OP
And the parts are starting to arrive! Currie rear track bar today.
Arizona Rock Crawler
- Thread starter starkey480
- Start date
OP
I got anxious to do something to my Jeep today so I put the track bar on. I wish I didn’t bother with it haha. I thought I could take my OME bracket off and run it in the stock housing but that had interference issues with the exhaust and gas tank so I then I put the bracket back on and I forgot how narrow they make the bracket, I have to use a mallet just to get the Johnny joint in there which then also makes it harder to center the axle and get the bolt in. All in all what I thought was a short exciting job turned into a very long unnecessary task that I will do again in a week 
OP
Here’s my plan of attack for doing the tuck. What do you guys think? @JMT
Thursday
Thursday
- Install SYE
- Remove trackbar bracket and springs
- Paint rear axle TB mount
- Add rear bumpstop extensions for tb bracket
- add rear coil spacers and springs
- Drop Jeep decide if I like 1” spacers compared to existing .75”
- Install lopro transmission mount
- Install new skid plate
- Install TB bracket
- Flip shocks
- Lengthen rear upper arms for pinion angle
- Adjust lowers to center axle in wheel well
- Install TB
- Cycle for interference
- Trim lower spring perches if need
- Measure for Tom Wood DS and order
- Relocate upper spring perch if need
- Exhaust clearance modifications
- Install speedohealer
- Install engine/tranny skid
- Order Tom Wood Driveshaft
- Install Driveshaft
- Double check pinion angle
- Check for driveshaft bind
- Drive check for vibes
OP
Curious as to why? Is it a poly bushing, and they want it greased to keep noise down? Just never seen one in that location before.
OP
OP
OP
The things you find when you properly cycle your suspension.... turns out my front driver side uptravel is limited by this rough country diff guard the previous owner put on. It hits my currie track bar at just about full bump but not quite. Good thing I RTVed this thing on super well. Time to take that guard off.
OP
all better
but I found out why it’s so hard hard to turn at full bump. Sway bar is in the way. Would an anti rock eliminate this?
but I found out why it’s so hard hard to turn at full bump. Sway bar is in the way. Would an anti rock eliminate this?
My antirock arms caused rubbing compared to my stock bar disconnected but every Jeep is different with wheels, tires, etc. , could you relocate your sway bar disconnect pins closer to the front to push the bar farther up into the inner fender?
OP
This is one of those duhhhhh moments. That will definitely fix it. My mind is on too many things right now. Thinking about relocating my upper front shocks mounts an inch further up to allow more up travel
OP
I’m just going to relocate the pins further back to push the sway bar up out of the way
OP
I’m just going to relocate the pins further back to push the sway bar up out of the way
Ok. Are you sure it's only rubbing on full bump/full lock while disconnected? It looks like it's rubbing your link maybe while connected at full lock.
OP
Well my experiment was a success. I can fit my 33s at full bump with no bumpstop extension. This means if I relocate the upper spring perch I can gain 1.5” of uptravel. Can you tell I’ve been reading @jjvw s build thread? 
Tldelaney
TJ Enthusiast
Well my experiment was a success. I can fit my 33s at full bump with no bumpstop extension. This means if I relocate the upper spring perch I can gain 1.5” of uptravel. Can you tell I’ve been reading @jjvw s build thread?
View attachment 157162
Very nice, Do you have the page number on JJVW's build thread regarding relocating the spring perches?
OP
Who here knows how good it feels to pull this bitch of a snap ring out of their tcase 
