42RLE automatic transmission has pause from 3rd to 4th gear upshift

Old99man

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I have a 2004 Rocky Mountain edition Wrangler with 234,000 miles, yes original drivetrain. This Jeep was a pavement princess. Little rust that is near unheard of in southwestern PA. The automatic transmission has a slight pause from 3rd to 4th upshifting but not downshifting when it shifts it is a firm shift which leads me to believe that a check ball is sticking. I have owned 3 jeeps a 1974 CJ5, a 1978 cj7, and this one, and this one was the only automatic in the group along with it being the only one that kept my feet warm without using felt packs. Any information on the trans question would be appreciated also only had it for a week and the plus 4 fluid is on its way for a fluid and filter change.
Thanks in advance
 
234k miles?

Has the transmission been rebuilt? If not, I can tell you with pretty much guaranteed certainty that your transmission is in need of a rebuild. These 42RLE automatic transmissions seem to last about 200k miles before they are in need of an overhaul and start experiencing issues.

In your case, the first thing to do is check the transmission fluid (check it while the engine is warmed up, running, and in park) and see what the color of the fluid is, as well as where it is on the dipstick.

But still, if that transmission hasn't been rebuild at that mileage, I can guarantee it's on its last leg and living on borrowed time. It's pretty uncommon for automatic transmissions to make it that long.
 
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Welcome, Old99man!

I'm with Chris on this one; that's an arse load of miles on an automatic. If the fluid looks bad or smells burnt, you can change it out but it may not help. Whatever you do, do not, repeat, DO NOT go someplace and have them do a power flush on it. A tranny with that many miles on it will invariably react badly to a power flush as old, and somewhat crispy, seals will blow and gunk will be dislodged only to get stuck in important little passages, ball valves, etc. Just don't go there.
 
Thanks I’ve been trying to decide if the trans rebuild would make sense, I am known to be frugal (read cheap) I’m considering purchasing one on eBay or one from the local bone yard and swap it out thanks for the input. I’ve been using it for my work ride but intend to take it off-road in the future.
 
Auto transmission issues come in two flavors, A) slipping/shuddering usually caused by worn clutches/bands and B) slow/erratic shifts usually caused by pressure issues. Type 'B' will eventually lead to type 'A' issues because the clutches and bands don't engage quick enough and slip, creating accelerated wear. It doesn't sound like that is your issue, yet. So let's look at type 'B' issues.

First step is to ensure your Throttle Valve (TV) cable is adjusted properly. The cables eventually stretch, especially at that mileage. This cable runs from the transmission to the throttle body and simply put, regulates the transmission fluid pressure based on throttle position. It also controls the kick-down when you stomp on the gas to accelerate quickly. Several videos on youtube for the adjustment, super easy and quick - you won't even get dirty!

If that doesn't fix it, the issue typically lies in the valve body in the transmission. This is the brains that controls the movement of fluid for gear changes. When you hear people talk about their transmissions failing after getting flushed, what has happened is sludge has found its way into the little channels and prevented the check balls from sealing or the pistons to move freely. When this happens, the clutches/bands do not engage properly, slip and burn up. Obviously that results in a blown transmission requiring a rebuild.

The value body is fairly easy to remove and can be cleaned without pulling the transmission. If you are reasonably handy you could drop the transmission pan (draining all fluid), remove the filter (2 screws) and then remove the valve body (8 bolts, if I remember correctly). There are some electrical connections too and you have to remove the shift and TV cables from the selector shaft. The service manual explains how to remove, disassemble and reassemble everything and there are also youtube videos that walk through the process, although they have the tranny out. There is only really one pain-in-the-butt part and that is the small gear selector ball- have a buddy around because you need the extra hands to reassemble it. Take lots of pictures so you remember where everything goes, although the parts really only fit in one place, except the small check balls - take pics so you know where to put them. Clean everything completely with lint free wipes - dust/cloth fibers are your enemy.

Reassemble valve body into transmission and refill with ATF. Re-adjust TV cable and run it. It will shift better and assuming the clutches/bands are still reasonably good, will buy you some more time before having to pull it for a complete rebuild.
 
Welcome to the forum from a former Pennsylvania-ite (Allentown).

I don't have any advice to offer especially since tquig01 just posted some amazing insight.

I do have a question for this thread. At 114k miles my tranny fluid is still a good shade of red (I belive it's been changed at some point because of it's color) so I feel safe changing it. I get the impression from other threads that people say change it regardless of color and mileage. I was always taught once you get above, say 120k - 150k, on original fluid it's a bad idea to change it because failure can occur. That doesn't seem to be the case with these transmissions?

Also what fluid do most people run? I think I heard @Jerry Bransford recommend Valvoline Synthetic but I could be wrong about that.
 
The high mileage failures occur because of what I spoke about. ATF has detergents in it to help keep all the little pathways and valves clean. When the fluid gets changed at high mileage, the new detergents can break sludge free which results in problems. If people cleaned the valve body at high mileage when they put in new fluid, the chance of failure is greatly reduced if not eliminated according to my transmission repair friend.

The biggest issue with these transmissions is the TV cable adjustment. These trannys are really simple from a design standpoint and can take tremendous abuse. The TV cable can be way out of adjustment and they will still work, although their life is being considerably accelerated. Low pressure from sludge or cable adjustment results in soft shifts which cause glazing of the clutch and band material. The shifts slowly get worse and may go unnoticed for a long time resulting in damage. The discoloration (brown) and smell are caused by suspended friction material (sludge). If yours is still red, you do not have a lot of wear, unless the fluid was recently changed. I always run the factory recommended ATF in my vehicles, for what its worth.
 
The high mileage failures occur because of what I spoke about. ATF has detergents in it to help keep all the little pathways and valves clean. When the fluid gets changed at high mileage, the new detergents can break sludge free which results in problems. If people cleaned the valve body at high mileage when they put in new fluid, the chance of failure is greatly reduced if not eliminated according to my transmission repair friend.

The biggest issue with these transmissions is the TV cable adjustment. These trannys are really simple from a design standpoint and can take tremendous abuse. The TV cable can be way out of adjustment and they will still work, although their life is being considerably accelerated. Low pressure from sludge or cable adjustment results in soft shifts which cause glazing of the clutch and band material. The shifts slowly get worse and may go unnoticed for a long time resulting in damage. The discoloration (brown) and smell are caused by suspended friction material (sludge). If yours is still red, you do not have a lot of wear, unless the fluid was recently changed. I always run the factory recommended ATF in my vehicles, for what its worth.

Thanks for the info on the TV cable. When I mash the pedal my tranny rarely downshifts. I assumed it was because 4 speed loves to stay in OD so I simply click the OD button off so that I don't stand there dumping gas into the engine and never downshifting.
 
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I was always taught once you get above, say 120k - 150k, on original fluid it's a bad idea to change it because failure can occur. That doesn't seem to be the case with these transmissions?

Also what fluid do most people run? I think I heard @Jerry Bransford recommend Valvoline Synthetic but I could be wrong about that.
That's a bad old wive's tale that ATF shouldn't be changed after X number of miles. If a transmission fails right after changing its ATF, it was about to fail anyway... and likely from not having changed the ATF often enough. ATF+4 is the ONLY type of ATF that can be run in our Jeep automatic transmissions. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the front label it's the wrong stuff for the transmission. ATF+4 is a synthetic, it's good stuff.

ATF+4 is also a good choice for the transfer case, though the transfer case is good with any type of good quality ATF.
 
That's a bad old wive's tale that ATF shouldn't be changed after X number of miles. If a transmission fails right after changing its ATF, it was about to fail anyway... and likely from not having changed the ATF often enough.
Yup. They fail because of sludge. Sludge is friction material from the clutches and bands. New fluid just stirred it up and pushed it through the valve body. That reduces pressure causing them to slip and create more suspended friction material. Change the filter and fluid regularly and there is minimal sludge to mess up the tranny.
 
I have a 2004 Rocky Mountain edition Wrangler with 234,000 miles, yes original drivetrain. This Jeep was a pavement princess. Little rust that is near unheard of in southwestern PA. The automatic transmission has a slight pause from 3rd to 4th upshifting but not downshifting when it shifts it is a firm shift which leads me to believe that a check ball is sticking. I have owned 3 jeeps a 1974 CJ5, a 1978 cj7, and this one, and this one was the only automatic in the group along with it being the only one that kept my feet warm without using felt packs. Any information on the trans question would be appreciated also only had it for a week and the plus 4 fluid is on its way for a fluid and filter change.
Thanks in advance

Changing the filter is a great idea. The 42RLE is computer controlled. One of the great parts about this is that the computer tracks the wear. A very good transmission shop can read the control module and tell you how your transmission is doing. These transmissions can end up in the junkyard with well over 200K in working order with the factory filter still in the pan. Don't worry too much about a rebuild until the check engine light comes on, the transmission knows when it is sick. The hardest part will be finding a shop with the correct tools and experience to work on the transmission, most shops have never had to work on one. Some mechanics might have experience with the A604, same thing.
 
The high mileage failures occur because of what I spoke about. ATF has detergents in it to help keep all the little pathways and valves clean. When the fluid gets changed at high mileage, the new detergents can break sludge free which results in problems. If people cleaned the valve body at high mileage when they put in new fluid, the chance of failure is greatly reduced if not eliminated according to my transmission repair friend.

The biggest issue with these transmissions is the TV cable adjustment. These trannys are really simple from a design standpoint and can take tremendous abuse. The TV cable can be way out of adjustment and they will still work, although their life is being considerably accelerated. Low pressure from sludge or cable adjustment results in soft shifts which cause glazing of the clutch and band material. The shifts slowly get worse and may go unnoticed for a long time resulting in damage. The discoloration (brown) and smell are caused by suspended friction material (sludge). If yours is still red, you do not have a lot of wear, unless the fluid was recently changed. I always run the factory recommended ATF in my vehicles, for what its worth.

Well this is interesting...
I have an '04 LJ with the 42RLE transmission and there is no TV cable. There is a place to connect it to, a bracket to connect it in and a clip to hold the cable in place but no cable and no visible spot on the tranny to have one. This leads me to believe it is controlled by the computer since when I slam the peddle down it does downshift (unless I am all the way in OD which seems to be "normal").

While I was crawling around under there I noticed my gear shift cable was functioning out of sheer dumb luck!!! It's not even connected. It appears that there is a ball on the end of the part that connects to the transmission and the cable pops onto that ball. The ball is gone so there is literally nothing holding the cable to the transmission. The hoop on the end of the cable happens to sit in the right spot to catch the shift level on the tranny.
From the looks of it it's been this way for a long time and this would also explain the play in my shift lever. Any idea where to get that little connector piece?
 
That's a bad old wive's tale that ATF shouldn't be changed after X number of miles. If a transmission fails right after changing its ATF, it was about to fail anyway... and likely from not having changed the ATF often enough. ATF+4 is the ONLY type of ATF that can be run in our Jeep automatic transmissions. If it doesn't say ATF+4 in big letters on the front label it's the wrong stuff for the transmission. ATF+4 is a synthetic, it's good stuff.

ATF+4 is also a good choice for the transfer case, though the transfer case is good with any type of good quality ATF.

Do you recommend a brand? I was just going to use Mopar. I used Mopar in the transfer case already. Just filled it until it came out of the hole.
 
Do you recommend a brand? I was just going to use Mopar. I used Mopar in the transfer case already. Just filled it until it came out of the hole.
No need for Mopar lubes, they don't make their own anyway. Just stick with a good name brand. Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline, NAPA (made by Valvoline), Mobil, etc. I don't know of a major brand of gear lube, ATF, engine oil, etc. that I wouldn't run.
 
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One other thing I noticed was the breather on the end of the tranny vent tube had oil (presumably tranny fluid) on it. Not a ton and you could see it has been there for some time but it it normal for the tranny fluid vapors to collect like that? I don't believe my tranny is overfilled.
 
Well this is interesting...
I have an '04 LJ with the 42RLE transmission and there is no TV cable. There is a place to connect it to, a bracket to connect it in and a clip to hold the cable in place but no cable and no visible spot on the tranny to have one. This leads me to believe it is controlled by the computer since when I slam the peddle down it does downshift (unless I am all the way in OD which seems to be "normal").

While I was crawling around under there I noticed my gear shift cable was functioning out of sheer dumb luck!!! It's not even connected. It appears that there is a ball on the end of the part that connects to the transmission and the cable pops onto that ball. The ball is gone so there is literally nothing holding the cable to the transmission. The hoop on the end of the cable happens to sit in the right spot to catch the shift level on the tranny.
From the looks of it it's been this way for a long time and this would also explain the play in my shift lever. Any idea where to get that little connector piece?

DOH! I am an idiot and apologize - you have a 42LE not a 32RH like me.

At a high level, the differences between the two (32RH vs 42LE) are 3 speed vs 4 speed, 5 clutch discs vs. 4 and a hydraulically controlled valve body vs an electronically controlled one (no TV cable, its handled internally with a solenoids on the valve body).

The upside is that your TV cable is adjusted properly! LMAO Seriously though, the rest of the post still holds true. There is really not much different between these two. The valve body is slightly more complicated because it uses solenoids to regulate internal pressures instead of metal valves, but still not on par with modern 8+ speed transmissions.
 
DOH! I am an idiot and apologize - you have a 42LE not a 32RH like me.

At a high level, the differences between the two (32RH vs 42LE) are 3 speed vs 4 speed, 5 clutch discs vs. 4 and a hydraulically controlled valve body vs an electronically controlled one (no TV cable, its handled internally with a solenoids on the valve body).

The upside is that your TV cable is adjusted properly! LMAO Seriously though, the rest of the post still holds true. There is really not much different between these two. The valve body is slightly more complicated because it uses solenoids to regulate internal pressures instead of metal valves, but still not on par with modern 8+ speed transmissions.

Thanks for confirming :)
Now where do I get that little ball that the shifter cable connects to?
 
This part? https://www.factorychryslerparts.co...R-40L-Eng--40L-Engine/4383757/52078723AE.html

Maybe you can cross reference the part number or try a salvage yard like Davey's Jeeps?

Nope. It's the cable that connects to that. In the pic below you can see it's a little spherical thing that comes WITH the $85 cable :/
I'll need to engineer something.
One last thing, does you tranny breather tube collect oil at it's mouth? I'm not talking a lot, just enough to coat it and have dirt and dust then stick to it.

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