Advice on Painting Half Doors

GeorgeB

GeorgeB

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I got a nice score on Craigslist...$200 for a set of half doors, uppers with zippers and interior panels. All in nice shape. I already refurbed the interior panels. I don't have a lot of bodywork experience. While I'm not afraid to learn by failure, I'd like to get this right the first time. Getting the paint from Automotive Touchup...Stone White.

Questions:
1.). Strip to bare metal or scuff existing paint and spray over it?
2.). Hand sand with 80 grit or use stripping disc with drill/grinder for full strip? If just scuffed, what grit?
3.). Self-etching primer then sandable for full strip? Just sandable for scuff?

TIA
20210707_093426.jpg
 
Do body work. D.A. With 320. Seal it and shoot it.

Or just take it to the local paint guys and have them do it. Less hassle, they have all the equipment. Unless you want to do it yourself. It will probably cost the same, maybe less, if you farm it out.
 
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I checked locally with a friend that is in the Auto Body Industry to see how much the Paint shops will charge; the consensus is around $600 for the two doors and that's assuming there is no rust to repair. This includes scuff existing paint, primer sealer, wet sand, paint and clear.
 
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Best I've found so far has been $450. A couple wouldn't do a small job like this
 
Jacket4256 said:
@Dunkut88TJ did some came out awesome, don't think he did a thread on his but I think they were posted in the, what did you do to your tj thread.
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Thanks for the props!! Don’t go to bare metal, the recommendation to me was it will create more work than it’s worth. I scuffed it up with 80 grit and hit any deep scratches to even them out. After, that I primed and painted. Here are some pictures, I may have them in my build thread where I dump stuff too. I used automotive touch up paint as well, it was wonderful. Worst part of the entire process was wet sanding the orange peel out from the clear coat
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Dunkut88TJ said:
Thanks for the props!! Don’t go to bare metal, the recommendation to me was it will create more work than it’s worth. I scuffed it up with 80 grit and hit any deep scratches to even them out. After, that I primed and painted. Here are some pictures, I may have them in my build thread where I dump stuff too. I used automotive touch up paint as well, it was wonderful. Worst part of the entire process was wet sanding the orange peel out from the clear coatView attachment 263938View attachment 263939View attachment 263940View attachment 263941
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Thanks...they look great! I hope I have the same success. What primer did you use and what grit for the wet sanding? Did you just wet sand after the last coat of clear or in between?
 
GeorgeB said:
Thanks...they look great! I hope I have the same success. What primer did you use and what grit for the wet sanding? Did you just wet sand after the last coat of clear or in between?
Click to expand...
I used automotive touch up primer and pretty much followed their Instructions to the T. Wet sanded with a 1500 and then to a 4000 for final touch. It’s not perfect, definitely not up close. But from 3+ feet they are beautiful and that was my goal. I still need to wax them and I will see the glossy potential
 
I would not use 80 grit. If the paint is in good shape, I would use no courser than 220, then finish with 320. Really you just need to dull the paint so to speak. You got to sand it so the clear loses its gloss finish and looks matte, that’s it. This could even be achieved using a scotch
rite pad.

Also I would use epoxy primer. Etching primer is for bare metal and honestly over the years etching primer is not as good as it once was. Epoxy is all I use for the most part now.

If you have an automotive paint store, they should be able to mix your color and put it in a spray can. The spray cans they use have a much better nozzle and you should be able to get really good results. The clearcoat can also be put in a spray can. The epoxy primer, im not sure if you can get in a spray can, as it’s a two part system. I know I heard rumors that they were going to be able too, I haven’t followed along as I have a spray booth and mix all my own paints.

Half door would be a good beginner project. They are small and can be laid flat to help with runs. Light coats are better than heavy coats, never start spraying on the part, always off the part then unto the part. Between coats you don’t need to let it dry for more then 20 mins. This is the same for the clear. It can be sprayed right after the paint. Unless you have issues in the paint that you want to sand out before the clear.

any other questions you may have I’m happy to help
 
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Superjay5 said:
I would not use 80 grit. If the paint is in good shape, I would use no courser than 220, then finish with 320. Really you just need to dull the paint so to speak. You got to sand it so the clear loses its gloss finish and looks matte, that’s it. This could even be achieved using a scotch
rite pad.

Also I would use epoxy primer. Etching primer is for bare metal and honestly over the years etching primer is not as good as it once was. Epoxy is all I use for the most part now.

If you have an automotive paint store, they should be able to mix your color and put it in a spray can. The spray cans they use have a much better nozzle and you should be able to get really good results. The clearcoat can also be put in a spray can. The epoxy primer, im not sure if you can get in a spray can, as it’s a two part system. I know I heard rumors that they were going to be able too, I haven’t followed along as I have a spray booth and mix all my own paints.

Half door would be a good beginner project. They are small and can be laid flat to help with runs. Light coats are better than heavy coats, never start spraying on the part, always off the part then unto the part. Between coats you don’t need to let it dry for more then 20 mins. This is the same for the clear. It can be sprayed right after the paint. Unless you have issues in the paint that you want to sand out before the clear.

any other questions you may have I’m happy to help
Click to expand...
Great info, thanks!
 
Superjay5 said:
I would not use 80 grit. If the paint is in good shape, I would use no courser than 220, then finish with 320. Really you just need to dull the paint so to speak. You got to sand it so the clear loses its gloss finish and looks matte, that’s it. This could even be achieved using a scotch
rite pad.

Also I would use epoxy primer. Etching primer is for bare metal and honestly over the years etching primer is not as good as it once was. Epoxy is all I use for the most part now.

If you have an automotive paint store, they should be able to mix your color and put it in a spray can. The spray cans they use have a much better nozzle and you should be able to get really good results. The clearcoat can also be put in a spray can. The epoxy primer, im not sure if you can get in a spray can, as it’s a two part system. I know I heard rumors that they were going to be able too, I haven’t followed along as I have a spray booth and mix all my own paints.

Half door would be a good beginner project. They are small and can be laid flat to help with runs. Light coats are better than heavy coats, never start spraying on the part, always off the part then unto the part. Between coats you don’t need to let it dry for more then 20 mins. This is the same for the clear. It can be sprayed right after the paint. Unless you have issues in the paint that you want to sand out before the clear.

any other questions you may have I’m happy to help
Click to expand...
Come to think of it I didn’t use 80 grit. Originally I was going to with a wheel and ended up just using 320 to scuff it all up. I used my paint and clear in rattle cans like you said and it turned out good
 
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Personally I would get them painted if you can afford it, you need a lot of patience to rattle can a good job, environment weather dust control and laborious prep work.
 
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