Anyone running the Rough Country adjustable front track bar?

[tnjeepguy]

"Buy the parts for what you need."

Good advice, I feel the need for speed !! (not really, but I thought it was funny on a Sat morning !!)

 

[Apparition]

"Buy the parts for what you need."

Good advice, I feel the need for speed !! (not really, but I thought it was funny on a Sat morning !!)

 

[Bargain Box]

RC track bar here. No clearance issues or any other issues for the mild wheeling I do. Buy the parts for what you need.

Following up on my own post here. Turns out it's a Rubicon Express and not a Rough Country. I just removed it and replaced it with a Metalcloak. The RE unit is actually bent because the tube is hollow. The Metalcloak unit is a solid piece of metal and the joints are built to be rebuilt. It also clears the axle correctly.

 

[BDP]

A clevite bushing axle end and tie rod style frame end track bar has worked for 965,945 TJ’s - every single one produced. Of course that is engineered around stock parameters.

The $129 RC track bar accepts the stock bushing at the axle, and can accept a Moog K7252 with a 9/16
Bolt if needed there , and uses an ES 3096 L at the frame. For the casual off roader - which is probably 90 percent of the people here that even get these things off the pavement, it will get the job done. Given my lack of confidence in the Made in Mexico clevite bushing they provide and guessing their ES3096 L is a cheapo, you do need to consider it is another $60-70 bucks to get Moog or comparable ends- so there is a little bit of a false economy going on.

I’m just trying trying to be totally truthful. If it had quality bushings and ends for $129 it would be a better value. Maybe they are better now but most of their smaller clevites lose density and flex too much pretty quick.

Also removing the clevite on one was rough - I thought we would never get it out.

Old thread....I know. Was it hard because you did it without a press?

 

[AndyG]

Old thread....I know. Was it hard because you did it without a press?

Well it was hard because there’s a little dimensional difference- The track bar needs to be honed pretty good inside where the bushing goes for a better fit

I think you could do it with Emery paper if you’re persistent and I think the difference is just thousandth or so but it was a pretty tough install- Tough enough that I’m afraid you would risk damaging the bar if you don’t clearance in just a little bit more

 

[BDP]

Well it was hard because there’s a little dimensional difference- The track bar needs to be honed pretty good inside where the bushing goes for a better fit

I think you could do it with Emery paper if you’re persistent and I think the difference is just thousandth or so but it was a pretty tough install- Tough enough that I’m afraid you would risk damaging the bar if you don’t clearance in just a little bit more

Did you replace with the OEM style 10mm or the 9/16" bushings?

 

[AndyG]

Did you replace with the OEM style 10mm or the 9/16" bushings?

Moog K7252 with clayton 9/16 (14mm) bolt kit

Drives rock solid

 

[BDP]

Moog K7252 with clayton 9/16 (14mm) bolt kit

Drives rock solid

what do you have on the frame side?

 

[AndyG]

what do you have on the frame side?

Moog es 3096l

 

[BDP]

Moog es 3096l

Very good, thanks Andy.

 

[AndyG]

Very good, thanks Andy.

It has one in it when new I just don’t know that it’s going to hold up good knowing their propensity to outsource cheap parts- sure its not a moog

 

[BDP]

I put a RC on with my 2" lift. Since I don't do any off-roading & it is not a DD, I figured it was a good option & I feel it is as good as the stock one I took off. I really didn't want to drill out the frame support for the JKS TB. I did however, drill out the stout bushing sleeve so I could put in a larger 7/16" bolt in the factory hole. The oem bolt is smaller than the hole.

 

[AndyG]

I put a RC on with my 2" lift. Since I don't do any off-roading & it is not a DD, I figured it was a good option & I feel it is as good as the stock one I took off. I really didn't want to drill out the frame support for the JKS TB. I did however, drill out the stout bushing sleeve so I could put in a larger 7/16" bolt in the factory hole. The oem bolt is smaller than the hole.

View attachment 483651

View attachment 483652

That was a good move-

If you ever decide to remove that bushing be sure to have your ears laid back because you are going to work

We have put a K 7252 in a few

Also any ES 3096 fits on the other end if you got the new RC track bar

I think that particular track bar is actually a pretty good product considering where it came from- You can rebuild the bar with over the counter parts-

About the only thing that could be better would be a second nut to lock down the primary jam nut-

If it ever comes loose you’re going to know it- you will have death wobble so bad you need therapy

 

[freedom_in_4low]

If you ever decide to remove that bushing be sure to have your ears laid back because you are going to work

Like any normal bonded bushing or is this above and beyond that for some reason?

I just removed the ones from my RC lower control arms and it was a little time consuming but not bad once I figured out what to do. Basically just pressed the inner sleeve out of the rubber, then pressed the rubber out of the outer sleeve, cut the outer sleeve with a saw, and then chiseled it out of the arm.

I had that adventure on my 280Z, did ALL the bushings in the suspension, when I was 18, so I remembered the general idea of what I was in for.

 

[AndyG]

Like any normal bonded bushing or is this above and beyond that for some reason?

I just removed the ones from my RC lower control arms and it was a little time consuming but not bad once I figured out what to do. Basically just pressed the inner sleeve out of the rubber, then pressed the rubber out of the outer sleeve, cut the outer sleeve with a saw, and then chiseled it out of the arm.

I had that adventure on my 280Z, did ALL the bushings in the suspension, when I was 18, so I remembered the general idea of what I was in for.

I’m not 100 percent sure man- It seems to be a normal pressfit but man it was a job to get out- Maybe I was just going about it the wrong way.

I just remember thinking I was never going to get that sucker out

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I’m not 100 percent sure man- It seems to be a normal pressfit but man it was a job to get out- Maybe I was just going about it the wrong way.

I just remember thinking I was never going to get that sucker out

Yeah they're a bear. I've never been able to just press one out. It's always destroying it one step at a time.

 

[BDP]

That was a good move-

If you ever decide to remove that bushing be sure to have your ears laid back because you are going to work

We have put a K 7252 in a few

Also any ES 3096 fits on the other end if you got the new RC track bar

I think that particular track bar is actually a pretty good product considering where it came from- You can rebuild the bar with over the counter parts-

About the only thing that could be better would be a second nut to lock down the primary jam nut-

If it ever comes loose you’re going to know it- you will have death wobble so bad you need therapy

Thanks, Andy. I remember you saying how hard those bushings are to replace. that was the reason I didn't attempt to replace it with the Moog. I do need to put Loctite on the Jam nut.