2005 4.0 rebuild list

Weman823

Weman823

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Joined
Feb 9, 2022
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Location
Edmonton, Alberta.
Hey guys, I know how frowned upon it is to post something that's been talked about, but I couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for and I know a bunch of guys who are too.

I wanted to build a list for someone wanting to do a basic rebuild for their 4.0

Nothing crazy like re boring or oversized valves. I don't want to have to take it to a tuner.

I started making a list with prices and part numbers. As a general guideline of what should be replaced as a wear item, some upgrades that replace common fail points and maybe some lighter performance mods to get every last bit of power and reliability out of this PowerPlant.

I also would like to add that the measurements aren't accurate. This is supposed to be a basic list of things I would be changing with an engine overhaul. The engine still runs okay, I'm just planning for a refresh and rebuild to better than OEM. So I haven't pulled the head or measured for tolerances.

If anyone has any reccomendations on brand or adding or subrtacting items from my list. I wouldnt mind getting some feedback as I want to start ordering parts soon to do this.

So far I've got:
Sealed power 4289M main bering set. $71.99

Sealed Power 6-3310CPA rod bering set. $38.99

Sealed power 1244M Cam bering set.
$27.99

ARP 146-5401 Main Stud Kit.
$125.66

ARP 146-6001 Connecting rod bolts.
$100.99

KB UEM-KB424C.030 piston set.
$254.99

Sealed power E925K Piston ring set.
$84.99

Crown auto 33003515 Intake Valve x1
$21.99

Crown auto 33003860 Exhaust Valve x1
$12.99

Felpro #SS 72835 Valve stem seals
$21.29

CompCams CCA-K68-239-4 cam set w/springs, lifters, chain set
$501.99

Hartland sharp HSJ4017NA roller rocker 1.7:1
$ 509.95

Clegg CE-JPPR Push rods set
$109.95

ARP 146-4201 Head Stud set.
$180.83

Fel-Pro 260-1998 Engine Gasket kit
$137.99

Totalling $2202.58 USD
 
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If anyone can add some of the extra things you can request from a shop that you should do on a rebuild. Ie. Honing cylinders, balancing crank and rods, magnaflux ect.

What are some of the things you think helps longevity, drivability, reliability, performance.
 
I'd start by taking every plug and freeze plug out of the block and have it hot tanked before doing anything. Inspect it and make sure the deck is OK or it may need a slight skim. Have the shop put in the cam bearings and mains when they bore the cyls and align hone the mains. Same with the head. Have them put the seats and guides in and do a valve job. Then you will have basically a short block that is correct and then you can do the rest at home. My 2 cents.

With the cam and crank in correctly toleranced, you are way ahead.
 
329art said:
I'd start by taking every plug and freeze plug out of the block and have it hot tanked before doing anything. Inspect it and make sure the deck is OK or it may need a slight skim. Have the shop put in the cam bearings and mains when they bore the cyls and align hone the mains. Same with the head. Have them put the seats and guides in and do a valve job. Then you will have basically a short block that is correct and then you can do the rest at home. My 2 cents.

With the cam and crank in correctly toleranced, you are way ahead.
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Awesome, this is the kind of response I'm looking for. Thank you!
 
ARP hardware, CompCams/rockers and Keith Black Pistons hardly seem like parts for a regular build. Do you need to run premium with those pistons and cam, what compression ratio are you going to end up with? This just seems very far from a basic rebuild to me. Seems more like a stroker without the crank.
 
pagrey said:
ARP hardware, CompCams/rockers and Keith Black Pistons hardly seem like parts for a regular build. Do you need to run premium with those pistons and cam, what compression ratio are you going to end up with? This just seems very far from a basic rebuild to me. Seems more like a stroker without
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Like I said, I'm trying to improve the original design. These aren't the items I would pick, they're placeholders to see if I'm missing anything.

As per the post, I'm trying to improve on the OEM design. These are items that I can replace to increase durability or performance without having to re tune the computer.
 
Not trying to be negative about it but you've got some high dollar performance stuff there. You aren't improving anything or increasing durability by putting a hot cam in it and raising the compression ratio. Personally I'd just lean towards displacement or totally stock, no replacement for displacement and all. The cam is where you really start to have tuning issues or at least that's my red flag.
 
pagrey said:
Not trying to be negative about it but you've got some high dollar performance stuff there. You aren't improving anything or increasing durability by putting a hot cam in it and raising the compression ratio. Personally I'd just lean towards displacement or totally stock, no replacement for displacement and all. The cam is where you really start to have tuning issues or at least that's my red flag.
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I appreciate that. Removing the cam then for a basic rebuild.
 
The pistons you have listed are for a stroker and the dish in the pistons are not desired. The pictures I have seen are a round dish with no quench pad. The stock 4.0 leaves some room for improvement. The right builder will make the mild combo work much better than stock.
 
Talk to your engine builder. More than once I have had someone bring me a pile of parts that were expensive but useless and made them cry with the news.Most OEM stuff works well for an OEM build.
 
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329art said:
Talk to your engine builder. More than once I have had someone bring me a pile of parts that were expensive but useless and made them cry with the news.Most OEM stuff works well for an OEM build.
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This is what I did, essentially.

I disassembled the engine, didn't take the head apart and took everything to the engine builder. He did all the measuring and inspection and sourced all the parts based on my budget. The head needed to be rebuilt, which he did as well as installed the cam bearings, I assembled and installed the engine.

First time I'd done this and it turned out as well as I could have expected.
 
Without an actual teardown, inspection and measurements, I think there is too much room for wasted time and money.
 
Yeah for a basic rebuild, most of this stuff is overkill. For $2,200 you could build a strong stroker engine. Unless there is damage you don't need new pistons or valves. Re-lap the old valves if you want. That cam is going to move the power band to the mid-upper RPM range, probably not so good unless that is what you are intending. The Comp Cams 232 is probably more appropriate.

The roller rockers are probably overkill too. Will they help? Yes a little, but worth it? Probably not. Re-use the stock ones.

ARP bolts are probably overkill too. Just go with OEM style. You can reuse the main bolts, head bolts can technically be reused once but just get a replacement set from Rock Auto or somewhere.

There is probably $1200+ in your list that is unnecessary unless you are going for a performance engine. And put a new water pump on there if you are going this far. FlowKooler pumps have a good reputation, but OEM is fine too.

And don't order your main bearings until you have measured the crank clearance. Plasti-gauge works great for things like this.
 
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