What did you do to your TJ today?

Looks great! I would have recommended taking them off though. I'm trying to get all the hidden spots cleaned up before I get them all muddy again. This is what I found after taking the flares off.

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Picking the Jeep up from a mechanic that insists I need a new PMC. Still getting the p0203 and p0303, a fairly significant misfire. New spark plugs, coil pack, cleaned throttle body, new TPS, and fuel injectors swapped places. Going to go with the Heat Shield wrap on the 3rd injector, clean connectors, and a PCM reset. All of this happened after new cats and o2 sensors(NTK) were put on. If all persists, Im taking to a real Jeep shop for a second opinion. Could very well be the PCM but I'm only at 80k miles with very minimal abuse, so Ill let the Jeep people get the final say.
 
Picking the Jeep up from a mechanic that insists I need a new PMC. Still getting the p0203 and p0303, a fairly significant misfire. New spark plugs, coil pack, cleaned throttle body, new TPS, and fuel injectors swapped places. Going to go with the Heat Shield wrap on the 3rd injector, clean connectors, and a PCM reset. All of this happened after new cats and o2 sensors(NTK) were put on. If all persists, Im taking to a real Jeep shop for a second opinion. Could very well be the PCM but I'm only at 80k miles with very minimal abuse, so Ill let the Jeep people get the final say.
If you need a new PCM - the only one you should consider is @Wranglerfix You can PM or give him a call to discuss the issues. He is highly trusted on this forum, and for good reason!
 
If you need a new PCM - the only one you should consider is @Wranglerfix You can PM or give him a call to discuss the issues. He is highly trusted on this forum, and for good reason!

Yep, that was my plan. Trouble shoot a little more, take it to a shop I trust and if they think PCM than Ill make sure they go through @Wranglerfix . Heard nothing but great things about him/company. Any idea roughly on turn around time for a new PCM to get in through him?
 
Yep, that was my plan. Trouble shoot a little more, take it to a shop I trust and if they think PCM than Ill make sure they go through @Wranglerfix . Heard nothing but great things about him/company. Any idea roughly on turn around time for a new PCM to get in through him?
With the COVID stuff going on I got mine in a week or so!
 
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Driving it daily. Knock on wood lol.
Got these little things today. Will try them out with the updated headlight loom in the H4 KC housings and compare them to the JW Speaker units and the osram H4 bulbs just because I can’t leave well enough alone.

LED H4 3200k temp and supposedly 10k lumen

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Installed new tail lights. Had to find replacement screws, which was a fun rookie challenge. Ended up getting M6-1.0 x 20mm Flanged Hex Bolts from Advanced Auto Parts since two of the originals wouldn't go back in. Replaced the roached cover screws with #8 x 1/2" stainless steel self-tapping pan head screws. My metric socket set was conveniently missing a 10mm socket so headed back out and got one of those too. Finding the right screws was harder than replacing the crankshaft position sensor IMO. :cool:
 
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Installed new tail lights. Had to find replacement screws, which was a fun rookie challenge. Ended up getting M6-1.0 x 20mm Flanged Hex Bolts from Advanced Auto Parts since two of the originals wouldn't go back in. Replaced the roached cover screws with #8 x 1/2" stainless steel self-tapping pan head screws. My metric socket set was conveniently missing a 10mm socket so headed back out and got one of those too. Finding the right screws was harder than replacing the crankshaft position sensor IMO. :cool:
There’s gotta be a place where those 10mm sockets go to.
 
Spent the better part of this afternoon laying under it trying to track down all the little nuisance thunks and clunks. The main one felt like something in the drivetrain or suspension when I shift just didn't feel right...too sloppy is how I'd describe it. I checked the control arm bolts and nuts for tightness...seemed tight. But, as I kept changing my position so I could see each location as I rocked it back and forth while it was in gear, I finally saw some movement at the driverside lower control arm connection to the axle. I cranked on the bolt and nut for all I was worth. Still movement. I disassembled and rotated the control arm...thinking maybe the sleeve could make a difference on the other end. That did the trick. Test drive felt great. I can just imagine what new arms would do for the seat of the pants feel. The others are sway bar bushings and end links that need replaced.

One other thing, I had taken the tow bar set up off and the bolts that were in the steering box location are now too long. I contrived a temporary fix by adding washers and a nut to make up the difference. Not having any luck finding an OEM replacement...Anybody know of a source or specs to acquire bolts.

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Spent the better part of this afternoon laying under it trying to track down all the little nuisance thunks and clunks. The main one felt like something in the drivetrain or suspension when I shift just didn't feel right...too sloppy is how I'd describe it. I checked the control arm bolts and nuts for tightness...seemed tight. But, as I kept changing my position so I could see each location as I rocked it back and forth while it was in gear, I finally saw some movement at the driverside lower control arm connection to the axle. I cranked on the bolt and nut for all I was worth. Still movement. I disassembled and rotated the control arm...thinking maybe the sleeve could make a difference on the other end. That did the trick. Test drive felt great. I can just imagine what new arms would do for the seat of the pants feel. The others are sway bar bushings and end links that need replaced.

One other thing, I had taken the tow bar set up off and the bolts that were in the steering box location are now too long. I contrived a temporary fix by adding washers and a nut to make up the difference. Not having any luck finding an OEM replacement...Anybody know of a source or specs to acquire bolts.

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View attachment 178825

It looks like part #2 in this diagram is it, but a search of the part number came up with discontinued.

I‘d just pull one and take it to a hardware store and match up a slightly shorter one.

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Broke a gas tank strap adjusting my gas tank skid plate rearward. Track bar is hitting slightly and the strap wasn't totally tight. Need to pull the tank, trim the corner of the bracket that is hanging up on the body mount, and replace straps. Not super impressed with this Metalcloak tank skid but it was free, so I will fight it a little.

Will probably pull the rear axle forward 3/8" to 1/2" when I install the new Savvy control arms next week.