Adding new Tom Woods drive shaft

Planepal

Planepal

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My 2004 TJ Rubicon was lifted 3 inches by the previous owner with a pro mod lift kit but it still has the stock drive shafts.I’m getting some minor vibration while accelerating which disappears as soon as I push in the clutch. No worn U-joints etc. I am ordering a new Tom Woods double Cardan drive shaft. My current dive shaft angle is 14 degrees and the pinion angle is 6 degrees. I’m assuming I’ll Need to raise the pinion angle when I install the new drive shaft. It has adjustable lower control arms and the stock upper arms. Is it okay to make the adjustment via the lower control arms or do I need to buy adjustable upper control arms. So what should my angles be on the new install? Lots of YouTube videos out there but lots of varying info. Thanks in advance.

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Looks like you have stock upper control Arms. Replace those with Adjustable uppers and use both upper and lower to adjust pinion angle to -1* Will probably get rid of your vibes and not need to buy a new drive shaft. New shaft could have the same vibes because your pinion angle is off. New drive shaft Might only fix your current vibes if your current ujoints are bad. most likely won't fix anything.
 
I'd use adjustable length upper control arms to raise the pinion angle. The suspension lift decreases the wheelbase and raising the pinion angle by shortening the lower arms would further shorten it. Lengthening the upper arms to raise the pinion angle would roll the axle back helping to restore/increase the wheelbase.
 
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You can adjust it with the lowers it is just nicer in some regards to have adjustable uppers.
 
It seems you still want the pinion to angle slightly down in regards to its relation to the drive shaft angle so the rear universal joint is not perfectly straight. Since I’m replacing the upper control arms, I would think you’d put a slight amount of pressure on the differential to take the pressure off the control arm bolts. Remove the old arms, Then Jack the differential up to set the pinion angle and then install the new upper control arms. Does that sound about right?
 
It's easier if you use a quality double adjustable arm like Currie, then just bolt them in and twist while you monitor the angle until it's where you want it, then lock the adjuster down. No remove/adjust/reinstall like a single adjustable. You'll also find no love for Rough Country here, widely considered to be the bottom of the barrel. You are correct that you want some angle in the pinion, -1* as stated before. This is to account for axle.... something. Brain fart, can't think of the term, roast me as needed. It's where the axle wants to rotate the pinion up under load, so you compensate for that by setting the pinion the other direction so it's straight on under load.
 
Planepal said:
My 2004 TJ Rubicon was lifted 3 inches by the previous owner with a pro mod lift kit but it still has the stock drive shafts.I’m getting some minor vibration while accelerating which disappears as soon as I push in the clutch. No worn U-joints etc. I am ordering a new Tom Woods double Cardan drive shaft. My current dive shaft angle is 14 degrees and the pinion angle is 6 degrees. I’m assuming I’ll Need to raise the pinion angle when I install the new drive shaft. It has adjustable lower control arms and the stock upper arms. Is it okay to make the adjustment via the lower control arms or do I need to buy adjustable upper control arms. So what should my angles be on the new install? Lots of YouTube videos out there but lots of varying info. Thanks in advance.

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Hey welcome to the forum! @kmas0n and I are in Sedona. I go wheeling pretty often in my TJ
 
Foxhound67 said:
It's easier if you use a quality double adjustable arm like Currie, then just bolt them in and twist while you monitor the angle until it's where you want it, then lock the adjuster down. No remove/adjust/reinstall like a single adjustable. You'll also find no love for Rough Country here, widely considered to be the bottom of the barrel. You are correct that you want some angle in the pinion, -1* as stated before. This is to account for axle.... something. Brain fart, can't think of the term, roast me as needed. It's where the axle wants to rotate the pinion up under load, so you compensate for that by setting the pinion the other direction so it's straight on under load.
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Jamison C said:
Hey welcome to the forum! @kmas0n and I are in Sedona. I go wheeling pretty often in my TJ
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Cool! Stop by sometime. After the last roundabout going up to Jerome, I’m the next road on the left after the botanical garden. Top of the hill with the flags flying.
 
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Thanks for all the needed advice. I canceled the rough country control arms and went with a pair of Savvy double adjustable rear upper arms. The bushings (Johnny Joints) seem a lot sturdier. I just wish they had brackets for the emergency brake cable on the left and the brake line on the right side like the stock arms do. I’ll probably fabricate brackets and use a hose clamp to attach them.
 
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Planepal said:
Thanks for all the needed advice. I canceled the rough country control arms and went with a pair of Savvy double adjustable rear upper arms. The bushings (Johnny Joints) seem a lot sturdier. I just wish they had brackets for the emergency brake cable on the left and the brake line on the right side like the stock arms do. I’ll probably fabricate brackets and use a hose clamp to attach them.
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I'm not sure that I have ever seen aftermarket control arm with brackets for the parking brake cables. I have always just used good quality nylon zip ties there.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I'm not sure that I have ever seen aftermarket control arm with brackets for the parking brake cables. I have always just used good quality nylon zip ties there.
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After I moved on from stock CA's I just put the brake cable over the upper CA. I've never seen a need for a zip tie or bracket. Am I missing something important? I can't see the point.
 
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Starting with adjustable control-arms will probably fix your problem.

Tom Woods makes great drive-shafts, but if you are going to go down that path you might as well do it right and install a slip-yoke eliminator in your transfer-case and fix the excessive pinion-angle once and for all.
 
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