Adding 1.5 inch puck to lift as well as a 1.25 inch body lift

[Sensei]

Currently running on 3 inches suspension lift with 33s. I'm planning to upgrade to 35s soon, as that's what I geared my HP Dana 30 and Ford 8.8 to handle (4.56 gears, 3 spd auto). My shocks are the Rancho RS5000x, speced for 3.5 inches of lift. I'm thinking to fit the 35's, I want to add a 1 - 1.5 inch puck to my current springs, as well as installing 1.25 inch BL at the same time.

Now, I know when people install body lifts, you have to drop the radiator to compensate for that increase in lift. I've also heard of people doing a motor mount lift, and tummy tuck at the same time, as to not need to adjust the radiator. I currently have my t-case dropped 1 inch, although I now have a SYE and dual cv driveshaft, so I don't believe I need it anymore. If I do all 3 of these jobs at the same (including the removal of the t-case drop, and subsequent tucking of it) am I going to run into any issues that I haven't mentioned? Or does my planning sound like i've covered all my basis?

 

[cpwolf]

Currently running on 3 inches suspension lift with 33s. I'm planning to upgrade to 35s soon, as that's what I geared my HP Dana 30 and Ford 8.8 to handle (4.56 gears, 3 spd auto). My shocks are the Rancho RS5000x, speced for 3.5 inches of lift. I'm thinking to fit the 35's, I want to add a 1 - 1.5 inch puck to my current springs, as well as installing 1.25 inch BL at the same time.

Now, I know when people install body lifts, you have to drop the radiator to compensate for that increase in lift. I've also heard of people doing a motor mount lift, and tummy tuck at the same time, as to not need to adjust the radiator. I currently have my t-case dropped 1 inch, although I now have a SYE and dual cv driveshaft, so I don't believe I need it anymore. If I do all 3 of these jobs at the same (including the removal of the t-case drop, and subsequent tucking of it) am I going to run into any issues that I haven't mentioned? Or does my planning sound like i've covered all my basis?

So many on here say going to a 4" suspension and 1.25" Body Lift is perfect for 35's. 3" springs and 1inch spacer provide that with the 1.25" BL.

If you have an SYE as you stated, and adjustable CA's, the TC drop should be gone. It should have been gone right away so that you can adjust the pinion angle without the TC drop in place.

I don't believe you need to drop the radiator, that is only connected to the rest of the TJ with hoses. You need to adjust the Fan Shroud that is connected there to the radiator, unless I'm mistaken. If you did a body lift and a motor lift of the same height, that would offset the need to lower the fan shroud, I believe. The tuck I'm not experienced with personally. The CV and SYE should be fine for doing that.

 

[Sensei]

So many on here say going to a 4" suspension and 1.25" Body Lift is perfect for 35's. 3" springs and 1inch spacer provide that with the 1.25" BL.

If you have an SYE as you stated, and adjustable CA's, the TC drop should be gone. It should have been gone right away so that you can adjust the pinion angle without the TC drop in place.

I don't believe you need to drop the radiator, that is only connected to the rest of the TJ with hoses. You need to adjust the Fan Shroud that is connected there to the radiator, unless I'm mistaken. If you did a body lift and a motor lift of the same height, that would offset the need to lower the fan shroud, I believe. The tuck I'm not experienced with personally. The CV and SYE should be fine for doing that.

I do not have adjustable control arms yet, but the control arm mounts were welded on my axles with the 3 inch lift in mind, setting pinion angle to point directly at the tcase. I guess lifting the suspension an additional inch would effect that angle, so adjustable control arms might be in order.

Speaking of adjustable control arms, do they help offset the decrease in wheelbase when lifting a vehicle? I was just thinking about my front driveshaft, and I recall having a relatively tough time installing it because it's essentially bottomed all the way out. Would increasing the lift in the front an additional inch cause that to shorten even more, ie leading to binding and other issues?

 

[Lubbockguy1979]

Deleted post

 

[Lubbockguy1979]

Deleted post

 

[Sensei]

I havr had a 3" body lift before. I would not recommend it on a vehicle that will be flexing alot. I also wouldnt recommend stacking bodylifts. If you do go 3" i would use 3" pucks or a kit. There is alot of stress on the body and hardware adding in body spacers that could move independently would just make this worse. I personally would look at spring spacers or springs if you already have a body lift

I currently have no BL, I would be adding 1.25 inches only. I currently have 3 inches of suspension lift, to which I want to add a 1-1.5 inch puck. This would bring me to 5.25-5.75 inches of total lift.

 

[Lubbockguy1979]

I currently have no BL, I would be adding 1.25 inches only. I currently have 3 inches of suspension lift, to which I want to add a 1-1.5 inch puck. This would bring me to 5.25-5.75 inches of total lift.

I reread your post and realized that, im sorry. I tried to delete or edit the post but could not modify it. New to this forum but been apart of multiple other forums in the past. This one is a bit clunky

 

[cpwolf]

I do not have adjustable control arms yet, but the control arm mounts were welded on my axles with the 3 inch lift in mind, setting pinion angle to point directly at the tcase. I guess lifting the suspension an additional inch would effect that angle, so adjustable control arms might be in order.

Speaking of adjustable control arms, do they help offset the decrease in wheelbase when lifting a vehicle? I was just thinking about my front driveshaft, and I recall having a relatively tough time installing it because it's essentially bottomed all the way out. Would increasing the lift in the front an additional inch cause that to shorten even more, ie leading to binding and other issues?

So you’re beyond my expertise, as I have not dealt with welding different CA brackets to change pinion angle.

Bottomed out front DS is not good, I’d take that out asap. That’s hammering into the TC for sure. Would lift change that, yes, some, hard to say exactly. It shouldn’t be bottomed out now.

The adjustable CAs would definitely let you adjust your wheel to center, which would help with that yes, but you probably need to measure and get your DS adjusted as well.

Others may have better suggestions or knowledge on that

 

[Sensei]

So you’re beyond my expertise, as I have not dealt with welding different CA brackets to change pinion angle.

Bottomed out front DS is not good, I’d take that out asap. That’s hammering into the TC for sure. Would lift change that, yes, some, hard to say exactly. It shouldn’t be bottomed out now.

The adjustable CAs would definitely let you adjust your wheel to center, which would help with that yes, but you probably need to measure and get your DS adjusted as well.

Others may have better suggestions or knowledge on that

I didn't build the axles myself xD

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into doing something about that front ds. I think the issue is I swapped the front axle in exchange for a high pinion dana 30, and the connection point is higher, thus making the required driveshaft length needed shorter.

 

[cpwolf]

I didn't build the axles myself xD

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into doing something about that front ds. I think the issue is I swapped the front axle in exchange for a high pinion dana 30, and the connection point is higher, thus making the required driveshaft length needed shorter.

Yeah, I'd get that out and measure. You can get a DS place to cut and balance, or look to Tom Wood's DS and they make them, great quality, I have my front DS is TW's and if you went to a high pinion, and it's short, that's hammering the drive train for sure.