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I have a 2” wc gauge, if someone wants to test, I am willing to get another one and let them try. I am too busy to be able to get it done.

bypass the radiator cooler, not necessary if you have those temps. It adds a faster warm up but the heat is not really removed if the coolant temps are in the 210 range. I did on my 999 in the YJ, lowered temps 20 degrees or more, I grabbed an external cooler from an exploder from the salvage...

you can get the spreaders new, consider that, mine were rusty and frozen.

Your location limits your access to parts, find a used one, take a measuring tape and see if its close. The LH drive is a direct fit, I bet the RH would be similar just inverse. Good luck

OBD 1 vs OBD 2 from what I can tell, YJ was also different, I think yjs are a close to the OBD1, but not exactly the same PCM. @Wranglerfix might know about the details more

my stroker in the YJ was running 27 lb mustang injectors, its lean most of the time... so maybe someday when I get the LJ squared away, I can go back to the YJ and get it road worthy.

slackin on edit'n I see lol

so how many inches of WC is the high pressure area? String and tape could show air flow with the heater running, actual values of WC will indicate what is the actual pressure.

https://metrommp.com/air_cleaner_grommet_made_of_rubber_278_id_312_o_rp_300/

vibration where? do you feel it in the seat or steering wheel? if steering, I would be willing to say to look at it, if in the seat, not really in my experience.

Zumbrota said to send it back, they want to look at it. So I hope that this is the last one. Its not like I can screw this up, is a bolt in replacement with a new clutch and a known atlas that I had in another jeep. Everything worked great up until it didnt.

Anomimeter, probably 2-3” of w.c.

Boundary layer air is not as good with a flush intake, so probably not much pressure, add an intake that gets above the hood an inch and points forward, lots more air. Look at a p-51 radiator intake, in testing the flush mount flows less air that was the original design.

MMP gf22 metro moulded products, or something like that

Love that you have real numbers, not a lot but dollar for HP is cheap. Maybe a run without a filter and just a tube? with the hood up? and I also noticed that you have the old log manifold, maybe test the equal flow manifold from a 2000 on up?

simple physics, 25-30 percent power = same amount of extra heat. I love my stroker, made a difference in climbing hills on the highway.

the lifters are almost all made by one company, then put in boxes for what ever company, I had the problem with a cam in 99 in a 258. I love my stroker I built in 2008, it does make about 30% more heat too that needs to be shed in the radiator. I think its johnson tool or something like that...

Oh and a rear main seal? That needs to go on the list. The yota headlights are crazy bright with the 90/130 watt hella bulbs

Call zumbrota and ask? Put on 100 miles, just a dirt road and a 2 lane highway. Did get 11.7 mpg and that’s ok since the roads were in mountains

Need to figure out the pinion angle, right now at 0.1, maybe tilt down more to .5-1.0 degrees. Don’t think it’s the front, didn’t feel it in the steering wheel. Vibration is significantly higher at 50-55 mph. Right front tire needs balancing too. A few more bugs and maybe I can try highway...