Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

2002 Wrangler 4.0 replaced 4 starters in 8 months

HawksFan67

HawksFan67

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I have a 2002 Wrangler 4.0 auto transmission. I've put in 5 starters in about 3 years. 4 in the last 8 months. I purchased a "lifetime" warranty starter from Advance Auto 3 years ago. It's a Car Quest brand. The original replacement lasted about 2 years. Now I've put in 4 more in the last 8 months. This time it went out in an Advance Auto Parts parking lot. I will get into the Jeep and turn the ignition and get nothing but a "click". Nothing else. Sounds like a classic solenoid problem. They cam out to check the battery but I told them the battery is only a week old as I just replaced it along with the alternator. But they checked anyway and said it was the starter. I had to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver to start it to get home to get it out to return it. Replace the starter problem gone. Fast forward 2 months and the same thing. Turn the ignition and get nothing but a single "click". Jump the solenoid, get home take starter out, replace it and the Jeep starts fine. The starters are lasting an average of 2 months now and going out again. Is it just a crap aftermarket starter or can something else be causing all these solenoid problems?

Thanks, Brian
 
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If you have success by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver, the problem is not the starter as it did what you expected it to do. It is an electrical issue.

Follow what Mac said.
 
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The factory starters can last 15+ years.
The Advance AP starters sound as though they are poor quality rebuilds.
That is one of the reasons I don't use (V)Auto Zone and Advance AP; even though they offer lifetime warranties.
How many times do you want to replace the component under warranty ?
 
Last edited:
Probably junk aftermarket.

To properly test, get an INCANDESCENT (not LED) test light.

- Connect test light to battery ground.
- Remove single Brown wire from solenoid.
- GENTLY touch female terminal of brown solenoid wire.
- Have a helper turn key to start position, Test light should light. (If it doesn't swap relays. If that doesn't fix it, start chasing ignition switch.)
- Reconnect brown wire.
- With light still connected to battery negative, touch stud on solenoid that connects it to battery. Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position while touching same stud. Test light should stay lit.

- Switch test light to battery positive
- Touch test light to starter body, Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position and touch starter body again
- Test light should stay lit during crank

If all these tests pass, it's yet another junk starter.

To reference "Tommy Boy", they took a crap in a box and labeled it guaranteed. All they sold you was a lifetime pain in your ass.
 
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CharlesHS said:
The factory starters can last 15+ years.
The Advance AP starters sound as though they are poor quality rebuilds.
That is one of the reasons I don't use (V)Auto Zone and Advance AP; even though they offer lifetime warranties.
How many times do you want to replace the component under warranty ?
Click to expand...

That being said, Mopar don't offer a new starter. It's a rebuild. I never even heard of the brand. AC Delco does offer a new starter though.
 
DuckNut said:
If you have success by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver, the problem is not the starter as it did what you expected it to do. It is an electrical issue.

Follow what Mac said.
Click to expand...

If that's the case then why does replacing the starter "solve" the problem for a few months every time?
 
HawksFan67 said:
If that's the case then why does replacing the starter "solve" the problem for a few months every time?
Click to expand...

My best guess is that if you are able to jump the solenoid and it stars then you are bypassing some sort of switch preventing the solenoid sending power to the starter.

From a 100 foot observation, when you change the starter you are disconnecting yhe battery. In the time the battery is disconnected the fault is resetting until it triggers again, preventing the start.

In my opinion, you have an electrical problem, not a starter problem.
 
When you replace the starter you wiggle wires. That probably fixes things until they settle out again

Most certainly can be bad starters. But I'd still be checking wiring.

-Mac
 
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I gave you the answer. Idk why I waste my time typing this stuff out. If you want to know what’s wrong in your particular situation, perform the 5 min test I laid out and find out what you’re missing.

P.S. I learned way back in school that jumping a tiny field coil by shorting it with a screw driver and 800 cold cranking amps directly from the battery can compensate for a bad… drum roll please… ground. Which, you could test for in 30 seconds with a $10 test light.
 
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ItchyDong said:
Probably junk aftermarket.

To properly test, get an INCANDESCENT (not LED) test light.

- Connect test light to battery ground.
- Remove single Brown wire from solenoid.
- GENTLY touch female terminal of brown solenoid wire.
- Have a helper turn key to start position, Test light should light. (If it doesn't swap relays. If that doesn't fix it, start chasing ignition switch.)
- Reconnect brown wire.
- With light still connected to battery negative, touch stud on that connects it to battery. Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position while touching same stud. Test light should stay lit.

- Switch test light to battery positive
- Touch test light to starter body, Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position and touch starter body again
- Test light should stay lit during crank

If all these tests pass, it's yet another junk starter.

To reference "Tommy Boy", they took a crap in a box and labeled it guaranteed. All they sold you was a lifetime pain in your ass.
Click to expand...

Should this be done with the problem present? I've already replaced the starter again and the Jeep starts fine. If so, I'll have to carry a test light with me and do these tests the next time it happens.
 
ItchyDong said:
Probably junk aftermarket.

To properly test, get an INCANDESCENT (not LED) test light.

- Connect test light to battery ground.
- Remove single Brown wire from solenoid.
- GENTLY touch female terminal of brown solenoid wire.
- Have a helper turn key to start position, Test light should light. (If it doesn't swap relays. If that doesn't fix it, start chasing ignition switch.)
- Reconnect brown wire.
- With light still connected to battery negative, touch stud on that connects it to battery. Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position while touching same stud. Test light should stay lit.

- Switch test light to battery positive
- Touch test light to starter body, Test light should light
- Have helper turn key to start position and touch starter body again
- Test light should stay lit during crank

If all these tests pass, it's yet another junk starter.

To reference "Tommy Boy", they took a crap in a box and labeled it guaranteed. All they sold you was a lifetime pain in your ass.
Click to expand...

Itchy, bought a 2002 Wrangler TJ a couple of weeks ago. Cleaning it up so I can give it to my wife for her birthday. Previous owner said that he left it on a trickle charger because the battery kept draining. Took the battery to local auto store. Load test showed bad battery. Replaced battery and haven't had any issues. Gave my wife the jeep yesterday. Out for a ride today. Shut the engine off to 5 mins. Went to start it and it wouldn't go. The solenoid is engaging and the starter is even turning the engine over a couple of times, then no joy. Multimeter shows 12+ volts across battery. Tried to jump start it with a Toy Tundra, same result. Tried to push start it, no joy. Planning to do the tests that you describe above once it gets towed home. One line of your tests states, "With light still connected to battery negative, touch stud on that connects it to battery. Test light should light." You didn't say what the stud is on. "...touch stud on ??? that connects it to the battery." I'm sure it is supposed to be obvious, but I'm fairly literal. So if you can tell me what the stud is on, that would be immensely helpful.
 
If it didn't crank when jumping it, first thing I'd do is take all the wires off (INCLUDING the battery terminals and the ground) and clean them.
It's absofreakinlutely amazing how many times a "bad starter", a "bad battery" or a "bad alternator" was actually just an expensive bad connection.
 
DuckNut said:
My best guess is that if you are able to jump the solenoid and it stars then you are bypassing some sort of switch preventing the solenoid sending power to the starter.

From a 100 foot observation, when you change the starter you are disconnecting yhe battery. In the time the battery is disconnected the fault is resetting until it triggers again, preventing the start.

In my opinion, you have an electrical problem, not a starter problem.
Click to expand...

Yep,this
 
KennethS said:
Well that removes the starter circuitry from being an issue. Start looking at ignition and fuel delivery.
Click to expand...

Yes,all you are doing is (bench testing) the starter by shorting it.your large cable is hot to the starter.you have a problem with the ignition switch (not the key cylinder)sending power to the small starter terminal.
 
Moglocker said:
Yes,all you are doing is (bench testing) the starter by shorting it.your large cable is hot to the starter.you have a problem with the ignition switch (not the key cylinder)sending power to the small starter terminal.
Click to expand...

Not sure about that. Push starting removes the starter circuitry from the issue completely as the engine is turning without the starter’s involvement.
 
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