Smoke / coolant vapor coming from A/C vents

aussie TJ eagle

aussie TJ eagle

New Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Australia
G'day Jeepers.

Just bought my first Tj after owning 5 other (newer) jeeps and I couldn't be happier.

So excuse me if this has all been mentioned beofre, but I can't seem to find a straight answer...

It seems I have a type of vapour that smells like coolant tinkering out of my A/C vents inside the cabin. should I be worried?

Also, not sure if its a connected issue, Im getting condensation on the inside if the windscreen (especially in the centre) just above the dash vent..

any help would be appreciated! cheers guys!
 
Your heater core has given up the ghost...
Get ready for a long and painful dash removal.

You'll need to order a heater core. Might be worth replacing any other cooling system parts like hoses, radiator, water pump, etc if they're older.

If you need to keep driving it until you get parts and time, you can bypass it by popping the hoses off the heater core tubes in the engine compartment and connecting them to one another. A 5/8 to 3/4 barb connector and a couple of hose clamps is all it takes. You may need to top off coolant that has spilled or leaked out. Once the hoses are connected, I recommend sucking the coolant out of the heater core with a pump or shop vacuum so it doesn't all end up on the floor.

You would not have any heat and poor A/C temperature control until you fix the heater core, but you will have the most powerful A/C possible.

Do not simply plug or cap off the heater lines. There must be bypass flow to allow the engine to heat up uniformly until the thermostat opens.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MichaelGH
Steel City 06 said:
Your heater core has given up the ghost...
Get ready for a long and painful dash removal.

You'll need to order a heater core. Might be worth replacing any other cooling system parts like hoses, radiator, water pump, etc if they're older.

If you need to keep driving it until you get parts and time, you can bypass it by popping the hoses off the heater core tubes in the engine compartment and connecting them to one another. A 5/8 to 3/4 barb connector and a couple of hose clamps is all it takes. You may need to top off coolant that has spilled or leaked out. Once the hoses are connected, I recommend sucking the coolant out of the heater core with a pump or shop vacuum so it doesn't all end up on the floor.

You would not have any heat and poor A/C temperature control until you fix the heater core, but you will have the most powerful A/C possible.

Do not simply plug or cap off the heater lines. There must be bypass flow to allow the engine to heat up uniformly until the thermostat opens.
Click to expand...
Mate, you're a legend.... thanks so much for taking the time ! you think this Could also have somthing to do with the condensation on the windscreen (windshield) I think you call it in the US?
 
I would just bypass it like Steel city 06 said.
I have not used my heater yet and only used my A/C once to test it in the year I have had it but it depends where you live, if in Melbourne or Tassi you might want the heater? but windows open full with the hard top was good enough in Perth heat last summer.
 
aussie TJ eagle said:
Mate, you're a legend.... thanks so much for taking the time ! you think this Could also have somthing to do with the condensation on the windscreen (windshield) I think you call it in the US?
Click to expand...
Absolutely. A lot of the coolant, if it is hot, will flash to steam as it exits the heater core. The temperature of the water is next to boiling. Think of when you dump a near boiling pot of water into the sink. Technically it's not boiling but you get a lot of steam, which then condenses on the nearest surface that is cooler than itself, in this case your windscreen.

You definitely need to either replace or bypass the core shortly if you need to keep driving. 1st, you're losing coolant which could mean you end up stranded once the engine runs out of sufficient coolant to circulate through the radiator. (Drive in that condition and you will trash your engine.) 2nd, coolant vapor is hazardous to human health, and you should try to avoid breathing it.

If you have to continue driving before bypassing or replacing the heater core (I don't recommend it if you can avoid it), carry a couple gallons of prediluted coolant or water, don't use the HVAC, and open the windows.

Coolant is moderately toxic. Technically you should avoid getting it on your skin, and definitely avoid ingesting or inhaling it. If you do get it on your skin (it's usually inevitable when working on the coolant system), just wash with soap and water shortly after.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qslim
Same thing started happening to me, bypassed the heater core as shown. It has fixed the issue until I can be bothered to replace it.

20210526_181111.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fishtaco and qslim
Fishtaco said:
I would just bypass it like Steel city 06 said.
I have not used my heater yet and only used my A/C once to test it in the year I have had it but it depends where you live, if in Melbourne or Tassi you might want the heater? but windows open full with the hard top was good enough in Perth heat last summer.
Click to expand...
Cheers mate. All done ! Thanks heaps! I’m in Melbourne. I plan on getting a new heater core when I have a spare day up my sleeve as it’s currently my daily! Thanks again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fishtaco
Steel City 06 said:
Absolutely. A lot of the coolant, if it is hot, will flash to steam as it exits the heater core. The temperature of the water is next to boiling. Think of when you dump a near boiling pot of water into the sink. Technically it's not boiling but you get a lot of steam, which then condenses on the nearest surface that is cooler than itself, in this case your windscreen.

You definitely need to either replace or bypass the core shortly if you need to keep driving. 1st, you're losing coolant which could mean you end up stranded once the engine runs out of sufficient coolant to circulate through the radiator. (Drive in that condition and you will trash your engine.) 2nd, coolant vapor is hazardous to human health, and you should try to avoid breathing it.

If you have to continue driving before bypassing or replacing the heater core (I don't recommend it if you can avoid it), carry a couple gallons of prediluted coolant or water, don't use the HVAC, and open the windows.

Coolant is moderately toxic. Technically you should avoid getting it on your skin, and definitely avoid ingesting or inhaling it. If you do get it on your skin (it's usually inevitable when working on the coolant system), just wash with soap and water shortly after.
Click to expand...
Steel city 06. I can’t begin to thank you enough. I’ve done exactly “what I believe” you tile me. And everything seems just fine now. “ I haven’t driven it yet’ one more thing... I should of checker prior. But both heater hoses are really hot to touch while running.. ! I would assume that’s normal??

photos for you to check out my amateur work 🧐😂
Steel City 06 said:
Absolutely. A lot of the coolant, if it is hot, will flash to steam as it exits the heater core. The temperature of the water is next to boiling. Think of when you dump a near boiling pot of water into the sink. Technically it's not boiling but you get a lot of steam, which then condenses on the nearest surface that is cooler than itself, in this case your windscreen.

You definitely need to either replace or bypass the core shortly if you need to keep driving. 1st, you're losing coolant which could mean you end up stranded once the engine runs out of sufficient coolant to circulate through the radiator. (Drive in that condition and you will trash your engine.) 2nd, coolant vapor is hazardous to human health, and you should try to avoid breathing it.

If you have to continue driving before bypassing or replacing the heater core (I don't recommend it if you can avoid it), carry a couple gallons of prediluted coolant or water, don't use the HVAC, and open the windows.

Coolant is moderately toxic. Technically you should avoid getting it on your skin, and definitely avoid ingesting or inhaling it. If you do get it on your skin (it's usually inevitable when working on the coolant system), just wash with soap and water shortly after.
Click to expand...
EB8CD5B7-9AC1-4E7D-AEB5-14065583EA6F.jpeg
4CB21624-AD54-4EA1-AB69-CDDF9EA56ECF.jpeg
9F75E14C-C798-45AB-9E26-5DB9BAFAC156.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford and Steel City 06
That’s pretty much exactly what I was imagining. Only thing I might be wary of is that plastic fitting. It should be rated to at least 25 psi at 110C or higher. If it’s just a fitting for household water it may not be rated for that temp.

Completely normal for the hoses to be hot. Anytime the engine is spinning, the water pump is pushing coolant through the heater hoses. So if the engine is warm there will be hot (90-100C) coolant flowing through the heater hoses (and core, normally), so they will be very hot to the touch.

The fact they are hot is a good sign, as it means coolant is flowing through and you have bypass flow going through the engine.
 
Top Bottom
Back