I know that, I was being sarcastic. I spent a year in Brisbane and a year in Perth, I even say ACCA DACCA play live in Fremantel, but ask someone for a Fosters and you're shunned.
The fill plug can be set in too far causing it to hit the locker. Like said above, either pull it or back it out a few turns and test it by jacking up both wheels and spinning them by hand..
I replaced all mine at 110,000 miles, including the axle u-joints, as preventive maintenance. I do it myself so it didn't cost much, only took a day, and now I have peace of mind on my long overlanding trips.
I don't see how a steering upgrade could cause wobble on only one side. The steering components control both sides equally. It either has to be a bent wheel (swap and see) or something in the knuckle or a ball joint.
If it increases with RPMs it's more likely a bad pulley or tensioner, but you can try tightening the manifold bolts which work themselves loose sometimes.
Do you need adjustable? How much lift do you have? If you have OEM now I would replace with some Crown replacements. OEM type arms offer the best flex.
My last TJ I drilled out the yoke and used u-bolts. Just make sure you drill the holes straight. The only problem you could run into is the threads my not go up the u-bolt far enough.
A 2" spring lift coupled wiith a 1.25" BL and a 1" MML will run 33s nicely. Install a rear track bar relocation bracket, a new adjustable front track bar, JKS front sway bar disconnects and send it. It will maintain stock driving feel and run 33s