Adjusting an adjustable track bar

JeepZilla380

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I read a few good posts by Jerry on other forums but had a question. Is it better/easier to remove the frame side or axle side of the front and rear track bars to adjust them. My track bars are MetalCloak if that makes a difference and the jam nuts are are at the Frame side.

Thanks!
 
I read a few good posts by Jerry on other forums but had a question. Is it better/easier to remove the frame side or axle side of the front and rear track bars to adjust them. My track bars are MetalCloak if that makes a difference and the jam nuts are are at the Frame side.

Thanks!

Since Metalcloak front track bar's instructions say to install the driver side first, then the passenger side, I would recommend removing the opposite way, so remove the passenger side first.

For the rear track bar, the instructions call for the frame side to be installed secondly, so I would first remove the frame side first.

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Generally speaking it is easier to remove the axle-side of the track bar to adjust its length. That's how I have always done it so X2 to the above.
 
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Generally speaking it is easier to remove the axle-side of the track bar to adjust its length. That's how I have always done it so X2 to the above.

Thanks Jerry, that’s what I was hoping as well, seems a lot easier.


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So disconnect the axle side, jump up and down on the bumpers, re-adjust and torque it all back to spec. After fighting the control arm adjustments I’ve been putting of the track bars but this seems pretty easy.


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This topic is timely for me. Just installed a MetalCloak rear track bar and I'm waiting for delivery of the front from MC. So that is how you adjust/square the axles up, disconnect the adjustment ends and cycle the suspension then adjust and re-torque? Front and back at the same time or separately?
 
This topic is timely for me. Just installed a MetalCloak rear track bar and I'm waiting for delivery of the front from MC. So that is how you adjust/square the axles up, disconnect the adjustment ends and cycle the suspension then adjust and re-torque? Front and back at the same time or separately?

Hey Rusty, I was thinking to do the opposite, disconnect the axle side. The frame side is a bear to get to and torque back due to the nut location. You’d still have to loose the jam nut at the frame side. From what I have seen one at a time. So disconnect the front, bounce, adjust and hook back up, and the rear. Hoping to give this a try if I don’t get hit with too many honey do’s today.


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Hey Rusty, I was thinking to do the opposite, disconnect the axle side. The frame side is a bear to get to and torque back due to the nut location. You’d still have to loose the jam nut at the frame side. From what I have seen one at a time. So disconnect the front, bounce, adjust and hook back up, and the rear. Hoping to give this a try if I don’t get hit with too many honey do’s today.

But the concept is that bouncing up and down on the suspension while either track bar is disconnected squares up/centers that axle? I've not researched this yet, but I need to understand it. New front trackbar should be on its way next week. Doing the Moog ZJ upgrade and new steering stabilizer upgrade too. Installed the new rear trackbar a couple of weeks ago when I did my lift. I still need to do the post-lift alignment as well, but I've been waiting for all these parts to trickle in so I can do it one time . . . Thanks for the help!

I'm working on my bumper mod today - paint and winch plate mock up. I have a new Warn M8000S in the back of the truck that I'm itching to get hooked up. Also have fluids and u-joints to change and need to paint the Moog tie rod . . . full weekend in the garage/driveway for me!
 
But the concept is that bouncing up and down on the suspension while either track bar is disconnected squares up/centers that axle?
Doing that can't square up the axle since that is affected by control arm lengths but jumping up & down on the bumper can help the springs to center the axle left-to-right under the Jeep. It works well enough for the majority of situations. Once the axle self-centers, just adjust the track bar length so it bolts up. Keeping in mind the axle constantly moves left-right as the suspension moves up & down so it's not critical.
 
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Fantastic! Thank you very much Jerry. Control arms are still stock and fixed. I haven't messed with them other than to disconnect the front lowers to install my spacer lift and bolt them back up.

Again, gracias. Appreciate the reply. You guys are great.
Doing that can't square up the axle since that is affected by control arm lengths but jumping up & down on the bumper can help the springs to center it left-to-right under the Jeep. It works well enough for the majority of situations. Once the axle self-centers, just adjust the track bar length so it bolts up. Keeping in mind the axle constantly moves left-right as the suspension moves up & down so it's not critical.

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Just took a closer look at my LJ; pretty sure I could adjust the front by undoing the lower axle side, but dang if the back is cramped to matter what side I choose. Might go frame side since it seems like I won’t have room to spin the whole track bar to lengthen or shorten.


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So after a 3 1/2” lift install ( MetalCloak but don’t criticize!) my front axle was shifted almost two inches to passenger’s side. This required a ratchet strap and quite a bit of tension to get the track bar in its mount and track bar adjusted to shortest setting. Lower control arms adjusted to same length.
Any thoughts on correcting as the track bar is pretty tight!