OP
Another stripped E12 thread
- Thread starter jeep_boss
- Start date
not horrible, but looks like you may have a slight rear main seal leak or valve cover leak or both.
OP
Cheers to both you and @CodaMan!
Now as for the chatter in my bell housing, I'm guessing it was because the pivot ball stud was disconnected from the spring clip on the fork? I snagged the last 2 clips from the Jeep dealership yesterday..
The TOB is still operable, no play in it - but it is getting replaced nonetheless.
There doesn't appear to be any lateral play in my input shaft eithet thank god.
Not as much mud in the bell housing as I thought there would be, but my clutch and flywheel are both pretty dirty (both are getting replaced, and I have a Timken pilot bearing going in too).
If you are getting chatter most likely it is a warped flywheel. Good thing you are replacing it.
OP
OP
I actually need to go back and get a set of ~3" bolts for putting the transmission back in. I read a post on another forum where someone recommended cutting the heads off some longer bolts to connect to the motor, and using them as guides for the transmission. We'll see how that goes soon..
Couldn't hurt and remember what I said about putting it in 4th gear that will lock your output shaft to the input shaft so if you turn it ever so slowly while you are pushing it in it will slip right in with your guide pins also put your guide pins where your dowel/sleaves are. You Got This!
OP
OP
Here is a shot of the clutch area. Pretty disgusting, but this is what happens when you bury a Jeep in mud and clay like the previous owner apparently did with mine..
Fortunatey, this should be the very last of that crap that has clung to this thing since I took ownership.
Fortunatey, this should be the very last of that crap that has clung to this thing since I took ownership.
I have had clutches that i buried probably up at your neighborhood so deep those fingers were partially pressed in because there was so much mud packed in there. lol You can get them pretty gross. I have seen a few.
For future reference, we rarely swap out the E-Torx for standard bolts because we don't have a problem with them. The long stack of 3/8" extensions is a valuable lesson for those considering rear axle shaft upgrades. Lots of folks recommend 35 spline shafts for the Dana 44. If you try and break the top bell housing bolts loose with a 3/8" stack of extensions, you figure out pretty quickly that there is a lot of wind-up in the extensions before they start transferring force to the bolt. If you swap out to a long 1/2" drive extension, push forward a bit so there is no bounce and hit them with an impact, they pop right out. We've never had one not, and we've never stripped the head on one.
Also why 35 spline is a bad idea. They have much less give and springiness to them compared to the smaller stuff so they transfer impact loads upstream to the other bits in the drivetrain starting with the gear set and going upstream from there.
For the record, we pop the fan shroud loose, remove the t-case, and then lower the trans down until we have easy access to the upper bolts with a long extension. Then we jack it back up just enough to take the load off the input shaft and it slides right out.
Also why 35 spline is a bad idea. They have much less give and springiness to them compared to the smaller stuff so they transfer impact loads upstream to the other bits in the drivetrain starting with the gear set and going upstream from there.
For the record, we pop the fan shroud loose, remove the t-case, and then lower the trans down until we have easy access to the upper bolts with a long extension. Then we jack it back up just enough to take the load off the input shaft and it slides right out.
Spaztrick
Member
Man, this rain can go away just about any time. Congrats on accomplishing the extraction.
OP
OP
There is zero margin for error.
I started with a chain of 10" and 4" 1/2" drive extensions. They were very wobbly, and there was no way to get the 1/2" drive extensions to clear the top of the tub to seat on the bolt (they were way too fat). My Jeep has an RE lift, the skid plate crossmember seat made contact and blocked the tcase from dropping any further.
Then, giving up on the 1/2" extension chain - as soon as my impact hit the E12 with a chain of 1" Proto 3/8" extensions (one on the end was a shorter wobbly), the socket jumped and took a piece of the E12 with it.
In retrospect - and for the poor individual that lands on this thread from an Internet search, there only would have been a couple of options with the RE lift in place with the tcase still connected:
- Remove the tcase to lower the trans even lower to use extensions of your choice
- Use a single, very long (36") 3/8" drive extension
My Proto and $nap-On 3/8" universal swivel sockets were useless with the E12 heads being that far foward. I did get the other bolt off in one shot, with the 33" and a non-wobbly 4" 3/8" extension, and a 1/2" breaker bar with a 3/8" adapter. I used the tcase yoke as a pivot point for my breaker bar. Dangerous shit though! When it pops, your body doesn't have a lot of room to recover from the arm torque when the Jeep is on jack stands.
I did replace the E12 bolts with standard hex bolts. I did so, because (1) hardware stores don't sell them (Tacoma Screw sisn't carry them and Fastenal would have had to special order them) and (2) hex bolts provide much better options for removal than E-socket bolts.
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Resurrecting old thread with a thanks! Followed Blane's advice today and worked like a charm. Removed TCase (was not original plan) Long 1/2" extension, and 2 person job. I steadied the extension while my son used a breaker bar and they can right out. Decided to go gently before the impact gun. They came out easily and will go back in.
I think taking the TCase out first gave extra room and required less extension. The 1/2" Extension does not flex like a 3/8" - Thanks for leaving this solid advice...