97 TJ steering wander - 3 month problem - looking for helpful hints

Mudtug

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Concord, NC USA
Hi all,
I have a 97 TJ that I have built, body off restoration/build. Installed a Rough Country 6" lift, running 35" Goodyear Wranglers with beadlock wheels. Since I finished the Jeep (back in April of 2020) I have been fighting a steering issue. At first when it got over 25mph it would bump steer. This made me nervous so I spent like way too much time underneath adjusting caster angle. It never really cleared up, so I took it over to 4WP in Charlotte, NC, They adjusted the lower control arms and set a 9 degree caster angle on it. Got it back and while it was improved it is still there, driving down the road and it wanders left and right, I suppose I could be overcorrecting, but it is still there, just doesn't feel safe....

Here is what I have done to thus far;

I have replaced the wheel bearings already.
The upper and lower track bar bolts are torqued to 125 ft/lbs.
I have a Steinjager Crossover steering kit installed with a single steering stabilizer installed (dual steering stabilizer is ordered)
I have installed 2 separate steering gear boxes (finally have one that does not wobble/wiggle)
I retained the factory pittman arm so the drag link and the track bar are as parallel as possible.
All bolts on the upper and lower control arms are torqued to their spec, as well as steering stabilizer bolt and the 5/8" bolts that hold all the heim joints on the steering kit.
We have done everything, including turning the steering wheel with vehicle off and on, no movement on the underside that we can discern.

I have been chasing this issue since April, trying to track down the root cause of this wandering. Could it just be that a 6" lift and 35's causes this behavior and I just need to learn how to deal with it or is there something I am missing? I am wondering if the ball joints are moving as I head down the road just enough to cause this issue, so I am replacing them with Alloy USA Heavy Duty ball joints upper and lower (as I am suspicious if the ones I installed during the build were cheap Chinese made ones)?

Any thoughts would be appreciated. This is starting to drive me bananas! I just want to get out and put some miles on this rig so I can think about hitting the trails!

Thank you,
Mike
Concord, NC

TJ_1.webp


TJ under RH.webp


TJ_under_LH.webp
 
Crossover steering, stock pitman arm, and a drop track bar bracket.

That’s your issue. Going to that crossover steering setup was a foolish idea, as they have inherent issues, all of which fit into what you’re describing.

I say this as politely as possible, but that steering system belongs in the trash. The fact they are selling that as an “upgrade” is a joke.

Get rid of the dropped track bar bracket and go back to a factory steering setup or Currie Currectlync, both of which use the factory Haltenberger steering design.

You’ll thank me.
 
FWIW, the drop track bar bracket on the frame is not only bolted, but it is also welded to the frame rail inside the chassis and outside the chassis.

Thank you for the input on the steering setup, I will look for some unmodified LH and RH knuckles as well as the drop pittman arm (had that on originally, but it took the track bar and drag link out of alignment (parallel)). Will investigate the Currie steering components.

Thanks for your input.
Mike
 
Loose that 💩 steering. Do as Chris said. Go for a ZJ steering setup or the Currie. If the frame side mount is a total bitch to replace with a stock mount, using an equal drop pitman can also balance out the angles. Not ideal, but far better than hacking up a frame. 6" spring lift seems excessive when keeping a short arm set up. I would go to lower springs and a body puck lift to help balance it all out. Others have more experience with 6"coils, so take their opinions over mine on that one.