Armor options

sfexeter

sfexeter

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I've spent quite a bit of time trying to find information, but am more confused than ever. My Sport has a 2.5" suspension lift and a 1" transfer case drop which were installed by a PO. I'm trying to make it as capable as possible for now without sinking a ton of money into it, and deciding how far I want to take things. I want to leave the option open of going bigger in the future (33's?). What I'm looking for at this point is armor to protect it, as most of the trails I have been on have a good amount of rock. I really want to go home with all my fluids and parts intact! Almost every skid I look at seems to be either designed for tummy tucks or stock. Does anyone know if there is an option that would work with the 1" drop, but would also be good to be moved up if/when I wanted to eliminate that drop? I'm assuming the only way to do so will be with a SYE? I was considering trying to do the SYE now, but it seems like I would have to redo it if I end up doing a bigger lift. Trying to figure out what order to tackle things is very difficult for me as I have ZERO experience. My biggest concern is protecting the oil pan as it seems very vulnerable. If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

Brian


2002 TJ Sport
2.5" Suspension Lift
1" Tcase Drop
31" Tires
5 Speed
4.0L
 
Look at the Savvy engine skid you can by drilling a few holes in the tc skid attach it to the tc skid
 
I’d start with testing if the 1” drop is necessary or not. Many of those are tossed on and never checked. From there you could figure out where you can get your TC and then match armor to that height.

UCF has a few height options which may be able to work into where you actually need to be while still being better than the OEM shovel. From there, I’d jump toward the other armor for the oil pan.
 
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Rasband,

Good point. I have no idea if the drop was needed. It seems like it was all part of a kit, so likely just thrown on there.
 
rasband said:
I’d start with testing if the 1” drop is necessary or not. Many of those are tossed on and never checked. From there you could figure out where you can get your TC and then match armor to that height.

UCF has a few height options which may be able to work into where you actually need to be while still being better than the OEM shovel. From there, I’d jump toward the other armor for the oil pan.
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☝🏼This and, I’m a big fan of M.O.R.E. products. They arrive painted already and come with great install instructions. Install their engine skid and 1” raised motor mounts amd pull that transfer case drop If vibes occur try a few washers in place of the TC drop.
Also that Barnes suggestion is great , their belly skid is very versatile. 👌🏼
 
☝🏼This and, I’m a big fan of M.O.R.E. products. They arrive painted already and come with great install instructions. Install their engine skid and 1” raised motor mounts amd pull that transfer case drop If vibes occur try a few washers in place of the TC drop.
Also that Barnes suggestion is great , their belly skid is very versatile.
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Which body / motor mount lift would you suggest? Is this something an amateur could/should attempt? That M.O.R.E. engine skid looks like a great option!
 
sfexeter said:
Which body / motor mount lift would you suggest? Is this something an amateur could/should attempt? That M.O.R.E. engine skid looks like a great option!
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I installed both M.O.R.E body amd engine lifts. They have a newer model “bombproof “ 1” raised with Clevite bushing. No squeak or squeal. I’m no beginner but amateur I am and i installed all the above in my garage, alone. Take your time, read instructions, ask questions and don’t fret when something needs to come back apart. 👍🏼

I will add tho that next time i will go for the Savvy 1.25” body lift pucks. They come painted (or anodized not sure), they have a nice taper to set in the factory recess and I do believe that extra 1/4” is key.
 
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It is important to have an aluminum block body lift puck, such as the Savvy 1.25", M.O.R.E 1" or the Currie 1" so you don't get any squish when you torque things down. You don't want the tub unaligned. As mentioned before, the Savvy re-uses the factory rubber body mounts and tapers to fit them, so the end result is the same as stock, it subdues vibrations. I can't answer for the other two.

The 1.25" is helpful if you intend to ever do a full TT. That extra 0.25" helps everything clear the tub.

A good suggestion for the 1" MML; if you're factory engine mounts are in good shape, then use 1" JKS or Currie spacer. Otherwise, if the factory need replacing, you might look into the M.O.R.E with rubber or the Brown Dog also with rubber (some complain about vibes with the Brown Dog, but I haven't had an issue.

Install of both is pretty straight forward. Lots of help here on the forum for when you get ready to tackle both.
 
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Weasellee said:
I installed both M.O.R.E body amd engine lifts. They have a newer model “bombproof “ 1” raised with Clevite bushing. No squeak or squeal. I’m no beginner but amateur I am and i installed all the above in my garage, alone. Take your time, read instructions, ask questions and don’t fret when something needs to come back apart. 👍🏼

I will add tho that next time i will go for the Savvy 1.25” body lift pucks. They come painted (or anodized not sure), they have a nice taper to set in the factory recess and I do believe that extra 1/4” is key.
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One last note, whenever O go for a body lift install I order a Crown Automotive stock body mount kit to accommodate the new aluminum pucks and bolts.
Kroil,Kroil,kroil. For days before you begin, if you are in any way looking at possible rust issues with 👍🏼
 
I have the Barnes transfer case skid paired with a Savvy engine skid and am satisfied. The Barnes skid is .75" higher. There is a transfer case adapter that bolts between the skid and transfer case that probably adds another .25" of lift to the transfer case.
20200226_172141.jpg
 
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06lj said:
I have the Barnes transfer case skid paired with a Savvy engine skid and am satisfied. The Barnes skid is .75" higher. There is a transfer case adapter that bolts between the skid and transfer case that probably adds another .25" of lift to the transfer case.View attachment 258129
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That looks well protected indeed! Do you have a SYE or body lift to compensate? I am really going back and forth trying to wrap my mind around all of this.
 
sfexeter said:
That looks well protected indeed! Do you have a SYE or body lift to compensate? I am really going back and forth trying to wrap my mind around all of this.
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At the time of the picture I had a 2.5" lift, MML and BL installed. It fit 33's without issue. I do have an LJ so can't compare driveline angles. The skid was well made and I would recommend it. With a MML and reusing your transfer case drop I'd wager you will avoid any vibrations. I used an aluminum puck MML with my stock mounts. It was cheap and has been problem free.
 
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