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Do I get to take the Jeep packed to the top with stuff, or do I go naked like the Terminator?

I have the JKS front bar and a rear relocation bracket on a 2.5" lift. No issues with clearances or rubbing. I like it and it was not too expensive. Lots of fire roads and and dirt trails with no complaints.

That picture really makes me appreciate being on the west coast where winters don't actively try to destroy my cars...... Replacing the hinges is pretty easy except for getting the torx out can be a real bear. I used an impact driver when I did it last (the kind you hit with a hammer not the...

Yes, I think the hinge stop is probably broken. This is full swing on my tailgate: If you look carefully at the back of the upper (and probably lower) hinge you can see a flared spot that will act as a stop when fully open.

Nope, that there is one of the very rare V6 models. Says so right there with the V6 badge (that I am 90% sure is a Honda badge)

The nozzle seems fine., I have done several other prints with it, but I do keep a couple spare on hand. The real bummer was the cost of the filament and I only had one spool of it. I was printing real slow with the PAHT-CF to try to avoid warping and after about 10 hours of printing that...

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/who-makes-quality-zip-ties.81610/post-1669446 I ordered a bag of 50 off eBay because I needed 4 and my OCD kicked in. They worked just fine. If you need a few I can mail you some. That goes for @mrblaine too.

Speaking of zip ties, I needed 4 of the ones that attach to the studs on the firewall. I had to order a bag of 50. If you need a couple hit me up. These are the ones I got...

Needed to mount a fuse and distribution block for some electrical expansion and decided to print a plate that would fit on the unused spot on the drivers side against the firewall (this may be a spot used for the clutch stuff on manuals? I don't know). I used PAHT-CF so it should be plenty...

Finally (maybe), I am also designing/printing a plate that will mount to the screw holes on the side of the console that held the subwoofer that I will attach my GMRS radio to.

The whole center console is kind of getting revamped. The nutcerts in the floor that hold the back of the console started to spin so I had to drill them out and replace them, and had to use a much larger nutcert to fill the hole left in the floor. Also, getting the nuts out mangled the rear...

I am currently working on replacing the center console bin with something larger (and that does not have cassette tape slots) since I removed my factory sub. Trying to get the top to be a perfect fit to the armrest top has taken quite a few revisions, but I am getting there. Once I get the top...

I printed a storage bin for my reaction rods to keep them from rolling around.

First time I have heard of them. I have been needing rocker guards, and GenRight seemed like the best option, but the Floxor stuff looks interesting.....

Do I dare get my hopes up?

Yep, that is what I ended up doing. I was thinking there would be an elegant way to do it (and there probably is), but after messing with it way too long I just went TinkerCAD on it's ass.

OK design Gods, I am trying to re-make the bin in the center console to make better use of the space in the console (by making a bigger bin) since I have removed my sub. How the heck do you create the dip at the front in Fusion? I am still learning Fusion and I think this one has me beat for...

I installed it in April and probably have 3k mines on it. I used to use them all the time years ago with very good results, but it looks like they moved production to china a few years ago so YMMV. I have had good results with this one so far though.

I went with one from DB Electrical and have found it to be very good. https://www.dbelectrical.com/alternators/

I did a flush last week after replacing all the hoses. It looked pretty similar to yours. I did not use a descaller and did three flushes with distilled water and not pulling the plug on the block.