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Well, a couple years ago I replaced my front stabilizer bar bushings with greaseable poly bushings and aluminum stops. The stabilizer was pretty rusted under the rubber bushings, so I cleaned it up a little and called it good enough. Well, now it’s a pretty sloppy fit and I’m looking to...

It’s clear the frame was given a rattle can paint job (overspray on the underside body mounts), but the frame rails look pretty good. I had to repair rusted out frame rails on my 2000. I did note a drain hole in the bottom of the frame rail, something my 2000 was missing. Front suspension...

It usually depends on how much and what type of lift is on the suspension system and wether or not you have a slip yoke eliminator on your transfer case.

I built a bracket to hold my third brake light and a pair of lights. Now, not wanting to blind anyone in parking lots so I wired in a relay to supply power to them. I spliced into the factory back up lights to provide a switched power source to trigger the relay. It doesn’t matter what type...

I have a 2000 TJ with 4.0L 5-speed, came with 30 - 9.50 X 15 and I have been will over 100,000 miles on 32 - 11.50 X 15’s without any issues, stock 3.73 gears.

My 2000, 4.0L 5-Speed came stock with 3.73 gears.

FYI, I’ve put all 216,000 miles on my 2000 and 1st to 2nd has never shifted that great, and when 3rd to 2nd started grinding gears, I switched to Redline MTL and it shifts must beet now.

Have your compression checked, my guess would be head gasket. My 2000 had a failed head gasket between cylinders 3 and 4. I found it when those 2 cylinders low on a compression test. The only symptom was low power on a hill!

How are your shocks...the upper mounting bolts are know to be a problem.

I have both front and rear bumpers, trail rack, and their rock sliders on my 2000. Seem to be pretty sturdy, I drilled a hole in the rear bumper for a trailer connector and it was nice thick steel. All items mounted well. I have one small spot on the front bumper (4 years old) where the...

I have the 5-speed in a 2000, I was able to pull the shifter boots and use a die grinder to trim the body on the back side to provide more clearance.

No, but it looks exactly like the smttybilt! It’s well built and attached to the frame with 6 1/2”-13 grade 8 bolts. It the bumper has d-ring attachments capable of recovering the jeep, it can hold up flat towing loads.

I have a Smittybilt tow bar designed to attach to d-rings, towed mine a couple times with it...no problem. I actually used a hitch haul I have on the back of the Jeep for lights since I outfitted it with LED trailer lights, just used a 25’ trailer extension cable and routed it through the jeep...

Rottted frame repair followed closely by rear shocks!

I had to try a couple different brands of LED bulbs to finally get front, rear, and front side lights to work. Still have issues with the front side lights, only flash IF the lights already on.

I‘ve always wanted to restore/build a late 50’s early 60’s Willy’s step side pickup.

Think about drilling a hole in the bottom of the frame rails near the rear control arms. As is, water will still pool in frame.

Had always used the Mopar in my NV3550 but it developed a sticky synchro and would grind when downshifting into 2nd gear. Replaced the fluid with Redline MTL, and within a few miles of driving, it was shifting smooth in all gears, in both directions. Definitely better than a transmission rebuild.

Not sure this was posted, I have an early 2000 TJ I purchased in December 1999, contrary to this chart, some early 2000 6-cylinders may only have 2 sensors, upstream/downstream of the catalytic converter.