2 inch lift questions and comments

D M

D M

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Im trying to make a really solid 2" custom lift for highlines (later) and 33s, not looking to skip any parts that I will need. Heres what im going with currently

-Rancho RS5000x
-OME Heavy Duty 2" Rear Springs #2942
-OME Heavy Duty 2" Front Springs #2933- (Are these both the heavy duty ones, it doesn't tell me which and I don't know what part # is the heavy duty)
-1 Inch Body lift by M.O.R.E.
-1 Inch Motor Mount Lift by JKS(this and body lift are for tummy tuck, just figured id include them)
-Rear Adjustable Track bar by JKS
-I currently have front sway bar disconnects but I don't know the brand, the previous owner put them on along with a -3" skyjacker lift so I assume its skyjacker
-Savvy transfer case linkage
EDIT: I also plan to go with the rancho rs5000 steering stabilizer
Also a JB conversions ss sye 1310 with cv yolk, and tom woods driveshaft for tummy tuck

-Do I need upper or lower control arms? and what about sway bar links?
Please let me know what you guys think and if you would change anything :)
 
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If you do the adjustable track bar does it eliminate the need for a trackbar relocation bracket? You may need to add a shifter cable and figure out your gas take fill line.
 
InOmaha said:
If you do the adjustable track bar does it eliminate the need for a trackbar relocation bracket? You may need to add a shifter cable and figure out your gas take fill line.
Click to expand...
I do believe it eliminates the need for a trackbar relocation bracket, I hear that the adjustable is better than a relocation. And are you talking about the transfer case shifter cable? If so i have already planned on the one from savvy for about $150
 
Some good info on selecting OME springs: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ome-hd-springs-choices-2934-2949-or-2933-2942.13005/

If you don’t already have an adjustable front track bar, you’ll want one.

You don’t need new control arms unless you’re also installing a DC drive shaft.

InOmaha said:
If you do the adjustable track bar does it eliminate the need for a trackbar relocation bracket?
Click to expand...
Possibly. There are two kinds of rear track bar relocation brackets. One type, like the OME bracket, just moves the attachment point up to compensate for axle position after a lift. The other type, like the JKS bracket, also angles the attachment point to compensate for the axle rotation when you have a DC drive shaft.

if you’re installing a DC drive shaft, you still need a track bar relocation bracket. With a stock drive shaft, you can use an adjustable track bar without a relocation bracket.
 
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You may want to step the 1" BL up to a 1.25" if you plan on running a flat belly skid such as the UCF down the line. (savvy is out of production for early model manuals)
 
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DylanM345 said:
I plan to do OME heavy duty for both, so 2942 in the rear and 2933 in the front?
Click to expand...

Yes. I've been running that spring combo for 10 years.
Your front axle will be slightly off center, maybe 1/2" at most. Won't hurt anything unless you're OCD, then a adjustable TB will be needed up front.
 
fuse said:
Some good info on selecting OME springs: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ome-hd-springs-choices-2934-2949-or-2933-2942.13005/

If you don’t already have an adjustable front track bar, you’ll want one.

You don’t need new control arms unless you’re also installing a DC drive shaft.


Possibly. There are two kinds of rear track bar relocation brackets. One type, like the OME bracket, just moves the attachment point up to compensate for axle position after a lift. The other type, like the JKS bracket, also angles the attachment point to compensate for the axle rotation when you have a DC drive shaft.

if you’re installing a DC drive shaft, you still need a track bar relocation bracket. With a stock drive shaft, you can use an adjustable track bar without a relocation bracket.
Click to expand...
I forgot to add that I will be doing a jb conversions ss sye 1310 with cv yolk and then a custom driveshaft from tom woods. So ill need a front and rear adjustable track bar along with front and rear relocation brackets?
 
DylanM345 said:
I forgot to add that I will be doing a jb conversions ss sye 1310 with cv yolk and then a custom driveshaft from tom woods. So ill need a front and rear adjustable track bar along with front and rear relocation brackets?
Click to expand...
Don’t do a track bar bracket in the front. As @bobthetj03 says, you can get by without the adjustable track bar if you’re ok with the axle being a little off center. Otherwise, get an adjustable front track bar.
 
DylanM345 said:
I forgot to add that I will be doing a jb conversions ss sye 1310 with cv yolk and then a custom driveshaft from tom woods. So ill need a front and rear adjustable track bar along with front and rear relocation brackets?
Click to expand...

If that is the case, you'll need rear adjustable control arms and the angled rear TB relocation bracket so you can adjust the pinion angle after the SYE.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
If that is the case, you'll need rear adjustable control arms and the angled rear TB relocation bracket so you can adjust the pinion angle after the SYE.
Click to expand...
so would i get a track bar relocation bracket and an adjustable one too?
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Yes, you need the angled relocation bracket as well as an adjustable TB, otherwise you'll have a tough time getting the TB clear the gas tank skid.
Click to expand...
So rear control arms, rear adjustable track bar, and rear track bar relocation brackets. Nothing in the front?
 
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I believe I still have a RE front TB sitting in my garage from @tomtaylz LJR before he swapped to a currie. I'm sure he will let it go fairly cheap if you're interested.
 
I have Metal Cloak arms on my rig, but many on here like Currie/Savvy arms with Johnny joints. Rancho has an interesting offering with their D2 bushings, so that might be something you could check out.
 
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If you plan on doing all the work yourself I would highly recommend buying double adjustable arms. It saves so much time during the fine-tuning stage. Like @bobthetj03 I have MC arms and they have performed great. (less than 5k miles on them).

Do you have a price in mind? Do you plan on flexing a lot on a trail or is it mainly for road use?
 
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Alex01 said:
If you plan on doing all the work yourself I would highly recommend buying double adjustable arms. It saves so much time during the fine-tuning stage. Like @bobthetj03 I have MC arms and they have performed great. (less than 5k miles on them).

Do you have a price in mind? Do you plan on flexing a lot on a trail or is it mainly for road use?
Click to expand...
Nothing absurdly expensive, I am a 17 year old in high school so $ comes by slow from work. I do offroad it, not just all show and no go. Im just planning the parts I would need for a perfect 2 in" custom lift
 
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