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Same thing with mine. I just torqued it down as far as it would go. Five years later it hasn’t caused any problems.

Not for GMRS. The shorter the cable the better. Extra cable is just extra loss, although that loss can mask bad antenna VSWR.

It isn’t just the body. In these situations sometimes the engine decides to not stop moving also and breaks free of the engine mounts.

My other hobby (addiction?) is aviation. Since covid it has been a disaster. You don’t measure parts availability time in weeks, months or even years, but rather in the percentage of your remaining life.

It looks to me as though the fire may have started around the turbo. The air intake scoop is gone (that is where the hole in the hood is), the fender flare is melted, and the hood looks heat discolored aft of that. Admittedly, most of the fire damage is in the cabin but I am suspicious about...

No trouble with mine. Getting it into reverse can be difficult but it never pops out. I installed a B&M shifter and that really improved it.

Hmmm, sounds like the mechanic just wanted to get rid of you. Transfer case binding up? I would quicker think the double cardan joint on the front driveshaft is binding. That is a bad situation but a lot cheaper to fix than a “binding up” transfer case.

It is so easy and cheap to just replace the pump that I would do that first.

It doesn’t really sound like the belt idler or tensioner (to me at any rate) so I am guessing it is the OPDA. If it has been two or three months I would be worried about the condition of the cam.

How about the motor mounts? Is the rubber in good condition?

It appears the cracks may have originated at the drilled holes. Maybe that is another reason not to use drilled rotors.

What I want to know is how did you remove the welded nuts on the inside of the frame?

It looks like it might be a good choice. It is somewhat cheaper than the B&M and it appears to have the same bend in the lever as the OEM shifter. The B&M has a different bend than can cause interference with the body in 2nd, 4th, 6th and reverse gears. In my TJ with a small TC lift (about 1...

As I understand it, changes were made to the later NSG370 in the JKs that eliminated this problem. There is a youtube video somewhere that details what the changes were. If you get your transmission rebuilt these changes would be included. As for the transmission being fragile, I am not sure...

This is common with the NSG370 transmission. You’ve got a couple of options. 1) overhaul the transmission, or 2) install a B&M shifter.

I believe it is the vent line for your front differential.

Good thing you caught it when you did because if it had seized up it would probably have destroyed the TC.

I am betting it is the double Cardan on your front drive shaft or the one on the rear shaft if you have installed one.

I first saw the problem before I had the Turbo. I had just replaced the OEM cats with the Flowmaster. The later installation of the Turbo didn’t make it any worse. I have a 2 inch lift and have left the factory track bar in place. This positions the front axle about half an inch to the left...

I thought I had clearance too. But I didn’t. This was before I added any bumpstop spacers. Now I have about 3/4 inch spacers. I only have a 2 inch lift.