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Brassworks seems to really pride themselves on building a product superior to the aluminum versions that are available. However, they fail to mention if their heater cores actually produce heat. I was optimistic to find them when I was shopping around. I didn't even mind the higher price tag...

Yes, I remember that thread, he was working on a 2006 model. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/read-this-before-replacing-your-heater-core-heat-not-blowing-hot.47253/ I wonder if anyone has opened up an OE early model core?

Ok. I was just going off of the conversation I had with the guy at the radiator shop. He told me there weren't any turbulators inside. It's possible he was mistaken though.

I found it interesting that my early model OE core doesn't have any turbulators inside. I'm curious if a brand new replacement version would have these or not?

I assume you mean plastic tanks? But yeah, that make sense. Interesting how Jeep's design methods evolved over the years. My 1998 model was built with a radiator that had plastic tanks but a heater core that was all copper and brass. Eventually Jeep changed the heater cores in 2002 over to...

An experienced repair shop can access the condition of the heater core and make a recommendation. I had similar concerns with mine, not sure if it was salvageable or not. Not all cores are worth repairing. But just because it's old doesn't mean it belongs in the trash pile.

Have you considered getting your existing core repaired?

You know what they say: Just Empty Every Pocket.

Is it courage you're lacking or something else? 😆 #Tire$

I just picked up my OE core from the repair shop. They found two small leaks and were able to repair them both. They also tested it for both pressure and flow. $95 later I'm back in business.

That looks like the perfect excuse to upgrade to the Currie drag link.

Wow! Looks like there's a fair amount of corrosion (greenish looking stuff) on those wires too.

Maybe, maybe not? I'd certainly be PREPARED to replace the panel with something new, but it may come apart ok for him. I just took everything apart on my '98 and was surprised that nothing broke on me. That being said, I took apart the same panel on my '99 Suburban last month. Ended up...

That Crown shaft is for the early models (1997-1999). Looks like @Ataxium has a 2006 model. Looks like the bearing itself is same though for the later models if that's what you were referring to.

That makes sense. Thanks.

I agree with the above ^^^. Try to find a manifold with a lifetime warranty. That way you're only out your time when you need to replace it again.

Is there an advantage to the braided strap over a heavy gauge wire? Could you just make your own replacement?

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Nutsert-Kits-87-95-Jeep-YJ-97-02-Jeep-TJ-and-03-06-Jeep-TJ_c79.htm

^^^This is a good plan. Sawzall between the cross member and the frame could work if you're able to loosen the skid first so that you're not cutting frame/ skid bracket across the entire cut. If you can see some daylight between the bracket and the frame then that means you'll only be cutting...

Here's some discussion on the topic. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/signs-of-a-bad-wheel-bearing.10768/