Search results

My up pipe is stock Banks. That won’t work with a skid plate that has a right side strut to the chassis. So my installation looks a whole lot different from yours. I’ll try to take a picture of it tomorrow. In addition to the up pipe, make sure your control arm does not hit the turbo oil return...

Good luck with that. I have Flowmaster cats and no matter how close I got them to the oil pan the drive shaft yoke still struck them. It just “re-formed” the pipes (both of them) slightly. On the other side, the upper Curry control arm also hit the pipe going to the Banks turbo inlet also...

Don’t remove the drive shaft. Just disconnect it at the pinion and tie it up out of the way. Just don’t engage 4wd.

I had this issue after replacing the universals in the front drive shaft. I then had the drive shaft rebalanced and that helped slightly. I finally threw in the towel and bought a new front drive shaft from Tom Woods. With that the problem went away completely.

They sure tried to trick you, didn’t they? It even has the Rubicon rocker guards.

I have a Banks turbo that yields more than an extra 100 hp at the wheels. The standard Luk clutch works just fine with it.

The idler and tensioner pulleys squeak whenever the engine is running. If you only hear it at 55-70 mph it is likely your double Cardan. You should get that checked out right away because if it seizes it can take out your transfer case and maybe more. You don’t have to remove the driveshaft...

If this is for real I would suggest grabbing one if you have a compatible model year. I have been running an intercooled banks turbo for about seven years now and it has performed flawlessly. It completely transforms the Jeep. I have had no problems with it whatsoever.

My 2006 Rubicon with 32s only gets about 10 mpg around town. Oh yeah, there is the turbo, and my right foot just can’t help itself :giggle:. On the road I get more like 14 mpg.

Wow, how you ever seen that before? It looks like at some time in its life a seized bearing cap was turning in the yoke wearing that tab down.

I believe the manual says set the pinion for zero and accept whatever caster that gives you. Of course that is for a stock Jeep and compromises may need to be made otherwise.

Your front pinion should be slightly up relative to the shaft, not down. This is opposite the situation on the rear pinion.

Wow, what a fire storm! Never thought something as innocuous as power windows and locks could raise so much emotion. But I’ll repeat, mine have been reliable and I like them. I have Molex connectors at the doors so they can be removed, admittedly rare occasion for me.

I installed Electric Life window winders and door locks several years ago. They have been trouble free. The standard location for the window switches is where the crank handles used to be but it is much preferable to mount them higher up and further forward so your knee doesn’t hit them.

This may be in San Jose, but given the rusted out fender and rocker panel this is likely not a California vehicle.

My observation? This site is a pretty good source of accurate information. Believe it here before you believe other “experts”.

The parts manual for your 2001 shows a double Cardan on the front drive shaft. Your off road and dealership guys are wrong.

The angles look fine to me. When is the last time you greased the centering ball in the double Cardan? I’ll bet that is what failed.

I had it too. It was on, off, on, off, just like you said. It went away when either the front or rear drive shaft was removed. I had the front drive shaft rebalanced and that improved it slightly. I finally replaced the front drive shaft with a new one from Tom Woods and the drone went away...