2.5L spark plug replacement: pull the compressor?

[jrmcafee]

After going through YouTube and 10 pages of historic posts here, there doesn’t seem to be a ton written about changing the plugs on the 2.5L. Mine is the 1998 so it’s a distributor and wires, and the first plug is located behind the compressor. The only video I’ve found on YT shows it’s sort of possible to remove that first plug using a hinged socket, but I thought I’d lean on the collective experience here.

How do other 2.5 owners change their plugs? I have a misfire issue and I’m hoping the plug change will resolve it. I’ve already cleaned the IAC and would hope to not have to replace the o2 right now. Thanks in advance for the ideas.

 

[Wildman]

This is what I used to get the spark plug out. You don't have to remove the A/C compressor.

Amazon.com: Grey Pneumatic 1020RI Spark Plug Socket Insert: Automotive

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Yep use a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench with an extension and a wobble-joint to get to that spark plug. My '97 had the same issue and that combination worked fine.

 

[jrmcafee]

@Jerry Bransford @Wildman much appreciated. I’ll go that route.

 

[Wildman]

@Jerry Bransford @Wildman much appreciated. I’ll go that route.

When you go to reinstall the new spark plug make sure you screw it in by hand to start with. I use a piece of hose that I can slip over the spark plug because the hose will slip before cross threading the plug. If you use the socket just make sure you screw it in a few turns before putting a ratchet on it.

 

[oldtimer]

I loosen my compressor and remove three bolts and let it pivot on the fourth. In my opinion that is the easiest.

 

[jrmcafee]

I loosen my compressor and remove three bolts and let it pivot on the fourth. In my opinion that is the easiest.

That’s a good idea.

 

[jrmcafee]

Yep use a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench with an extension and a wobble-joint to get to that spark plug. My '97 had the same issue and that combination worked fine.

I got one this morning and swapping the plugs was a breeze. It was honestly more work getting the wire boot off #4 than it was getting the plug out and back in. Hopefully the dielectric grease will help to fix that the next time around.

I’m still getting a pretty strong heave/surge while idling until the vehicle warms up a bit. Seems like if I let it cycle through this surging for 2-3 minutes it evens out and runs pretty smooth. I’ve cleaned the IAC spraying cleaner in the inlet while it’s running. Does it seem like I need to pull the TB off and do a full clean/replace the IAC or possibly something else? Fuel injectors?

The weather is pretty cold for TN. Approx.15-30 degrees the past week. Not sure if that’s a contributing factor on these models.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

My bet is your IAC is clean enough being cleaned as you did to remove it from the list of possibilities. I doubt it's caused by the TB either. Hard to say... maybe a bad Throttle Position Sensor or maybe even a bad IAT sensor. If you decide to replace a sensor, avoid the cheap store brands like Duralast from Autozone.

 

[Paparock1]

I have the 2.5. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks, just from your explanation sounds like once something is warm it seals up or closes ETC.
I would replace the up stream O2 sensor. I was surprised to see how much better my Jeep ran after doing so. Only use NTG sensors.

My Throttle position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago. the jeep started to idle odd but it would do it even after warming up. Any time I came to a stop it would stay at 2000 rpms. What was weird was that I could tap the gas peddle quickly and the idle would then come down. Finally it threw a code that pointed right to the TPS.

Cheers

 

[jrmcafee]

I have the 2.5. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks, just from your explanation sounds like once something is warm it seals up or closes ETC.
I would replace the up stream O2 sensor. I was surprised to see how much better my Jeep ran after doing so. Only use NTG sensors.

My Throttle position sensor went out on me a few weeks ago. the jeep started to idle odd but it would do it even after warming up. Any time I came to a stop it would stay at 2000 rpms. What was weird was that I could tap the gas peddle quickly and the idle would then come down. Finally it threw a code that pointed right to the TPS.

Cheers

Huge help. Thank you. I was hoping to avoid doing the o2 but given what you’ve shared I assume that could be the case. I have a clear exhaust leak but I haven’t investigated where it’s coming from.

 

[Paparock1]

I hope that helps

after weighting all the possible exhaust replacement options, I went with Banks header. For nothing more than their 5 year warranty. I hope I do not need to use it though. I have had it installed almost a year and no issues. It is a bit more $ though.

 

[jrmcafee]

So I unplugged the harness for the upstream O2 and eliminated the crank issue and the surging (good), but any pressure on the throttle causes it to bog and stall.

TPS? O2 and TPS? Something else?

 

[TJ4Jim]

Possible the Cat is on it's way out as bogging and stalling is a common symptom

So I unplugged the harness for the upstream O2 and eliminated the crank issue and the surging (good), but any pressure on the throttle causes it to bog and stall.

TPS? O2 and TPS? Something else?

 

[jrmcafee]

Possible the Cat is on it's way out as bogging and stalling is a common symptom

Was planning to take it to a muffler shop eventually anyway so if that’s the case I suppose that’s fine. Any way to avoid towing it?

 

[TJ4Jim]

Was planning to take it to a muffler shop eventually anyway so if that’s the case I suppose that’s fine. Any way to avoid towing it?

Try removing the upstream O2 sensor and leaving it out.

 

[jrmcafee]

Here’s a video to help describe what it’s doing currently.

The CEL is because I unplugged the upstream O2.

 

[tr21triton]

I got one this morning and swapping the plugs was a breeze. It was honestly more work getting the wire boot off #4 than it was getting the plug out and back in. Hopefully the dielectric grease will help to fix that the next time around.

they do make pliers that makes this easy.

Lisle 51410 Offset Spark Plug Boot Removal Plier​

 

[RAC02]

I’m having a hard time removing the same spark plug. It seems to not turn at all?? How much force should I apply? I’m afraid of cracking the head or breaking the spark plug.

 

[Wildman]

I’m having a hard time removing the same spark plug. It seems to not turn at all?? How much force should I apply? I’m afraid of cracking the head or breaking the spark plug.

It can take a little force sometimes to break it free. What type of socket setup are you using? Make sure that the socket is all the way on the sparkplug.

Edit: Make sure that you are using a proper sparkplug socket as they have a insert in them to hold the plug which cuts down on the chance of breaking it.