun, wondering if it would work for tub and such places that will need to turn the gun upward...
bottle fed gun? ...... if you could rig a flex tube to keep the material falling to the gun, but that'd be a PITA to hold upright and squirm around. even upright it's kinda bulky to get up under the tub and close to the top of the frame. save that for the small parts, bench projects.

i was lookin at the red bucket type they have. i think it's like 40$ i see um on FB for 25-30$
then it's just some different lengths of pipe and tips that'll fit my blower nozzle or a small valve.
gotta have the air to run it though, i'd need a reserve tank to be able to use 1, and not have the pump runnin full time.
 
bottle fed gun? ...... if you could rig a flex tube to keep the material falling to the gun, but that'd be a PITA to hold upright and squirm around. even upright it's kinda bulky to get up under the tub and close to the top of the frame. save that for the small parts, bench projects.

i was lookin at the red bucket type they have. i think it's like 40$ i see um on FB for 25-30$
then it's just some different lengths of pipe and tips that'll fit my blower nozzle or a small valve.
gotta have the air to run it though, i'd need a reserve tank to be able to use 1, and not have the pump runnin full time.
Yeah I might wait till the end and see..
 
That's lookin' sweet and clean! I got the exact same tools at local tractor supply this morning...
You gonna need more then one, I stoped by today i got few more while they still have them.
Yeah thing works great.
I'm worry about those tight spots. Thinking of getting cheap sand blaster for these spots. Just I only have 5galon air compressor..
 
My tub is all stripped and going to the paint shop tomorrow. $1000 for him to blast away all the rust, two coats of epoxy primer and then a coat of single stage paint on the inside. I know I could do it myself but this is the type of job I am happy to pay someone else to do properly.
 
Ugh... The weather been acting up lately so I only got a chance to work on it for three day 2-3 hour after work... the more I'm under the jeep the more I'm thinking of bringing it to the shop to have it professionally undercoat. Going to stop by at the shop tomorrow to see what they gonna say. My friend told me he had his truck done there and they go underneath spray the rust with some chemicals and then undercoat the whole thing.

I'm still planning on scraping as much as possible... its not gonna hurt that's for sure. I dont drive it in the salt.. its not my daily so I'm definitely not gonna drive in the salt.

Any thoughts?
 
@robert_tj_ski how is the progress on your frame? I am about to tackle the same job. Going to be stripping the frame with a similar scrub pad, and prepping for the POR15. I also ordered the internal frame paint. I know some are weary of encapsulating rust, but we don't have much choice up here in MA. My TJ is also a 2nd vehicle so I have plenty of time to clean the frame up right and do the 3 step POR15 process. What did you decide on for the tub? I've used a paint on undercoating in the past that I had success with. I can't remember what its called but it dries hard, not like the rubberized undercoating so its easier to clean.
 
@robert_tj_ski how is the progress on your frame? I am about to tackle the same job. Going to be stripping the frame with a similar scrub pad, and prepping for the POR15. I also ordered the internal frame paint. I know some are weary of encapsulating rust, but we don't have much choice up here in MA. My TJ is also a 2nd vehicle so I have plenty of time to clean the frame up right and do the 3 step POR15 process. What did you decide on for the tub? I've used a paint on undercoating in the past that I had success with. I can't remember what its called but it dries hard, not like the rubberized undercoating so its easier to clean.

I'm still working on it -_- . It's my second car too so I'm taking my time prepping it.
It had POR15 applied by PO and originally I was going to reapply POR15 too but after what i discovered what's happening underneath that i dicided NOT to apply again. I talked to few ppl (including honest guy how applies undercoating for living) they all saying POR15 is not that great you'll never have good results unless you take everything apart and do piece by piece. So I decided to clean everything as good as I can, then treat everything with "klean at stripper prep and etch" from home depot it's an chemical for rust it's the same chemical as the small bottle for big $. Then apply rustoleum rust reformer and pot coat it with some spray paint. It would be easy to observe new rust and treat it right away. For inside I have the Eastwood product.

I have couple weak spots you can see them on the pictures. Still dont know what to do with them, it's not bad as it looks on the pictures. Might do some patch idk yet.

Where you from in MA. Do you know any good welders around ?

Sorry some pictures are not that great because of the lighting.

20200430_110519.jpg


20200430_110526.jpg


20200430_110601.jpg


20200430_110545.jpg


20200430_110619.jpg


20200423_163931.jpg


20200421_195012.jpg


20200423_173047.jpg


20200423_163706.jpg


20200423_163906.jpg
 
@robert_tj_ski looking good. Those holes could be patched, I unfortunately don't know any good welders. I live in the Salem/Lynn area. So you decided against the POR15? is Chassis Saver in a similar realm? I like the idea of coating everything just once and done. I used the rustoleum rust reformer on my 2013 Silverado last year and it's already breaking down.
 
@robert_tj_ski looking good. Those holes could be patched, I unfortunately don't know any good welders. I live in the Salem/Lynn area. So you decided against the POR15? is Chassis Saver in a similar realm? I like the idea of coating everything just once and done. I used the rustoleum rust reformer on my 2013 Silverado last year and it's already breaking down.
Yes I'm against the POR15 unfortunately. How did you prepped? You have to degrease everything. I feel like prep is the key... also did you just left it like that or top coat it with paint ? I've read you need to top coat it within so many hours for best results.
I dont know what to do with these two spots. Someone said he could put an "L" profile over it and bent it to the frame shape. Other guy said he could grind out the weak spots and put a patch of the hole shape (but said he wouldn't have time now and recommended me to just keep going I still have like 80% left on these areas he said.... Idk what to do and what would be the best.
 
Yes I'm against the POR15 unfortunately. How did you prepped? You have to degrease everything. I feel like prep is the key... also did you just left it like that or top coat it with paint ? I've read you need to top coat it within so many hours for best results.
I dont know what to do with these two spots. Someone said he could put an "L" profile over it and bent it to the frame shape. Other guy said he could grind out the weak spots and put a patch of the hole shape (but said he wouldn't have time now and recommended me to just keep going I still have like 80% left on these areas he said.... Idk what to do and what would be the best.

Have you checked out Endangered Species Jeep in Holyoke? They did my re-gear, Dana 35-Dana 44 rear axle swap, and locker install, and I'm very pleased with the work they have done.