97 TJ started-with-needing-a-frame build

afmayer

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 5, 2019
Messages
5
Location
Rochester, NY
So, I don;t know how the fever started...sort of. 19 year old son was looking at a Jeep Wrangler Sport manual 4.0L red with gray interior, with new top and tires, not mounted, and extra axles and transfer, and I found one for $3k, with some frame issues but pretty intact body/floor because the carpet was removed. Son eventually went for a 91 Mustang GT, and I had been bitten by the Dirt Lifestyle (YouTube) bug. Bought a 98 4.0L automatic 4-inch lift 33-inch tire rust bucket for missing trim parts and other stuff. Sold 4.0, tires, flat fenders (making my own), etc. and other parts made up for the $500 miscellaneous trim parts, swing bumper/tire carrier, tan interior, ... And I bought a TJ hard top with wiper for $400, but probably shouldn't have... too heavy and soft top may be more quiet.
After breaking down the '98 and scrapping the body (carpets were good, but caused massive rust underneath), the frame was shot! OK, no problem, I think I'm OK with the 97... NOT! 97 was soft in the middle where the skid plate was, and typical spot after the rear suspendion brackets was toast. Started to look at frames, and I saw the Motobilt rear frame. THAT I can build! Chopped toward front of center straight section at an angle to splice in (with fish-plate), and had the front sandblasted ($180!). When I got it back, I decided to cut a little more off and start from where the front frame comes down, and, instead of going out wide and coming back inward like the Motobilt does, I decided to start narrowing from there. I would need to build my own frame to match the stock, but beefier. Wish I had ordered 4x2.5 tube from Totten Tubes, because welding was extensive (used 1/4-inch by 4-inch sides, and 3/16-inch by 2-inch top and bottom). AND getting the correct angle of the bends required me to learn flame straightening. Flame straightening is AWESOME! I was able to have end of frame displacement held to within a millimeter at 6-feet. Welding adds sooo much warpage that it had to be done.
So, plans are, and have boughten, to use a D44HP and 9-inch from a 77 F150, Ford 9-inch conversion disc brakes, stock 4.0L and manual tranny, 231J doubled transfer (Froehlich Suspension) and JB conversion SYE shorty, custom control arms, DIY rollcage (using racer specs and Barnes 4WD parts), Dodge Durango steering gear and mod parts for steering assist, and extending the wheelbase and comp-cutting (or my version of it).
Want a fuel cell, Coyote Beadlocks, and 17-inch rims (but really unsure about rim size), high-steer, DIY sway bar for 4-inch lift (or Rock-something or other), most likely 37's or 35's or 40's (!), and ????????????????????????????????????
.... more soon...

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Oh, when I found the Dodge Durango larger steering box, I found a TJ with half doors at the U-Pull-It for $45 each! ....and, silly me, I was going to build my own tube doors. I'm already going to build my own legal fenders.
 
45$ half doors... people selling them for 800$ by me. Not sure if anyone is buying them for that price, though. That's a steal!
 
ALSO A HARD TOP for $400?? that is a $800 to $1200 item down here on Long Island, I am going to go back to my college town of Oswego to be near you in Rochester for those prices.
 
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45$ half doors... people selling them for 800$ by me. Not sure if anyone is buying them for that price, though. That's a steal!
They were the color red, even. In Western NY, half-doors can go for 300 up to 500+. No one wants to do the dirty work of going to a Pick-N-Pull (whatever it's called in your area) and getting parts. P-N-P sell then for scrap value, not value to enthusiasts.