42RLE Shift Kit

Irun

Irun

A vicious cycle of doing, undoing, and re-doing!
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2019
Messages
8,061
Location
Virginia
I'm going to be removing the trans pan to change fluid and filter. Although the trans was rebuilt a few years ago, I'm getting some chattering between 1 - 2 shift, along with a slight delay when going into forward and reverse. While I'm in there I plan to replace the reducer bushing and do the Transgo shift kit. Besides knowing where things go and keeping the valve body clean, is there anything else I need to watch for? FWIW, this isn't my fist shift kit install, but I've not done one on the 42RLE.

https://transgo.com/product-details/604-reducer-bushing/
https://transgo.com/product-details/604-shift-kit/
 
I installed a Transgo Stage 1 into my present 42RLE, it was easy to do and an interesting thing to do since I had never been inside the valve body. The only extra thing I added to that part were new check balls that go in the valve body channels. Just note where they were or have the FSM guide handy. The Stage 1 version makes it shift the same as before, I didn't want or need extra-firm shifts. I also installed a new solenoid pack and range sensor while in there.

The biggest thing I kept in mind was cleanliness, I used 2-3 cans of no-residue brake cleaner during the process and to flush the valve body before putting things back together. Get some ATF soluble Assembly Goo too to hold things together while you insert the valve body back up into the transmission.
 
  • Like
Reactions: LJBean and Irun
I have the TransGo Kit, 604-BSH Boost Valve, and the Mopar Solenoid Pack in a box. I was planning to install them back in July but it was way too hot, then I found the issue I was having was with the PCM, so maybe later...

Though I have not performed this job, it does not look fun. You'll also need a 1/4-inch drive torque wrench that goes down to 40 in.-lb and a 10mm socket.

If you need the check balls, the P/N is 52118261.

This is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SOVRGU/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Valve body removal:


Shift Kit & valve body install:


 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford and D M
AjRagno said:
I have the TransGo Kit, 604-BSH Boost Valve, and the Mopar Solenoid Pack in a box. I was planning to install them back in July but it was way too hot, then I found the issue I was having was with the PCM, so maybe later...

Though I have not performed this job, it does not look fun. You'll also need a 1/4-inch drive torque wrench that goes down to 40 in.-lb and a 10mm socket.

If you need the check valves, the P/N is 52118261.

This is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SOVRGU/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Valve body removal:


Shift Kit & valve body install:


Click to expand...
This is awesome!
 
Can you guys please tell us the results these changes give? On and off road?
 
AndyG said:
Can you guys please tell us the results these changes give? On and off road?
Click to expand...
For the 42RLE I don't really expect to feel any significant changes, given this is a "mild" shift kit. For me, I'm looking to see if there's any improvement for items 1, 2, and 5 below. Number 1 will really, likely, be addressed by the replacement reducer bushing. Classically, for shift improvement kits, number 5 is the primary benefit. In this case, the kit comes with accumulator spacers to improve fluid flow/pressure, resulting in shorter and cleaner shifts.

Effectively, what you're doing is reducing the shift timing. Most automatic transmissions are designed with extended shift overlap, so the driver gets smooth shifts as the transmission goes through the gears. Because this smooth shift introduces additional friction, at the clutches, excessive heat is generated, which causes premature wear. The balance is in not decreasing the shift timing to the point where shifts between gears are abrupt, i.e. resulting in a bang. Racers typically do this, but it's not needed for our daily driver Jeeps. Overall, we just want the transmission to be more reliable and durable!


Per Transgo:

Corrects/Prevents/Reduces: ​

  1. 2-1 coast downshift clunk
  2. Delayed or no forward or reverse
  3. Accumulator leaks
  4. 4-3 coast downshift clunk
  5. Provides cleaner and shorter shifts
 
Irun said:
For the 42RLE I don't really expect to feel any significant changes, given this is a "mild" shift kit. For me, I'm looking to see if there's any improvement for items 1, 2, and 5 below. Number 1 will really, likely, be addressed by the replacement reducer bushing. Classically, for shift improvement kits, number 5 is the primary benefit. In this case, the kit comes with accumulator spacers to improve fluid flow/pressure, resulting in shorter and cleaner shifts.

Effectively, what you're doing is reducing the shift timing. Most automatic transmissions are designed with extended shift overlap, so the driver gets smooth shifts as the transmission goes through the gears. Because this smooth shift introduces additional friction, at the clutches, excessive heat is generated, which causes premature wear. The balance is in not decreasing the shift timing to the point where shifts between gears are abrupt, i.e. resulting in a bang. Racers typically do this, but it's not needed for our daily driver Jeeps. Overall, we just want the transmission to be more reliable and durable!


Per Transgo:

Corrects/Prevents/Reduces: ​

  1. 2-1 coast downshift clunk
  2. Delayed or no forward or reverse
  3. Accumulator leaks
  4. 4-3 coast downshift clunk
  5. Provides cleaner and shorter shifts
Click to expand...
So what’s the verdict of the kit. Is what they claim true or not?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
Chasitek said:
So what’s the verdict of the kit. Is what they claim true or not?
Click to expand...
Hey Chasitek, I installed this Transgo shift improvement kit about 7 years ago and my tranny is working great with it. What I felt was simply a mild more positive shift than stock with no banging shifts whatsoever. I didn’t really notice anything more than that but as we all know, any improvement to our minivan 4 speed transmissions is a plus. I would say that I believe the install was worth it for the minimal cost. Just be patient getting the valve body back in place as there is a small lever that has to go back in correctly as it sits on the up side front of the valve body.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chasitek
I meant to mention that it did seem to improve the forward and reverse delay along with no clunk from 4th to 3rd gear as well. As it advertises about “cleaner” shifts I would say that is the ideal description. Not a crisp or harsh upshift but simply cleaner.
 
Brad’s Tj said:
I meant to mention that it did seem to improve the forward and reverse delay along with no clunk from 4th to 3rd gear as well. As it advertises about “cleaner” shifts I would say that is the ideal description. Not a crisp or harsh upshift but simply cleaner.
Click to expand...
That's as much as I can say for my Stage 1 Transgo shift kit. It definitely does not shift harshly between gears, I can only say it shifts well.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
That's as much as I can say for my Stage 1 Transgo shift kit. It definitely does not shift harshly between gears, I can only say it shifts well.
Click to expand...
Hi Jerry, question for you…
I’m pretty much done with my sye install and I’ve ran into the same ordeal as qslim posted. My concern is the transfer case oil line tube to the pump. I’ll just quote qslim’s post as it sums up my same issue. Your opinion or anyone else’s would be great! Thanks in advance!
Quote;
qslim said:
I worked a little on my SYE today, got the back half of the case back on and as I was giving it a look over later I noticed the oil feed tube going to the oil pump - looks like it dropped down out of the pump a little bit? I think the flange of the tube isn’t up against the pump. The tube is still there & I don’t see the o-ring so I assume it is too (it was definitely in there when I assembled it). Is this how they normally sit or am I taking this thing back apart?
View attachment 228157
 
Brad’s Tj said:
Hi Jerry, question for you…
I’m pretty much done with my sye install and I’ve ran into the same ordeal as qslim posted. My concern is the transfer case oil line tube to the pump. I’ll just quote qslim’s post as it sums up my same issue. Your opinion or anyone else’s would be great! Thanks in advance!
Quote;
qslim said:
I worked a little on my SYE today, got the back half of the case back on and as I was giving it a look over later I noticed the oil feed tube going to the oil pump - looks like it dropped down out of the pump a little bit? I think the flange of the tube isn’t up against the pump. The tube is still there & I don’t see the o-ring so I assume it is too (it was definitely in there when I assembled it). Is this how they normally sit or am I taking this thing back apart?
View attachment 228157
Click to expand...
I think I posted in the wrong place 🙄
 
Brad’s Tj said:
Hi Jerry, question for you…
I’m pretty much done with my sye install and I’ve ran into the same ordeal as qslim posted. My concern is the transfer case oil line tube to the pump. I’ll just quote qslim’s post as it sums up my same issue. Your opinion or anyone else’s would be great! Thanks in advance!
Quote;
qslim said:
I worked a little on my SYE today, got the back half of the case back on and as I was giving it a look over later I noticed the oil feed tube going to the oil pump - looks like it dropped down out of the pump a little bit? I think the flange of the tube isn’t up against the pump. The tube is still there & I don’t see the o-ring so I assume it is too (it was definitely in there when I assembled it). Is this how they normally sit or am I taking this thing back apart?
View attachment 228157
Click to expand...
Hard to tell from your picture, if it did fall out, you can take a flat head and carefully pry it back up until you feel the o ring seat.
 
Top Bottom
Back