1999 Jeep Wrangler SE TJ frame paint

Mikebartusmc

Mikebartusmc

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Hello all
I will be sanding and painting my wrangler frame this summer, pretty rusty
Q. Whats the best frame spray paint for my 99 TJ?

Sincerely
mike
 
Mikebartusmc said:
Hello all
I will be sanding and painting my wrangler frame this summer, pretty rusty
Q. Whats the best frame spray paint for my 99 TJ?

Sincerely
mike
Click to expand...

I used Krylon Rust Tough Flat Black. Wire wheeled it down, used a rusty metal primer, then used the Krylon. You want flat black because anything glossy is gonna look dumb and show imperfections (which you will have from pitting due to frame rust). Taking out the wheel liners helps.

What's mostly important is the internals; where drain holes, getting the junk out, and internal frame coating all come into play. I've seen people attach 4-5" of chain to an auger and let it rip on a drill to break up the rust flakes and fish it out by the control arms or just behind the skid.
 
7190A1B5-1C6F-49D1-A7AC-64E255C485BF.jpeg


I used this after @mrblaine suggestion for paint. The semi flat looks very factory to me, and it doesn’t catch and hold a lot of dust etc.

I didn’t have a serious issue with rust, but some face spots. I hit it all with a wire wheel or a flap sanding wheel and got to metal where needed.

I didn’t prime, can says straight to metal, so I went with that, not criticizing priming, I just didn’t see the necessity for me.
 
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cpwolf said:
View attachment 511255

I used this after @mrblaine suggestion for paint. The semi flat looks very factory to me, and it doesn’t catch and hold a lot of dust etc.

I didn’t have a serious issue with rust, but some face spots. I hit it all with a wire wheel or a flap sanding wheel and got to metal where needed.

I didn’t prime, can says straight to metal, so I went with that, not criticizing priming, I just didn’t see the necessity for me.
Click to expand...

Sadly, they have changed the formulation and how it sprays. It used to be very forgiving, difficult to cause runs and you had to almost intentionally work to screw it up. Now, it is touchy, has to be sprayed from about 18" away to even begin to slow down runs, it doesn't stick to bare shiny metal nearly as well, and it has a slightly higher gloss level than the previous stuff. It is still pretty close, but not nearly as good as it used to be.

If anyone finds or knows of a good primer, I'm all ears. The oft touted Rustoleum self etching stuff is terrible.
 
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cooper32 said:
I used Krylon Rust Tough Flat Black. Wire wheeled it down, used a rusty metal primer, then used the Krylon. You want flat black because anything glossy is gonna look dumb and show imperfections (which you will have from pitting due to frame rust). Taking out the wheel liners helps.

What's mostly important is the internals; where drain holes, getting the junk out, and internal frame coating all come into play. I've seen people attach 4-5" of chain to an auger and let it rip on a drill to break up the rust flakes and fish it out by the control arms or just behind the skid.
Click to expand...

It may matter to some but any of the flat finishes really hold dirt and dust.
 
mrblaine said:
Sadly, they have changed the formulation and how it sprays. It used to be very forgiving, difficult to cause runs and you had to almost intentionally work to screw it up. Now, it is touchy, has to be sprayed from about 18" away to even begin to slow down runs, it doesn't stick to bare shiny metal nearly as well, and it has a slightly higher gloss level than the previous stuff. It is still pretty close, but not nearly as good as it used to be.

If anyone finds or knows of a good primer, I'm all ears. The oft touted Rustoleum self etching stuff is terrible.
Click to expand...

I do not comprehend people reworking good products, very frustrating.

I wonder if the Krylon primer is any good. I think I have 2 old cans of the paint left and only really need to paint the Savvy engine skid, not that it’s needed, but it’s mostly all black under there now. So I might not need to find a primer.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
mrblaine said:
Sadly, they have changed the formulation and how it sprays. It used to be very forgiving, difficult to cause runs and you had to almost intentionally work to screw it up. Now, it is touchy, has to be sprayed from about 18" away to even begin to slow down runs, it doesn't stick to bare shiny metal nearly as well, and it has a slightly higher gloss level than the previous stuff. It is still pretty close, but not nearly as good as it used to be.

If anyone finds or knows of a good primer, I'm all ears. The oft touted Rustoleum self etching stuff is terrible.
Click to expand...

Has anyone tried the flat black? i was wondering if the shine would be closer to the original formula mrblaine was referring to?
 
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