2000 TJ rear main seal

Bigmac

Bigmac

Rather be in 29 palms.
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Oklahoma, USA
Has anyone replaced the RMS specifically on a 2000? I've seen some conflicting info on the style of RMS used and mention of a mid year model change. Am I going to need the early model seal with the legs or the later year without?

Factory service manual for 2000 shows the legs on the RMS but no specific part number since all seals are included in a group.
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I had a shop do my 2000. $700 using oe parts. No one mentioned any issue. But the parts guy used to work for the local jeep dealer.
 
WSS said:
I had a shop do my 2000. $700 using oe parts. No one mentioned any issue. But the parts guy used to work for the local jeep dealer.
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700 dollars! I like using MOPAR parts when I can but Ill DIY and stick with the Felpro on this one!
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Is it leaking? How bad? Are you using a synthetic or conventional engine oil?
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It is, has been for a while. I'm using synthetic but I'm finally going to jump ship to the conventional oil this time around.

after stopping in the parts store yesterday it seems like finding conventional oil is getting tougher to do. The only conventional they had was penzoil 10w30.

Not sure how much the brand really matters but damn it would be nice to at least compare options.
 
additionally its leaking ATF from somewhere... not sure if the 32rh or the 241. pulled my skid the other day to get after it and its EVERYWHERE. thing is when i clean everything up and put cardboard down I get no drips. I think it must be only on certain angles or while driving. Makes it harder to diagnose.
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Try switching to a High Mileage conventional before replacing the RMS, odds are very good it will not only stop the leak but restore the RMS back to good operating condition. Many synthetics tend to dry out seals like the RMS.

The brand of High Mileage (!!!) conventional engine oil doesn't matter but do take the time to find one that says High Mileage on it. And make sure it's not a synthetic.

I had a bad (!) RMS seal on my BMW and when I discovered the replacement cost was up near $2k I went searching for other fixes. I got lots of recommendations to switch to a high mileage conventional and it did indeed cure the leak in about a week of daily driving.
 
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pictures don't really do it justice but between the engine oil, the ATF, and the dirt, it was quite a chore to clean the skid up, probably had a 1/16 of an inch of thick crud built up.

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Jerry Bransford said:
Try switching to a High Mileage conventional before replacing the RMS, odds are very good it will not only stop the leak but restore the RMS back to good operating condition. Many synthetics tend to dry out seals like the RMS.

The brand of High Mileage (!!!) conventional engine oil doesn't matter but do take the time to find one that says High Mileage on it. And make sure it's not a synthetic.

I had a bad (!) RMS seal on my BMW and when I discovered the replacement cost was up near $2k I went searching for other fixes. I got lots of recommendations to switch to a high mileage conventional and it did indeed cure the leak in about a week of daily driving.
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I guess most of the mess is ATF not the engine oil, guess I could switch oils and postpone the RMS till next year to see if it stops.
 
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Got any Ideas on the source of the ATF? it's quite the disaster under there. since cleaning it up I can find a drop. Id drive it around a bit and try to recreate the problem but im also in the middle of replacing rear axle seals and my retainer plates wont get here till tomorrow. the old ones are warped.
 
For what it’s worth, the oem rms seal can be found online for about $30. Then just a few hours labor and a oil change in the driveway and it’s done.

Conventional engine oil is pretty hard for me to find locally too, choices are super slim. On a whim I picked up some Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic and it stopped my rms leak that I was unable to get to stop with other high mileage full conventional oils… but if I go straight synthetic, oil just drops out like crazy.
 
Bigmac said:
Got any Ideas on the source of the ATF? it's quite the disaster under there. since cleaning it up I can find a drop. Id drive it around a bit and try to recreate the problem but im also in the middle of replacing rear axle seals and my retainer plates wont get here till tomorrow. the old ones are warped.
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Mine had three leaks, two I have found. The last one eludes me. One was the dipstick tube ring and the other was the neutral safety switch. The last one seems to come and go depending on the angle it is sitting while idling. Level and idling is fine. A few degrees front or back elevation and it seeps like yours looks.
 
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I could not find high mileage conventional oil where I live in Australia a year ago but it seemed very common in USA at the time. I can get it but its very expensive and not carried by local auto stores so it costs top dollar year round and has to be ordered in! All the high mileage oils here are synth or semi synth. I am surprised some in US now cant get High mileage conventional?
 
WSS said:
It’s a pay once cry once shop. The parts were probably under $100 including the anaerobic sealer.
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I think I've still got the anaerobic sealer from the one I did on my last jeep, seem to remember being surprised to read the instructions and realizing there is also some sort of activator your supposed to use on it as well.
 
03coloradowrangler said:
For what it’s worth, the oem rms seal can be found online for about $30. Then just a few hours labor and a oil change in the driveway and it’s done.

Conventional engine oil is pretty hard for me to find locally too, choices are super slim. On a whim I picked up some Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic and it stopped my rms leak that I was unable to get to stop with other high mileage full conventional oils… but if I go straight synthetic, oil just drops out like crazy.
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mobile 1 full syn high mileage is what Ive been using for years! I swear jeeps have their own personal preferences... maybe mine will appreciate the conventional...smh
 
Bigmac said:
I think I've still got the anaerobic sealer from the one I did on my last jeep, seem to remember being surprised to read the instructions and realizing there is also some sort of activator your supposed to use on it as well.
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That was a new one to me. The owner was all about using silicone. He uses silicone on everything. The parts guy he has talked him into the oe sealer. I think it was a two part, not sure but it seemed about triple of a tube of silicone.
 
WSS said:
That was a new one to me. The owner was all about using silicone. He uses silicone on everything. The parts guy he has talked him into the oe sealer. I think it was a two part, not sure but it seemed about triple of a tube of silicone.
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We only use the OEM anaerobic. We don't use anything with it.
 
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