Control Arms Are Next

D

davidgoodman

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
47
Location
Henryville, IN
I will be doing the control arm upgrade soon. Based on all the posts I have read here I have decided on Currie.
Looking for feedback on the front axle housing kit. Do most of you include this also?
Guess this would allow more front axle articulation, but based on my build so far is this over doing it or will it be beneficial?



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Since people frequently ask this is where I am now -
2" OME springs, 4;11 gears, Rancho 5100's, JKS adjustable track bars, JKS front disconnects, SYE, Tom Woods rear shaft, cross member kit, transfer case cable shifter, 1" MML, flat Barnes skid plate, Rugged Ridge Hurricane flares, 31's.
 
I wouldn't worry about it. I have a full set of Currie arms and stock bushings on my front axle. I also have 2" of lift. Not having them doesn't limit flex.
 
I just put that exact kit on my TJ as all my old rubber bushing were worn out servcable and greaseable np more clunks and axle wrap I added Apoc CA and mine drives great now install pretty easy need to be able to weld
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still taped up from paint easiest way to install is to completely remove the axle from your Jeep
 
I have all Savvy arms and did replace my factory front diff bushings with new OEM style when I installed them. My thoughts are the Johnny Joints and reinforced bracket adds durability and the ability to rebuild the joints. Doubt it will add any articulation in your case or mine. I have 4” Currie springs.
 
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The new housings exist because the stock upper right front mount is essentially heavy sheet metal ....mine didn't bend but it got sloppy where the bushing fit...and John Currie is all about making things better. A new housing was money well spent.

I know all control arm connections matter, but the upper right front can have a hand in death wobble in some cases...Blaine points that out...not me...but I've seen and felt it first hand when mine went bad.

What you are looking at in a Johnny Joint is a brilliant piece of design. strong, smooth and serviceable.
 
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AndyG said:
The new housings exist because the stock upper right front mount is essentially heavy sheet metal ....mine didn't bend but it got sloppy where the bushing fit...and John Currie is all about making things better. A new housing was money well spent.

I know all control arm connections matter, but the upper right front can have a hand in death wobble in some cases...Blaine points that out...not me...but I've seen and felt it first hand when mine went bad.

What you are looking at in a Johnny Joint is a brilliant piece of design. strong, smooth and serviceable.
Click to expand...
X2
 
I guess it depends on how hard you are planning to run your TJ. If you aren't banging boulders on a regular basis (and the stock mount is in good shape) you would be fine without it.
If, on the other hand, your stock mount is showing its age and has loosened or cracked the metal then upgrading to that Currie mount should be a solution that never fails.
 
It depends on the amount of shock travel. The further past stock and the more of that you use, the less the factory bushings are going to last.
 
AndyG said:
I know all control arm connections matter, but the upper right front can have a hand in death wobble in some cases...Blaine points that out...not me...but I've seen and felt it first hand when mine went bad.
Click to expand...
What are you yammering about?
 
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Looking at this as well. When installing my savvy uppers the driver side bushing metal spacer burnt out while drilling it to 7/16th passenger i think did all right.

Looming at more of a Blaine style passenger mount than the currie kit. Using two driver joints and a Barnes tower reinforcement.
 
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