Currie Rear Track Bar Question

jesseshoots

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Feb 20, 2019
Messages
862
Location
Charlotte, NC
I’m finishing up the last of my suspension mods and finally got the rear track bar installed. Got it leveled off on the ground under its own weight to find out I’m off on my adjustment. I put a piece of angle across the tire and it measure 4.25” to the frame on the right and 3.25” on the left.

That would mean I need to push the axle 1/2” to the left… which means extending the Johnny Joint out of the bar further. It’s already maxed out at my safe zone of 1” thread engagement in the bar and I need another 1/2” out of it. Can I be the only person this is happening to?

The welds around the original track bar bracket look like garbage which makes me think it was welded back on in the wrong position at some point in its life.

The Johnny joint used in the track bar is linked below.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9112N-15-Narrow-2-Johnny-Joint-Forged-1-RH-Thread-1.600-x-.480-Ball
 
I suspect the driver's side track bar mount or its position is the problem. Can you jack up the frame up and after taking the tires off let the axle droop way down so you can take and post a couple well lit (use the flash) photos of the driver's side track bar mount?
 
I suspect the driver's side track bar mount or its position is the problem. Can you jack up the frame up and after taking the tires off let the axle droop way down so you can take and post a couple well lit (use the flash) photos of the driver's side track bar mount?
Will these do? I pulled a tape from the edge of the casting to the inside most wall of the stock bracket and it’s 4.25”. Can someone measure theirs? This was a donor 44 with drums that the PO had a shop install.

12873090-6DBB-4500-A3B5-7FC009717845.jpeg


FA07F6D9-2881-4267-99F0-46B7440DC2DD.jpeg


2630E8CE-3C36-42E6-BB69-AC10938B7C3D.jpeg
 
Any other takes on this? I’m thinking that I have two options.

1.Cut off the existing bracket and weld on a new one (really don’t want to do this since I don’t have a welder)

2. Purchase this 5” long Johnny Joint and if need be cut some of the length off.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9112....600-in.-x-0.562-in.-5-in.-Long-1-in.-14-RH-T
I’d have to drill out the axle bracket for a larger bolt and buy one, but all in I’d be looking at $70 instead of multiple shop hours of labor and a new bracket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ Starting
  • Like
Reactions: jesseshoots
@mrblaine what are your thoughts on the situation I'm describing? Have you ever experienced this with a Dana 44 out of a non-rubicon?
The mounts are in the same spot for all 3 rear axle, 35, non Rubi 44 and Rubi 44. You have a piece welded to the back lower face of your trackbar mount that is highly suspect and leads one to wonder what was done to it. The fact that the end of the Currie mount isn't in contact with the axle tube or at least looks like it isn't also adds to that.

Were I in your situation, I'd just cut and extend the track bar slightly to solve it and move on.
 
The mounts are in the same spot for all 3 rear axle, 35, non Rubi 44 and Rubi 44. You have a piece welded to the back lower face of your trackbar mount that is highly suspect and leads one to wonder what was done to it. The fact that the end of the Currie mount isn't in contact with the axle tube or at least looks like it isn't also adds to that.
That piece was from the old track bar relocation bracket that was welded to the stock one. That face was left on because it had been plug welded and there was no way I was getting it off with the tools I have. I thought I ground down the upper edge of it enough to clear the bend in the Currie bracket but I was mistaken once I got it all on and torqued down. It's no more than 1/8" off the tube so I figured it could be bridged with the help of a good welder.

IMG_0576.jpg


Were I in your situation, I'd just cut and extend the track bar slightly to solve it and move on.
That's a good idea. Any particular tips for doing so other than finding a piece of 1.25" thick wall tube and butt weld it in there?
 
Here is mine. I forgot I have a now obsolete Currie reinforcement bracket installed, so that is why my junction block is obscured. I will say that my approximate center to center distance from the track bar bolt to the vent tube is 4.5'ish inches.

IMG_20210607_120053321_HDR.jpg
 
I'm thinking more about Blaine's suggestion to lengthen the bar and started doing some searching. I wont know until I cut it up, but it looks like the thickest wall 4130 readily available is 0.120". I want to put a slug in and v-notch the tubes to allow for proper penetration and strength. I don't know shit about how to weld myself, but I have a bunch of guys at work that do it for a living while I sit in the AC. I think 1" bar and 1.25"x0.120" wall tube should do the trick.

Now to talk measurements... If I need an additional 0.5" of adjustment, and have about 1.25" worth of thread already exposed (not including what the jam nut is covering), I was thinking of adding 1.25" worth of length to the bar. Any recommendations for how far a slug should extend inside a tube past the weld joint?

1623083002797.png
 
I'm thinking more about Blaine's suggestion to lengthen the bar and started doing some searching. I wont know until I cut it up, but it looks like the thickest wall 4130 readily available is 0.120". I want to put a slug in and v-notch the tubes to allow for proper penetration and strength. I don't know shit about how to weld myself, but I have a bunch of guys at work that do it for a living while I sit in the AC. I think 1" bar and 1.25"x0.120" wall tube should do the trick.

Now to talk measurements... If I need an additional 0.5" of adjustment, and have about 1.25" worth of thread already exposed (not including what the jam nut is covering), I was thinking of adding 1.25" worth of length to the bar. Any recommendations for how far a slug should extend inside a tube past the weld joint?

View attachment 257794
Aircraft Spruce has 1.25" x .156 wall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jesseshoots