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I have needed those several times other than just today!

One more little thing out of the way. I drilled and tapped the new bumper to reattach the old Savvy steering gear skid.

Removing the front crossmember tube eliminates the ability to run an Antirock or SwayLoc. I would argue that is a poor compromise in performance.

That would be the sane thing to do for improving the factory reverse lights.

As long as the polarity is correct and the amperage draw does not blow a fuse, then you can cram as many sockets in there as you want to.

It was a carbide lamp. I never got it burning correctly that night because I lost the nozzle as I unpacked it in the dark.

When it is the physical size of the tire creating enough compromises to the foundational build in order to make it fit and perform with some amount of adequacy, the problems being discussed are not about a tire being 2.5lbs too heavy.

With all the mentions of leverage being one of the notable issues with 37s on stock axles, how does a lighter weight tire reduce leverage?

How will you keep the ball joint yokes on the inner C's from stretching and the ball joints from falling out? That is something no one has figured out on the stock axles. And those who do not experience this as a problem aren't using the Jeep anywhere where anything matters.

One thing I learned over the years of navigating a manual through big rocks and ledges is that I stalled the engine less as the axle gearing got lower. Improved driving skill and better throttle foot control also played a role in my use of the hand throttle decreasing as a driving aid.

Are we about to have a dance off?

Not specifically because of a body lift. A cable shifter is useful as part of raising the belly skid which very often benefits from a body lift to allow shoving the transmission and transfer case higher up into the body. The lever arm off the transfer case points different directions depending...

I recognize a low quality bicycle shifter when I see one. 😉 Lever shifters have been friction front and indexed rear for decades and decades.

If one were to want a hand throttle made from a bicycle shifter, it would absolutely be a friction shifter that holds its position wherever you place it. This is not to be confused with an index shifter used for the rear derailer that has corresponding detents for each gear in the cassette.

You misunderstood his answer. He doesn't see the usefulness for a hand throttle. I generally agree.

You are describing a friction shifter used for the front derailer. I have never seen an instance where idle rpms weren't sufficient for winching.

People generally do it to even out the throttle response when rolling over rough ground. Beyond that, I do not see any real value of one once you figure out how to control your foot from bouncing. I almost exclusively used mine to increase the rpms for the York air compressor to fill tires...

I used a Mopar RMS because the one that was in the Jeep before lasted 150k miles.

If you can fill them to street pressure without the ring installed, then those are not beadlocks.

With the ring off, what is the tire psi?