A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...

[Mike_H]

So, to follow-up on this. I spent some time troubleshooting this no-start issue today. It was acting exactly like it was when I had the IAC issue. With that going on, I decided to pull the IAC again and try rethreading the plunger. Sure as shit, the Jeep started up and ran like a top again. So...what was causing the IAC to become unthreaded. I pulled the whole throttle body to see if there was a burr or something catching the plunger. I removed the IAC housing and checked it out. It was pretty clean. I polished up the tip of the plunger where it seals in the housing and douched the housing with a bottle of carb cleaner and a nylon bristle brush, just because it was opened up.

I then put the IAC back in the housing and connected the stepper motor to the harness. I activated my IAC test from my diagnostic tool and watched how the plunger moved in the housing. I caught what I think is the problem. As the motor reversed direction, the plunger would spin. IF you've never opened up the IAC (like, who would, right) it has what appears to be a screw thread on the shaft, attached to the plunger. That screw thread mates to a matching thread on the motor. As the motor spins, the plunger runs in and out...as long as its stationary. If it spins with the motor, there is no linear motion.

So, my theory is that every time the IAC made a direction change, the plunger would hang up, and it would creep out closer and closer to sealing the throttle body bypass air circuit. Pretty soon, the IAC isn't able to retract enough to let the engine idle.

I took the IAC plunger out and cleaned the threads really well. got all the dark, nasty sticky stuff out of them, and cleaned the inside of the stepper motor as well as I good. Then I used some Boeshield T9 oil on the threads. When I was done, the plunger would spin VERY freely into the stepper motor. I tried the acutation test again, and this time, the plunger didn't move when the stepper motor reversed direction.

I put everything back together and the jeep is running very well again. I hope this is my cure...if not, I'll be searching for an new IAC. I can say, without a doubt, that it has been causing my hard starting issue now and I'll feel a lot better about spending 150 bucks on a new mopar one.

 

[Wildman]

So, to follow-up on this. I spent some time torubleshooting this no-start issue today. It was acting exactly like it was when I had the IAC issue. With that going on, I decided to pull the IAC again and try rethreading the plunger. Sure as shit, the Jeep started up and ran like a top again. So...what was causing the IAC to become unthreaded. I pulled the whole throttle body to see if there was a burr or something catching the plunger. I removed the IAC housing and checked it out. It was pretty clean. I polished up the tip of the plunger where it seals in the housing and douched the housing with a bottle of carb cleaner and a nylon bristle brush, just because it was opened up.

I then put the IAC back in the housing and connected the stepper motor to the harness. I activated my IAC test from my diagnostic tool and watched how the plunger moved in the housing. I caught what I think is the problem. As the motor reversed direction, the plunger would spin. IF you've never opened up the IAC (like, who would, right) it has what appears to be a screw thread on the shaft, attached to the plunger. That screw thread mates to a matching thread on the motor. As the motor spins, the plunger runs in and out...as long as its stationary. If it spins with the motor, there is no linear motion.

So, my theory is that every time the IAC made a direction change, the plunger would hang up, and it would creep out closer and closer to sealing the throttle body bypass air circuit. Pretty soon, the IAC isn't able to retract enough to let the engine idle.

I took the IAC plunger out and cleaned the threads really well. got all the dark, nasty sticky stuff out of them, and cleaned the inside of the stepper motor as well as I good. Then I used some Boeshield T9 oil on the threads. When I was done, the plunger would spin VERY freely into the stepper motor. I tried the acutation test again, and this time, the plunger didn't move when the stepper motor reversed direction.

I put everything back together and the jeep is running very well again. I hope this is my cure...if not, I'll be searching for an new IAC. I can say, without a doubt, that it has been causing my hard starting issue now and I'll feel a lot better about spending 150 bucks on a new mopar one.

Been too long since I've played with a 4.0 so I don't remember what your IAC looks like but if it's the same as what's on my V-8 I have two spares and would be glad to share. I got them about 6 months ago off Ebay and they are actual Mopar IAC's.

 

[Mike_H]

Been too long since I've played with a 4.0 so I don't remember what your IAC looks like but if it's the same as what's on my V-8 I have two spares and would be glad to share. I got them about 6 months ago off Ebay and they are actual Mopar IAC's.

That would be awesome, Rick. I’ll shoot you a part number.

 

[Wildman]

Part # for the Dodge IAC is 53030657AC

 

[Mike_H]

Part # for the Dodge IAC is 53030657AC

View attachment 506124

That looks similar, but different. The connector on the 4.0 comes straight out the back, not turned 90 degrees. Might still work, but it’s not, “the same.”

 

[Wildman]

That looks similar, but different. The connector on the 4.0 comes straight out the back, not turned 90 degrees. Might still work, but it’s not, “the same.”

Bummer

 

[Mike_H]

Started on installing my rear corner armor tonight. Got the tub stripped of the hinges, taillights, tailgate, tire carrier, and flares.

Next step is get the thing clean! I also have a small dent under the passenger door that I want to pull out.

Couple weeks ago, I deburred the corners from GenRight. Holding them up today, I’ll still need to do some work. I noticed the holes for the taillight wires are not big enough to pass the connectors through. They also need a fair bit of sanding to get the scratches from mfg and sanding out. Looks like they will fit nicely with my sliders, which is a nice surprise. I was worried about that part.

 

[JMT]

Started on installing my rear corner armor tonight. Got the tub stripped of the hinges, taillights, tailgate, tire carrier, and flares.

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Next step is get the thing clean! I also have a small dent under the passenger door that I want to pull out.

Couple weeks ago, I deburred the corners from GenRight. Holding them up today, I’ll still need to do some work. I noticed the holes for the taillight wires are not big enough to pass the connectors through. They also need a fair bit of sanding to get the scratches from mfg and sanding out. Looks like they will fit nicely with my sliders, which is a nice surprise. I was worried about that part.

Mine lined up perfectly with the slider too. Like they were made to be. Should look great.

 

[Mike_H]

Cleaned the quarters up tonight after work. Got the drivers side clamped up and it just fell into place. Nearly perfect fit.

I got the holes in the tub drilled, I marked where I need to cut the wheel openings wider, and marked my flares.

I feel like there should be a few more mounting screws though…before I pull it off, could someone chime in? I’ve read a bunch of threads, and I think the extra holes should be around the bottom of the armor.

 

[Irun]

Cleaned the quarters up tonight after work. Got the drivers side clamped up and it just fell into place. Nearly perfect fit.

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I got the holes in the tub drilled, I marked where I need to cut the wheel openings wider, and marked my flares.

I feel like there should be a few more mounting screws though…before I pull it off, could someone chime in? I’ve read a bunch of threads, and I think the extra holes should be around the bottom of the armor.

I had one more on the front side of the rear wheel wells.

 

[FarFire70]

Cleaned the quarters up tonight after work. Got the drivers side clamped up and it just fell into place. Nearly perfect fit.

View attachment 515605

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I got the holes in the tub drilled, I marked where I need to cut the wheel openings wider, and marked my flares.

I feel like there should be a few more mounting screws though…before I pull it off, could someone chime in? I’ve read a bunch of threads, and I think the extra holes should be around the bottom of the armor.

Great work! Alignment looks awesome!

I'll be watching because y'all are getting me closer to thinking this is a purchase on my horizon. Look forward to watching your install.

Are you building aluminum backing plate inside the bed or did you buy the GR steel backing plate?

Appreciate if you document any specific tools you used for this task to inform us future installers...

 

[Mike_H]

Great work! Alignment looks awesome!

I'll be watching because y'all are getting me closer to thinking this is a purchase on my horizon. Look forward to watching your install.

Are you building aluminum backing plate inside the bed or did you buy the GR steel backing plate?

Appreciate if you document any specific tools you used for this task to inform us future installers...

I have the Genright backers and I wish I had just bought some aluminum. The GenRight version uses the three back bolts along the top (of 5) and the second from the front is unsupported. The front one is right in the b-pillar area so its not possible (or necessary) to get a backer there. I will extend the backer the necessary amount to pick up the fourth hole.

The only really special tools you need are LOTS of clamps and the Blair Rotobroach (3/8). Oh, and like every Jeep project, a bunch of patience and willingness to work on it until its right is the most important tool in your box.

 

[FarFire70]

I have the Genright backers and I wish I had just bought some aluminum. The GenRight version uses the three back bolts along the top (of 5) and the second from the front is unsupported. The front one is right in the b-pillar area so its not possible (or necessary) to get a backer there. I will extend the backer the necessary amount to pick up the fourth hole.

The only really special tools you need are LOTS of clamps and the Blair Rotobroach (3/8). Oh, and like every Jeep project, a bunch of patience and willingness to work on it until its right is the most important tool in your box.

Thanks. I picked up the Rotobroach after @hosejockey61 did his recent review of it.

I need to work on my clamp game for sure in prep for this. May need to see if the $$ is worth the spend on the name brand vs HF as I've cataloged a couple handfuls of the HF ones in various sizes. My c-clamp game is all hand-me-downs...

I've read the same on the GR backer. Most either modify it or go angled aluminum stock.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks. I picked up the Rotobroach after @hosejockey61 did his recent review of it.

I need to work on my clamp game for sure in prep for this. May need to see if the $$ is worth the spend on the name brand vs HF as I've cataloged a couple handfuls of the HF ones in various sizes. My c-clamp game is all hand-me-downs...

I've read the same on the GR backer. Most either modify it or go angled aluminum stock.

Don't buy clamps at HF. At least, not the ones with the quick release. If they have a standard C-clamp, that should be fine. You want to be able to put some serious pressure on some spots and you don't want to spring the clamp doing so.

 

[Mike_H]

Holy smokes was I busy today. Woke up early and started collecting my stuff around. Hit the hardware store, the metal store, and Worked on my motorhome project for a majority of the day (see update over there), but left myself some time this evening to work on the Jeep too.

While I was at the metal store, I picked up a couple more things for my armor project...

A piece of 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 48" long (I'll cut to the correct length) for the rear valence and a piece of 3/16" x 15 x 36 for a tailgate panel. Holy crap aluminum is expensive...

I also decided where and how many holes to add. I looked at a bunch of pictures and looked at a printed copy of the Savvy Corner Armor instructions (Yes, they do exist, if you know where to look). I added five more holes...That one by the lower rear fender opening is moved back toward the corner for a reason. I will be cutting about an inch and a half of aluminum out of the wheel arch, since I had to cut my tub wheels arches to clear my tires.

Feel pretty good about these locations. Should hold the armor to the tub very tightly. With the addition of the valence, I should be able to stand this thing up on its Spare Tire and not worry about too much damage! Next up is to pull the Driver's side off, and mount up the Pass side. I hope it goes as well as the Driver's but I have my doubts. The Pass side looks like it got hit by a shopping cart or something before I bought it. It has a sharp dimple under the door (that I couldn't pull out with screws in my 3/16" Steel Sliders ) and the area by the b-pillar is ever so slightly concave. I may pull my slider and use some zip screws and a slide hammer to try and pull the dent out...We'll see how good I can make everything come together with the clamps.

I also did a little bit of fab work. I extended the backers another 9 3/4" to pick up the 4th hole in the armor. I didn't have any 1 x 1 3/16 angle laying around, but I did have a 20'ish x 5'ish piece of 3/16 sheet...

One cut to allow me to bend it, then weld it at a 90.

And one more cut to give me a piece of 1 x 1 angle. Then I cut my single piece into two pieces 9 3/4 long and welded them to the GenRight backers...

Kinda wish I'd have thought about this a little more before I welded them, tho...The Outside of the angle needs to be flat (since it goes against the flat tub...That means I'm going to have to grind my welds down where the two pieces are butt joined.

Slow progress, but progress nonetheless. I've had the corner armor since January!

 

[FarFire70]

Don't buy clamps at HF. At least, not the ones with the quick release. If they have a standard C-clamp, that should be fine. You want to be able to put some serious pressure on some spots and you don't want to spring the clamp doing so.

I suspected as much on the soft-foot/quick release clamps from HF... Gotta try some name brand to compare.

I figure they would be good for initial placement but metal vice-grip styles will be the go-to for the final install/drilling.

 

[Mike_H]

Got the Passenger side fitted up and clamped in today. As suspected, it was a bit tougher than the Driver's Side. When I had the bolt holes lined up in the rear, the fit to the slider was off. Thankfully, it was sitting too high on the tub as I got closer to the door, so I knew I could remove some material and get it to fit.

In the picture above, you can see I used a compass as a divider to trace a line on the Aluminum Armor that is parallel to the top of the slider. I then measured the gap at the pointy end of the armor with a feeler gage (0.085"). Next, I used the feeler gage at the same "setting" to mark the rear corner of the armor where it meets the slider (the rear corner is holding it up). I used a very fine scribe and steel ruler to draw from the new mark at the back to the bottom of the armor at the little point. As a double check, I made sure the new line I drew was parallel to the one I traced with my compass.

It was so I took a deep breath and got to work. I used a flap wheel on my grinder to get it close, then a file to finish it off with a nice, straight line.

The result...

You can also see some of the damage to the Tub I talked about in an earlier post. At this point, I'm not going to make this project bigger than it already is and leave it. I clamped the armor down tight, and I have about a 1/8 Difference in "level" of armor...I am eventually going to paint this thing, so I'll take care of that adjustment when I have to pull everything off anyway.

The armor fits pretty great everywhere else. Revels are nice and even, and the bolt holes in the armor line up with the existing bolt holes in the tub.

I need to drill all my mounting holes and since I use a tub mounted, swing away tire carrier, I'll need to locate and drill those holes too. Also need to located and drill the holes for my flares.

 

[Mike_H]

Sorry for the delay in posts. I’ve been in the Dominican Republic for the last week (and enjoyed every minute). My wife and I were celebrating our 20 year anniversary. We got married there in 2004. Anyway, we got back early (like 130 am) Wednesday morning. I took Wednesday off work to recover and that gave me some time to finish drilling holes and getting the armor fit properly.

The last thing to do was open my wheel well up to match what I’ve cut into my tub. With 35’s and where I have my axle positioned, I removed about an inch and a half of material from the rear of my wheel wells. The same modification had to be done to the armor.

When I cut the tub, I didn’t do a great job keeping it even between sides. On the passenger side, I cut a bit deeper than what I had on the drivers side. Without armor, it wasn’t a big deal. I planned and have cut holes to install a few screw along the wheel wells (which Genright doesn’t think is necessary). This will anchor the full perimeter of the armor around the tub. I started on the drivers side, and transferred those new holes to the passenger side. Well, with the inconsistency in the tub cut between sides, one hole in the armor missed the tub. I fixed that tonight. I had some 18ga galvaneal left over from my rust repair on my old tub. I cut up a small piece of it and welded it in the approximate place I will need to attach the armor.

Here is the small piece, prepped to weld

And, after I welded and ground the welds down. I wasn’t super particular about this, since it will all be covered up by both armor and fender flares. The pencil line is my assumed cut line. I’ll install the armor one more time to get my actual cut line.

With all the fab work done, tonight I sanded the A surface of the armor with 320 grit, cleaned really well, and sprayed some automotive grade self-etching primer. It layed down really nicely. Remember, I plan on using vinyl wrap to cover these. I wanted to get something on to prevent the aluminum from oxidizing and allowing the vinyl adhesive to let go.

I can't wait to get this project finished up. I'm really happy with how its going. I'll probably take a break after I finish this step and focus on the motorhome. We'll see. I do have a piece of Al to cover the tailgate and a piece to go over the valence as well.

 

[rasband]

and a piece to go over the valence as well

Did you do a wider piece that ties the corners and valence together, or something like the GR/Savvy skin?

 

[Mike_H]

Did you do a wider piece that ties the corners and valence together, or something like the GR/Savvy skin?

Wider piece like Blaine and Josh have done. I really liked the idea of sinking some lights in there, so I’m copying them shamelessly.