1998 TJ vs 2003 TJ

[afaller]

I am in the market for a TJ and very torn between 2 different options. Looking for opinions on which would be the better buy.

Option 1: 1998 Sahara with manual transmission 185k miles. Rust free, new front suspension, new freeze plugs, and new head gaskets. Asking $9500

Option 2: 2003 Sport Automatic transmission 150k miles. Rust free, new bed rug flooring, 4 inch lift, aluminum wrapped tie rods, 35 inch tires, snorkel, rock lights(under glow). Check engine light is on with codes P0944, P0841, P1494. Asking $13000

The 2003 is more appealing to the eye, however my concerns are with the automatic transmission.

 

[P man]

Option 1

 

[GPK03X]

Option #3 keep looking

 

[CowboyTJ]

I agree with GPK..keep looking.

 

[CowboyTJ]

P.S What do you want it for? A good all around 4X4 or something to show off in?

 

[macleanflood]

What lift on the 2003? SYE? Body lift? Motor mount lift.

No Jeep is perfect...I'd see if they can get the price down.

Pictures? Rust?

-Mac

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[SkylinesSuck]

I'm not saying get either of them, but buy one with the transmission you want. All the other crap is easy to install compared to swapping tranny's.

 

[TheBoogieman]

I'd take the 03' for $10,500 tops, if they fix the codes first.
p.s. Market prices recently have dropped faster than Kamala's public speaking poles. The wrestler, not the VP

 

[macleanflood]

They'll "fix" the codes buying non-Mopar crap to send it down the road. And they'll fire the parts canon at it and replace a bunch of perfectly fine Mopar sensors. Some of which you can't get any more. I spent a year chasing misfire codes on my Jeep...it became obvious the PO tried to "fix" it before selling.

I'd take the 03' for $10,500 tops, if they fix the codes first.

 

[TheBoogieman]

They'll "fix" the codes buying non-Mopar crap to send it down the road. And they'll fire the parts canon at it and replace a bunch of perfectly fine Mopar sensors. Some of which you can't get any more. I spent a year chasing misfire codes on my Jeep...it became obvious the PO tried to "fix" it before selling.

You assume they want to spend the money for cheap parts. Remove the instrument cluster and pull the check engine bulb is more cost effective. That's why I bring my code reader whenever I buy any vehicle. I bought my wife a KJ and everything worked fine and no check engine light. Scanner said generic PO600 transmission code. I bought it anyway, because she really wanted it (birthday present) and it lasted 3 years before the trans went out with a 5 minute warning. I talked her into a more reliable WJ this time.

 

[macleanflood]

You assume they want to spend the money for cheap parts.

Agreed. I personally like a vehicle with some codes. One...they probably didn't do any hinky sh!t to it yet trying to fix it (or spent the last two years chasing it and failed and said f@ck it lets sell this pile.) Two...gives you something to negotiate down the price. And three...it's a twenty year old vehicle and I typically fire the parts canon at any new to me vehicle that I don't have a maintenance history on and intend on driving to places with no cell service.

When we bought my wife's JK the speedo was off because the PO put 18s and 35s on the Jeep. After purchasing the vehicle I used JScan and a Bluetooth ODB to fix it in the parking lot...the PO was amazed it was that easy. And that probably means the 150k mile Jeep is more like 100 or 120.

-Mac

 

[StoneCold]

I agree with the above...what do you want it for? And keep looking.....!!

But I don't know anything....

 

[TheBoogieman]

Agreed. I personally like a vehicle with some codes. One...they probably didn't do any hinky sh!t to it yet trying to fix it (or spent the last two years chasing it and failed and said f@ck it lets sell this pile.) Two...gives you something to negotiate down the price. And three...it's a twenty year old vehicle and I typically fire the parts canon at any new to me vehicle that I don't have a maintenance history on and intend on driving to places with no cell service.

When we bought my wife's JK the speedo was off because the PO put 18s and 35s on the Jeep. After purchasing the vehicle I used JScan and a Bluetooth ODB to fix it in the parking lot...the PO was amazed it was that easy. And that probably means the 150k mile Jeep is more like 100 or 120.

-Mac

Same here. I bought my 03' Sahara and the PO was asking $9500. I drove it and pointed out it drove like shit (RC old style shocks) It couldn't be kept in one lane on the road (dropped pitman arm) and the AC only worked on high (resistor). He said his mechanic wanted $500 to fix the AC issue alone. I told my wife exactly why it was undriveable, talked him down $2,000 ($7500) and bought it. Fixed all issues for $250. I still miss that Jeep.

 

[RangerTJ]

Seeing that option #2 has 35 inch tires and the auto trans, has it been re-geared?

If not I would imagine it's truly a dog to drive.

Plus as mentioned, lots of questions pertaining to the 4 inch lift, the biggest one being if it was done right or done on the cheap.

Because the cheap option will turn out to not be very cheap.

Biggest question: Does either of them have an Angry Birds grill? If so, pass on that one

 

[TheBoogieman]

Biggest question: Does either of them have an Angry Birds grill? If so, pass on that one

You sir, hit the nail on the head. Nothing else matters.
p.s. I actually look for Jeeps with angry bird grilles and chrome twin tube bumpers. It's the only real way to know that the Jeep was NEVER taken offroad.

 

[afaller]

I

What lift on the 2003? SYE? Body lift? Motor mount lift.

No Jeep is perfect...I'd see if they can get the price down.

Pictures? Rust?

-Mac

I only have some photos. They are both pretty set on price.

 

[afaller]

P.S What do you want it for? A good all around 4X4 or something to show off in?

Just to daily drive!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I'd definitely take the 2003 with the automatic. There's not a thing wrong with its 42RLE automatic, you just have to make sure the axles are geared properly for the size tires you want to run. I'm perfectly happy with my 2004's 42RLE automatic after regearing my axles to 5.38 for my 35" tires. And make no mistake, the tougher the trail the better choice an automatic transmission is. Automatics give significantly more low-end torque, as in 2-3X more plus its torque converter gives what is in effect an infinitely low 1st gear ratio for crawling up really tough/steep obstacles. Both of which are significant reasons why experienced rock crawlers have settled on automatics.

 

[YonderNorthwest]

I'd definitely take the 2003 with the automatic. There's not a thing wrong with its 42RLE automatic, you just have to make sure the axles are geared properly for the size tires you want to run. I'm perfectly happy with my 2004's 42RLE automatic after regearing my axles to 5.38 for my 35" tires. And make no mistake, the tougher the trail the better choice an automatic transmission is. Automatics give significantly more low-end torque, as in 2-3X more plus its torque converter gives what is in effect an infinitely low 1st gear ratio for crawling up really tough/steep obstacles. Both of which are significant reasons why experienced rock crawlers have settled on automatics.

Good points. But keep in mind he wants to daily this, and regearing to 5.38s is no cheap endeavor. My pick would be the stock height rig that won't need regearing or potentially any suspension work/rework.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Good points. But keep in mind he wants to daily this, and regearing to 5.38s is no cheap endeavor. My pick would be the stock height rig that won't need regearing or potentially any suspension work/rework.

Going into it with his eyes open is all we can help him do. For many regearing to 5.38 is no big deal when knowing an automatic is often, by far, the better choice. I actually converted my first TJ from its original manual to an automatic.