Another Locker, Axle, and Brakes Post! Help Me Connect the Dots

Rick Brewsler

Rick Brewsler

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Thanks in advance for any help on this. I'm trying to make smart upgrade decisions while planning for the future.

My Jeep is a 2004 Sport. I've got a 4.7L Stoker and a 5 speed manual trans. Just regeared from 3.73 to 4.88s (only got to drive it 3 miles since the regear as it's currently in storage for the winter). Dana 30/Dana 44 combo. On 35's with a 4" lift.

So, my plan is to add Ox locker(s), Chromoly shafts on front, and the Black Magic big break kit as I get the cash, not necessarily in that order.

I'll happily take your thoughts/opinions on any of this stuff, but here are the specific questions I am posting about,

I have an open front diff and factory limited slip in the rear. I do a lot of mudding and sandy trails on the weekend, but in the summer I DD it as well. I often lose traction in the deep stuff and would like to do at least one locker, I was thinking about putting it in the front Dana 30 and adding chromoly shafts to reinforce the axle some, and then keep the limited slip in the rear Dana 44 for daily driving (sometimes in snow, but not a lot). What do you guys think? Would this make sense for mudding and sand? I don't really do any rock climbing... yet. Should I give up the limited slip and put selectables on the rear, or maybe both, and just run open when I'm on daily driving?

Secondly, there are a lot of options for the big break kit, I have disc breaks front and rear. I know Black Magic breaks are popular here, what configuration have you guys used? As far as I can tell, the duel piston calipers seem to be for the front, but what about the rear? BM break pads and rotor combo? Just the pads? Leave the back alone? Maybe I missed a rear caliper option? If I get breaks before the chromoly shafts, would the new shafts affect the break setup that I should install?

Sorry if any of this doesn't make sense, this is my first off road build and I'm learning a ton as i go. Also, apologies for another post on the same ol' topic, belive me I've read them all!

Thanks again for any advice on these things, you guys are always great!

Rick
 
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Just IMHO, if you’re gonna have an aggressive build with 35s, you should go all out on axles and lockers. Go all in. Don’t cut corners. But that’s just my philosophy. I understand this stuff ain’t cheap.
 
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jazngab said:
Just IMHO, if you’re gonna have an aggressive build with 35s, you should go all out on axles and lockers. Go all in. Don’t cut corners. But that’s just my philosophy. I understand this stuff ain’t cheap.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I have no intention on cutting any corners, even if it means I have to wait a little longer. I am also an "all in" type of guy.

Would you mind expanding on what you mean by "going all in"? I honestly don't know anything about axles, and learning as I go, so I'm not even sure what all is available for beefing up this part of the Jeep. I've seen a lot about Ox lockers being bullet proof, and about the chromoly shafts, and that the black magic breaks are the best, but beyond that I'm not really sure what else is available.

Again, thanks for the reply.
 
Rick Brewsler said:
Thanks for the reply. I have no intention on cutting any corners, even if it means I have to wait a little longer. I am also an "all in" type of guy.

Would you mind expanding on what you mean by "going all in"? I honestly don't know anything about axles, and learning as I go, so I'm not even sure what all is available for beefing up this part of the Jeep. I've seen a lot about Ox lockers being bullet proof, and about the chromoly shafts, and that the black magic breaks are the best, but beyond that I'm not really sure what else is available.

Again, thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

From the info you gave, you have a bigger engine, big lift, big tires. I would have either a Dana 44 or super 35 in the rear with upgraded chromoly axle shafts both front and rear. Selectable lockers preferably in both. Although lunchbox lockers are much less expensive. I myself have a lunchbox in the front and once I have my Dana 44 installed, a LSD in the rear. I'd love to have selectable lockers but they are very expensive. I'm no expert by any means but this is from reading multiple threads on this forum. The key is to build it for your use and your use only. Not to overbuild and spend money frivolously. RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!
 
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You prob would have saved some money on labor if you did the regear and lockers at the same time too.
 
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Regarding the brakes, focus on the fronts as they're where something like 70-75% of the braking comes from. The brake proportioning valve actually reduces the pressure sent to the rear brakes so they won't lock up during a hard stop which unweights the rear tires making it easier for the rear brakes to lock and cause a slide/skid. So the potential rear braking performance is purposely reduced to prevent the rear brakes from locking up, improving the rear braking just won't help.

You can't do better than Black Magic Brake's Big Brake kit which I've run in two TJs. It replaces the OE single-piston calipers with dual-piston calipers which means it can provide more "squeezing" force over a larger surface area of the brake pads. That plus the amazing Black Magic pads makes for significantly improved braking. The kit also includes new knuckles for the dual piston calipers to mount to.
 
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jazngab said:
From the info you gave, you have a bigger engine, big lift, big tires. I would have either a Dana 44 or super 35 in the rear with upgraded chromoly axle shafts both front and rear. Selectable lockers preferably in both. Although lunchbox lockers are much less expensive. I myself have a lunchbox in the front and once I have my Dana 44 installed, a LSD in the rear. I'd love to have selectable lockers but they are very expensive. I'm no expert by any means but this is from reading multiple threads on this forum. The key is to build it for your use and your use only. Not to overbuild and spend money frivolously. RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!
Click to expand...


Yep, sounds like were on the same page. What you have here is pretty much as far as I am with it as well, but I've seen mention of other things you can do to an axle besides shafts (sleeves, gussets, HD U-joints, etc).

Trust me, I am a heavy researcher when it comes to any major purchase. I've read all the posts and many articles and videos. This question is just part of my research as well.

Anyway, thank for the feedback, I agree with everything you said, and appreciate it!

The biggest thing that I'm still torn on is doing the selectable in the back (Dana 44)... It's like you said, I've got to build it for me, and I'm not convinced I want to give up my LSD as I daily drive it in the spring, summer, and fall, occasionally in snow, and I'm not trying to climb rocks, just to be able to get through the deep mud and sand when I want.

Thanks again!
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Regarding the brakes, focus on the fronts as they're where something like 70-75% of the braking comes from. The brake proportioning valve actually reduces the pressure sent to the rear brakes so they won't lock up during a hard stop which unweights the rear tires making it easier for the rear brakes to lock and cause a slide/skid. So the potential rear braking performance is purposely reduced to prevent the rear brakes from locking up, improving the rear braking just won't help.

You can't do better than Black Magic Brake's Big Brake kit which I've run in two TJs. It replaces the OE single-piston calipers with dual-piston calipers which means it can provide more "squeezing" force over a larger surface area of the brake pads. That plus the amazing Black Magic pads makes for significantly improved braking. The kit also includes new knuckles for the dual piston calipers to mount to.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Thanks a lot for the reply.

This clears up any questions/concerns I've had nicely and only thing left to do is place an order!! Sooner than later I hope.
 
Rick Brewsler said:
Yep, sounds like were on the same page. What you have here is pretty much as far as I am with it as well, but I've seen mention of other things you can do to an axle besides shafts (sleeves, gussets, HD U-joints, etc).

Trust me, I am a heavy researcher when it comes to any major purchase. I've read all the posts and many articles and videos. This question is just part of my research as well.

Anyway, thank for the feedback, I agree with everything you said, and appreciate it!

The biggest thing that I'm still torn on is doing the selectable in the back (Dana 44)... It's like you said, I've got to build it for me, and I'm not convinced I want to give up my LSD as I daily drive it in the spring, summer, and fall, occasionally in snow, and I'm not trying to climb rocks, just to be able to get through the deep mud and sand when I want.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

If its mostly street driving with some off roading (which is my situation as well) then id say stick with the LSDs and put a locker in the front (auto or selectable). That should get you by with the type of off roading you describe you'll be doing. But with 35s I would def upgrade to chromoly shafts. I don't believe you'll need sleeves or gussets but I could be wrong. New u joints should already be installed with the new shafts when ordered I believe.
 
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jazngab said:
If its mostly street driving with some off roading (which is my situation as well) then id say stick with the LSDs and put a locker in the front (auto or selectable). That should get you by with the type of off roading you describe you'll be doing. But with 35s I would def upgrade to chromoly shafts. I don't believe you'll need sleeves or gussets but I could be wrong. New u joints should already be installed with the new shafts when ordered I believe.
Click to expand...

thank you
 
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Half the battle is when you look at a regear. Then look at doing selectable locker carriers, replace the axle shafts to do the super builds, front and rear there is really no way to do it for under 4K. There’s also the hidden expenses. May as well do ball joints and wheel bearings while you’re in there.
 
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ErikOffroad said:
Half the battle is when you look at a regear. Then look at doing selectable locker carriers, replace the axle shafts to do the super builds, front and rear there is really no way to do it for under 4K. There’s also the hidden expenses. May as well do ball joints and wheel bearings while you’re in there.
Click to expand...

It seems like everything costs 4K when it comes to Jeeps. Need new windshield wipers? That'll be 4K!
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Regarding the brakes, focus on the fronts as they're where something like 70-75% of the braking comes from. The brake proportioning valve actually reduces the pressure sent to the rear brakes so they won't lock up during a hard stop which unweights the rear tires making it easier for the rear brakes to lock and cause a slide/skid. So the potential rear braking performance is purposely reduced to prevent the rear brakes from locking up, improving the rear braking just won't help.

You can't do better than Black Magic Brake's Big Brake kit which I've run in two TJs. It replaces the OE single-piston calipers with dual-piston calipers which means it can provide more "squeezing" force over a larger surface area of the brake pads. That plus the amazing Black Magic pads makes for significantly improved braking. The kit also includes new knuckles for the dual piston calipers to mount to.
Click to expand...

Just wanted to double check before i place my order. I have disk breaks front and back, does that change anything regarding your break hardware advice?
 
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