Yes it is angled, but how the trackbar bracket attaches to the axle that angle makes the main part of the bracket go straight up. The JKS has the 2nd bend which makes it pull away from the gas tank. It probably will only pull the track bar about a 1/4-1/2 inch away but that hopefully would be the amount needed.
Rear track bar rubbing on gas tank bolt
- Thread starter jazz-n-tj
- Start date
@jazz-n-tj, if you're pinion is pointing at the TCase output shaft, like it should be, then your axle is rolled backward and the trackbar is rotated backward to so it crashes into the gas tank skid. You have to get an angled rear trackbar relocation bracket and an adjustable rear trackbar, then you have to have adjustable rear CA's so you can move the axle forward enough to clear the gas tank skid. Sorry, no other solutions.
EDIT: Of course, you can add more bumpstop, but who wants to do that?
EDIT: Of course, you can add more bumpstop, but who wants to do that?
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Look again. That second angle is there in the zone bracket although it looks to be minimal.
Okay I see that the Zone has a slight bend, the one I have is completely straight. I will start with the JKS and see if that solves the problem. If not, then it is onto adjustable rear CAs. Do I need all 4 CAs to be adjustable or just uppers or lowers? Also the current lift is not the most expensive and I'm trying to keep it within a budget. I see a side range of prices for CAs I can get all 4 rear CA from Rough Country for $360 and up to $800 for RockJock. I eventually want to save and get a nice LJ and then do everything the best way I can, but on this TJ I am looking for budget friendly options that will last well enough. Also here is a picture of my pinion angle up to my TC.
Good plan, start with the bracket, then go to adjustable CA's. IF you just do uppers or just lowers, you can only rotate the pinion, you can't change the wheelbase (without messing up your pinion angle). Think Core 4x4 for yoru CA's on a budget. They have four tiers, with Tier 1 being the cheapest (lifetime warranty).
edit: Hold on! I think your control arms are adjustable. They are the type that one part of the arm threads into the other. You can see a zerk in your lower right control arm.
Really? I figured they were not adjustable because I didn't see any threads or a locking nut (like you see on most adjustable control arms). I always wondered why there was a zerk in the middle of the control arm. If they are adjustable, then all 8 control arms (front and rear) are adjustable! Since I bought it pre-built (for the most part) I don't know what parts have been used. I did some searching and found an older style of JKS https://www.ezwheeler.com/products/control-arm-6100?variant=40109664582 adjustable control arms that are as you described. I have no idea if mine are JKS I just used these as an example. SO I guess the way to find out if they are adjustable is to take one off and see if it threads in or out.
With that said, should I still order the angled Track Bar bracket? Also, if I need to adjust my control arms I am assuming I should shorten all the arms the same amount to keep the pinion angle. Suspension stuff (especially aftermarket) is new to me. I have been repairing cars since high school but it was always bringing things back to stock and replacing parts/rebuilding engines.
If anyone can direct me in where I should go from here. New track bar, just adjust CA's, or both. I'm happy to do whatever is necessary, I just don't want to start down the wrong path.
I greatly appreciate everyone's input who have directed me so far. This forum is amazing.
With that said, should I still order the angled Track Bar bracket? Also, if I need to adjust my control arms I am assuming I should shorten all the arms the same amount to keep the pinion angle. Suspension stuff (especially aftermarket) is new to me. I have been repairing cars since high school but it was always bringing things back to stock and replacing parts/rebuilding engines.
If anyone can direct me in where I should go from here. New track bar, just adjust CA's, or both. I'm happy to do whatever is necessary, I just don't want to start down the wrong path.
I greatly appreciate everyone's input who have directed me so far. This forum is amazing.
most use the bracket to keep and try to avoid pulling the axle forward.
you could pull the frame end of the track bar. once loose, if that end is forced back behind the mount point and you have to push to get it back inline then an angled bracket is in order. if it happens to go right back in real easy then your inline and may have to trim that bolt. if you are considering a new track bar and it's not gonna be bent the same way and you need to start this when you have it ready to install.
you could pull the frame end of the track bar. once loose, if that end is forced back behind the mount point and you have to push to get it back inline then an angled bracket is in order. if it happens to go right back in real easy then your inline and may have to trim that bolt. if you are considering a new track bar and it's not gonna be bent the same way and you need to start this when you have it ready to install.
@JeepingNet I'm assuming what you are talking about is the big washer on the upper control arm that connects to the axle? If so, I don't understand how the rear axle is adjustable for camber being a solid axle. If it is, please explain. I'm not looking to adjust it because my tires are wearing perfectly, I'm just curious and want to learn.
Edit-I just found that they are cam bolts for adjusting pinion angle. From what I can tell they are not necessary with Adjustable CA's. I wonder if these were installed initially by the previous owner and then the ACA's were added later or they just wanted as much adjustability as possible.
Edit-I just found that they are cam bolts for adjusting pinion angle. From what I can tell they are not necessary with Adjustable CA's. I wonder if these were installed initially by the previous owner and then the ACA's were added later or they just wanted as much adjustability as possible.
What lifts were doing for a while where they would include fixed arms to get your angles near correctness but then the cam bolt would be used to fine-tune the angle. But I think this practice was abandoned because the rear bolts were not keeping their position.
So would the recommendation be to remove the cam bolts and get fixed grade 8 bolts and only use the adjustable control arms?
unless you have reason to believe they are causing an issue, they are a non issue. if they bug you, replace them with some hardened washers and torque to spec.
So I am having to replace the bushing on my passenger rear upper control arm where it connects to axle bushing and I was dealing with the the cam bolts on the control arm (as pictured above in previous post). They were worn and slipping. I am guessing I should just replace it with grade 8 bolt, washers, and nut. Once I replace the bushing, I am assuming all I need to do is torque it down. Am I safe to guess that the cams let go and that is what caused that bushing to get worn out? If I am doing it, I should probably replace the otherside's also since they are not really helping me since i have adjustable CA's.