Another stripped E12 thread

CodaMan said:
I don't know the correct angle, but I think if you were to keep all the bolts tight and remove those top two first the angle would be correct and they wouldn't be able bind.
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I meant the angle of the trans in relation to the motor to alleviate as much stress from the top two bolts. I still have the other E12 to contend with, so I am just trying to figure out how to minimize any extra tension.
 
jeep_boss said:
I meant the angle of the trans in relation to the motor to alleviate as much stress from the top two bolts. I still have the other E12 to contend with, so I am just trying to figure out how to minimize any extra tension.
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Yeah, I was hoping that keeping the others in would remove the stress. If they're already in, maybe loosening them will change the angle a reduce the bind.
 
jeep_boss said:
Probably going to cut a little 4x2" access hole in the floorboard so I can see where my Dremel is cutting. Totally sucks, but it is what it is.
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Just a suggestion .....
If you need to cut a hole in the floorboards, cut a larger one like the factory should have done. With a bit of skill and imagination, you could make it look like it was OEM. Seal it with a proper rubber gasket, and removable fasteners and paint.
 
Thankfully the 1 o'clock E12 bolt came out, I was able to use the t-case yoke as a pivot point with my 33" extension and my 1/2" breaker bar.

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Can't get the damn thing to separate now from the motor. I have read some onscure references to prying the motor off. Where would a pry point be and where the hell are the "guide pins" located?
 
jeep_boss said:
Can't get the damn thing to separate now from the motor. I have read some onscure references to prying the motor off. Where would a pry point be and where the hell are the "guide pins" located?
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Make sure you have all of the bolts out? are there any coming from the backside in? I haven't done this in a while so I can't remember. Also if you have a bind on the input shaft it may be holding you up. try wiggling up and down not side to side.
 
Spent about the last hour and a half or so raising, lowering, shaking, wiggling.. to no avail. I'm terrified of the thought of doing this, but I may have to use my Hi-Lift to pull it out.
 
jeep_boss said:
Spent about the last hour and a half or so raising, lowering, shaking, wiggling.. to no avail. I'm terrified of the thought of doing this, but I may have to use my Hi-Lift to pull it out.
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It also could be that your dowels are steel and your housings are aluminum so it could have corrosion in the holding it up. Your dowels will be on each side. You could politely hit a screwdriver in there and slightly see of you can pry it just to get it started but do not get over zealous we don't want to break anything. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to hit it wish some kind of penetration oil. on the sides where the trans meets the engine. just in case there is some corrosion.
 
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ac_ said:
It also could be that your dowels are steel and your housings are aluminum so it could have corrosion in the holding it up. Your dowels will be on each side. You could politely hit a screwdriver in there and slightly see of you can pry it just to get it started but do not get over zealous we don't want to break anything. Also wouldn't be a bad idea to hit it wish some kind of penetration oil. on the sides where the trans meets the engine. just in case there is some corrosion.
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Where are the "dowels" located? There no rust or corrosion anywhere on my Jeep, I'm pretty sure that it is just binding on the shaft - but again, I would like to know where the "guide pins" are located ... i don't see any signs from the bottom third of the separation between the transmission and bell housing plate, are they half way up, or on top somewhere?
 
Are you positive you got all of the bolts? Did you look to see if there were some coming from the engine side in?
 
jeep_boss said:
Yes of course, I am 5000% sure.
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Ok then do you see where those dowel/sleeves go? I know this bell looks slightly different than yours, but the dowels sleeves will be pretty close to the same place. The main bellhousing bolts on the sides is where the sleeves are. You can see how the hole is bigger then gets smaller halfway. That is where they are. wiggle it up and down not side to side. On either side try and hammer a screw drive in. Don't necessarily pry just getting it started will actually start prying it. Also if it is hanging, I know this sounds weird, but jack up the transmission to take some pressure off and wiggle it up and down. Use some of those muscles sir you got this!
 
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I finally got it to separate a little bit. It's still kind of hung up, but I think I can fiddle with the trans jacks on the oil pan and the onr undet the transmission to free it completely. I'm already "not" looking forward to getting it back in!
 
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Did you separate the TC? I didn't on mine but that will definitely make it easier to handle going back in. May be worth the extra work.
 
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jeep_boss said:
I finally got it to separate a little bit. It's still kind of hung up, but I think I can fiddle with the trans jacks on the oil pan and the onr undet the transmission to free it completely. I'm already "not" looking forward to getting it back in!
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HINT put it in 4th gear going back in that will make your input shaft one to one with your output shaft and you can move the input shaft with the output shaft to help line it up!
 
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