Audiophiles, teach me on audio settings

[jchadscud]

Resurrecting this thread. I recently installed an Alpine head unit and Rockford Fosgate speakers in the front as well as the sound bar. Over the weekend I plan to install the Rockford Fosgate PS-8 8" powered sub under the rear seat.

I've gotten some good info from this thread but have a few questions on head unit and the amplifier settings on the powered sub.

Amplifier Setting on Powered Sub:
Input Level Control (Min/Max) - Looks like this is used to match the sound going to the speakers. Is it best to set this about halfway and adjust as needed?

Variable Crossover (50-120Hz) - Set to 120Hz and set HPF and LPF on the head unit to 120Hz?

Head Unit Setting:
Slope (Flat/6/12/18/24) - I understand that this is the dropoff as the HPF and LPF approach 120Hz. Is it best just to play with the setting? Is this a micro adjustment that a non-audophile likely wouldn't pick out?

EQ - I'll adjust this to taste one band at a time as suggested

Time Correction - Is this another item that a non-audiophile likely wouldn't pick out?

Thanks!

 

[bobthetj03]

Resurrecting this thread. I recently installed an Alpine head unit and Rockford Fosgate speakers in the front as well as the sound bar. Over the weekend I plan to install the Rockford Fosgate PS-8 8" powered sub under the rear seat.

I've gotten some good info from this thread but have a few questions on head unit and the amplifier settings on the powered sub.

Amplifier Setting on Powered Sub:
Input Level Control (Min/Max) - Looks like this is used to match the sound going to the speakers. Is it best to set this about halfway and adjust as needed?

Variable Crossover (50-120Hz) - Set to 120Hz and set HPF and LPF on the head unit to 120Hz?

Head Unit Setting:
Slope (Flat/6/12/18/24) - I understand that this is the dropoff as the HPF and LPF approach 120Hz. Is it best just to play with the setting? Is this a micro adjustment that a non-audophile likely wouldn't pick out?

EQ - I'll adjust this to taste one band at a time as suggested

Time Correction - Is this another item that a non-audiophile likely wouldn't pick out?

Thanks!

I started another thread recently and got some great advise from the audio experts on here.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stereo-question.20330/
If your HU has gain controls, then you can dial it down from there. gain controls should be in the same settings as your frequency settings and slope settings. If the case, then set the gain on the amp high and adjust down with the deck.
The EQ settings will give you the best control. Play around with the preset EQ offerings, then dial in the manual EQ bands to your liking and use the user EQ from then on.

 

[89grand]

Yes, the input level is used to match the output of the sub with the rest of the system, it's a sensitivity adjustment. There is no right or wrong adjustment, it's system dependent. I'd rather set it on the high side, and use the head unit to adjust it down if needed.

If the sub crossover is not defeatable, then set it to the highest setting (120hz I guess) and use the head units crossover. 80hz is a great starting point and works for most systems.

The slope is how sharp the crossover filter is. Generally sharper is better, so I'd use 24db. The differences in slope of the filter do make a difference. If using 24db for all speakers, high and low crossover for instance the subs and other speakers are in phase at the crossover point (80hz as an example). If you use 12db, you'd be 180 out of phase at the crossover, and that usually require changing the polarity of the sub to make it blend in properly.

EQ is system dependent, and user preference. I saw in the older posts that Q was questioned. I don't if that was answered or if yours has that. I can explain if need be.

Time correction is great, I use it in my car, but the Jeep is probably not the best environment to make use of it. In a nutshell, it is used to add delay to all of the speakers to match the distance of the furthest speaker, so that all of the sound from all of the speakers arrives at the same time. When used correctly, the vocals in songs will sound as though they are coming from the center of the hood, rather than a distinct left right sound, with a left side bias due to the those speakers being closer. Balance adjustments really don't do the same thing, it only effect output level..

 

[bobthetj03]

My deck has a "Q Factor" setting in the manual EQ settings. 1.35, 1.50, 2.00 are the choices.

 

[bobthetj03]

I also have some features in the "sound effect" settings.

"Space enhance": virtually enhances the sound space.(small/medium/large). Is this where you'd adjust for time correction?

"Sound realizer": Virtually makes the sound more realistic. I have this turned off.

"Stage EQ": Virtually adjust the sound position heard from the speakers. Maybe this is time correction?

"Drive EQ": "On" boosts the frequency to reduce the noise heard from outside the car or running noise of the tires. I have this "off".

"Speaker size": Allows me to choose the speaker sizes for front/rear/sub.

 

[89grand]

My deck has a "Q Factor" setting in the manual EQ settings. 1.35, 1.50, 2.00 are the choices.

The Q setting changes how much surrounding frequencies are effected by your particular eq band. Lets say you wanted to adjust 100hz, say that is the center frequency. With the Q set to 2.00. If you boosted 100hz 10db, the octaves above and below 100hz, so 50hz and 200hz and every frequency in between are boosted less. If you set it to 1.5 and do the same thing, 50 and 200hz and every frequency in between are boosted more, and with 1.3 even more.

In other words, the higher the Q the more the eq adjustment effect just the frequency selected, the lower the Q the more it effects the surrounding frequencies too. The old fashion bass and treble controls had a very low Q, so the controls effected a lot of frequencies.

I find a high Q better in bass frequencies and a lower Q better in the mid and upper frequencies, but without measurement equipment, it's very tough to determine what specific areas need attention, and what is the best Q setting to use. Your 3 Q options aren't so different from each other to make a huge difference, but it's enough to make a difference.

 

[dudehitt]

All of those are like shortcuts to filtering/time delay/levels. Most of which you've already played with the hard way.

Time delay is DTA settings on a Kenwood. You enter the distance from your face to the speakers and it puts the sound right in front of your face. When you are doing front right you can change the distance and hear the sound walk from one side to the other.

 

[bobthetj03]

All of those are like shortcuts to filtering/time delay/levels. Most of which you've already played with the hard way.

Time delay is DTA settings on a Kenwood. You enter the distance from your face to the speakers and it puts the sound right in front of your face. When you are doing front right you can change the distance and hear the sound walk from one side to the other.

I don't have that setting on my HU.

 

[89grand]

I also have some features in the "sound effect" settings.

"Space enhance": virtually enhances the sound space.(small/medium/large). Is this where you'd adjust for time correction?

"Sound realizer": Virtually makes the sound more realistic. I have this turned off.

"Stage EQ": Virtually adjust the sound position heard from the speakers. Maybe this is time correction?

"Drive EQ": "On" boosts the frequency to reduce the noise heard from outside the car or running noise of the tires. I have this "off".

"Speaker size": Allows me to choose the speaker sizes for front/rear/sub.

I probably wouldn't use any of those. If you want to use the features like time correction, that is better done manually. Some of those may even be some processing gimmicks that either aren't right for your system, or are overly processed and sound bad. Most systems sound better with the least amount of processing other than crossovers, level settings and some minor eq, unless you have some really high tech processor like the Minidsp 6x8 unit in my car.

The one downside to time correction, is once adjusted right, it sounds great in the drivers seat, but horrible in the passenger seat. In my car, I rarely have passengers so a driver seat only setup is fine with me. If you don't feel that way, you really can't use it.

 

[bobthetj03]

I probably wouldn't use any of those. If you want to use the features like time correction, that is better done manually. Some of those may even be some processing gimmicks that either aren't right for your system, or are overly processed and sound bad. Most systems sound better with the least amount of processing other than crossovers, level settings and some minor eq, unless you some really hi tech processors like the Minidsp 6x8 unit in my car.

The one downside to time correction, is once adjusted right, it sounds great in the drivers seat, but horrible in the passenger seat. In my car, I rarely have passengers so a driver seat only setup is fine with me. If you don't feel that way, you really can't use it.

I kind of figured as much. That is why I have those features turned off. I think I have the staging centered as good as I can get it based on the crappy locations a TJ has the speakers. I dialed the gain down to the pods and faded a bit to front to try an mimic some front sound stage.

 

[JMT]

@jchadscud, also, the PS-8 comes with an external control that you can mount near you so you can control the amount of bass you are hearing. You may find it cheesy, but I find it very helpful. I use it daily to make micro adjustments for type of music.

 

[skrelnik]

I kind of figured as much. That is why I have those features turned off. I think I have the staging centered as good as I can get it based on the crappy locations a TJ has the speakers. I dialed the gain down to the pods and faded a bit to front to try an mimic some front sound stage.

Seems like you are really getting into the audio, good stuff. Check out the below link, has a couple downloads that are specific to this company's DSP module. There are helpful tips throughout the magazine going over the audio goodies that you have been referencing.

Hands down this company makes the best amplifiers with built-in DSPs that are available to the mass public. Thier amplifier/DSP is computer based, so in order to use it you need download the software to a laptop, and then plug into the amplifier/DSP and then you change the settings while listening to the music.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/dsp-pc-tool/sound-tuning-magazine/

 

[bobthetj03]

I've always liked audio, but never got into the finer nuances. I used to kill it with volume and bass,

I then decided I wanted more storage than I did stupid loud music, so I paired down a bit,

With big ole monster amps gone and the subs, this cute little critter mounted nicely under the steering column, and the sub in the console kept it stealthy. It doesn't have ear drum destroying bass, but now that I have the settings dialed in better, it sounds quite satisfying!

 

[skrelnik]

I've always liked audio, but never got into the finer nuances. I used to kill it with volume and bass,
View attachment 86455View attachment 86456View attachment 86457
I then decided I wanted more storage than I did stupid loud music, so I paired down a bit,
View attachment 86458
View attachment 86459
With big ole monster amps gone and the subs, this cute little critter mounted nicely under the steering column, and the sub in the console kept it stealthy. It doesn't have ear drum destroying bass, but now that I have the settings dialed in better, it sounds quite satisfying!

I had that same Kenwood amplifier, and also the M3004 model, and they are great amps, but the Jeep and audio itches got the best of me so I sold it along with some other stuff to @oldditchdoctor ( hope you still like it!). I ended up getting the Match M 5DSP which I found to be the most perfect amp for our Jeep. 5 channel amp with 7 channel DSP so you can connect a second amp and utilize the extra 2 channels that the DSP has. It's size is 1.3" x 3.3" x 4.3" so it can fit anyone. The power is perfect and just fun to tune. It's not for everyone, more for someone who likes to figit. While expensive, you can remove it before selling the jeep and use in another application.

 

[bobthetj03]

I had that same Kenwood amplifier, and also the M3004 model, and they are great amps, but the Jeep and audio itches got the best of me so I sold it along with some other stuff to @oldditchdoctor ( hope you still like it!). I ended up getting the Match M 5DSP which I found to be the most perfect amp for our Jeep. 5 channel amp with 7 channel DSP so you can connect a second amp and utilize the extra 2 channels that the DSP has. It's size is 1.3" x 3.3" x 4.3" so it can fit anyone. The power is perfect and just fun to tune. It's not for everyone, more for someone who likes to figit. While expensive, you can remove it before selling the jeep and use in another application.

That might be my next audio upgrade after I learn some more about this DSP stuff. I think putting Moar Powahh to the 5.25's would be benificial.

 

[89grand]

I have the 4 channel version of the Kenwood mini amp. They are powerful amps for how little they are. Right now mine is running 3 channel. The front channels run the dash 5.25" and the rear channels are bridged to run my 6.5" sub. The sports bar speakers are running off the Pioneer deck, and are faded down low, so I don't need an amp for them. I may get the Kenwood mono you have, as I have some iseas on doing a bi-amped setup in the front using the 4 channel. Mine is mounted under the steering column as well.

 

[jchadscud]

@jchadscud, also, the PS-8 comes with an external control that you can mount near you so you can control the amount of bass you are hearing. You may find it cheesy, but I find it very helpful. I use it daily to make micro adjustments for type of music.

Thanks for all the replies and info. I didn’t install the remote adjustment because the head unit offers a similar adjustment.

Should I hook the remote up a first time and set it at a certain level or if never plugged in does it affect anything?

I haven’t gotten to play with too many settings yet, but the bass sounds best with the head unit sub level maxed out. Would like to get it where it’s sounding that way with some room to adjust the level up.

 

[JMT]

Thanks for all the replies and info. I didn’t install the remote adjustment because the head unit offers a similar adjustment.

Should I hook the remote up a first time and set it at a certain level or if never plugged in does it affect anything?

I haven’t gotten to play with too many settings yet, but the bass sounds best with the head unit sub level maxed out. Would like to get it where it’s sounding that way with some room to adjust the level up.

I know, I know. I thought the same thing. HU does that so it’s redundant. However, to adjust the base on the HU you have to enter your settings. This is just a knob you turn. So much easier. Eyes on road.

It won’t affect anything if you don’t hook it up. But it’s actually a nice option. Mount under the driver seat or under the dash within reach.

To get some more bass adjustment at the HU, turn the gain up on the PS-8.

 

[dudehitt]

I know, I know. I thought the same thing. HU does that so it’s redundant. However, to adjust the base on the HU you have to enter your settings. This is just a knob you turn. So much easier. Eyes on road.

It won’t affect anything if you don’t hook it up. But it’s actually a nice option. Mount under the driver seat or under the dash within reach.

To get some more bass adjustment at the HU, turn the gain up on the PS-8.

A LOT of people love the bass knob. I never used one.