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indio said:
I currently have all four rear seat bolts with heads broken off. A previous owner when removing the seats, apparently broke all the bolts, then ground down what remained and covered with bed liner. And the remains of those four bolts are fused in good and solid. Earlier today I tried the vice grips approach from underneath with no luck.

I think the only way you will get the remains of the bolt loose, is by applying a lot of heat to the nut from underneath, and then crossing your fingers the bolt can be moved using vice-grips or preferably some bolt extractor similar to a nut from underneath.

For my part, I am going to carefully cut off each of the captive nuts from underneath, and then install new bolts with regular nuts. Because I don't think anything is going to get enough grip on the underside portion of the bolt to allow removal given the corrosion. I'm rooting for you though, if you manage to get that bolt extracted more power to you.

(Photo below shows the remains of bolts under vehicle, but there are no bolt heads above to wrench on.)

View attachment 90307
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Oh man, I feel for you! I thought my day was bad with one broken off bolt. Tomorrow is another day, I am going to cross my fingers and hope for luck. The good news in my case, is I don't see any rust on the underside, as in your pics (sorry). My Jeep has only very little rust (garage kept Texas Jeep) and none that I see on the bolt and captive nut.

More to come tomorrow.
 
Boinked said:
You have a lot of meat on them. I would try an exhaust stud remover.

ARES 70016 | Damaged Bolt and Stud Extractor Tool | Grips and Removes 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch Studs | Ideal for Broken, Rounded Off, Painted Over and Rusted Tight Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GKEBG9I/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I've thought about that approach. But the bolts were so fused, all four broke when the previous owner tried to remove. And probably that was several years ago at least. By now I bet they are worse, and a bolt extractor might just snap them from underneath. I'll give it some more consideration though.

If not, then for $20 I can get a relatively small electric cut-off tool from HF, that should fit into the tight space and allow me to cut enough of the nuts so they can be removed.
 
Provided you can get the POS broken extractor out and before cutting the captive nut off as a last resort, use a drill bit that fits in one of the clear holes (for sizing), drill it, spray it with PB or similar, and run a tap (same size and pitch of the original bolt) through it. Don’t force the tap, run it in and out a little farther each time with lube.
 
#1. Drilling into the remains of the hardened steel extractor that broken in the initial hole I drilled was a no go. The extractor remains just laughed at my sharpened drill bits and it even decided to break two of them.

#2. No amount of twisting and turning was going to loosen that bolt from underneath. I spent several hours with two different vice grips trying to twist and turn that bad boy, but no bueno, it wasn't going to budge.

I have given up for now before I do something rash and make it worse. My plan is to look for an elusive special drill bit that I've heard of that will/can drill through the hardened steel. If anyone has heard of this magical bit, let me know.

#3. I'd like to try the Ares tool mentioned about, but a) I don't know if the bolt is actually 1/4 inch and b) I'm uncertain there is enough bolt showing for it to get a grip. Thoughts?
 
BobK said:
#1. Drilling into the remains of the hardened steel extractor that broken in the initial hole I drilled was a no go. The extractor remains just laughed at my sharpened drill bits and it even decided to break two of them.

#2. No amount of twisting and turning was going to loosen that bolt from underneath. I spent several hours with two different vice grips trying to twist and turn that bad boy, but no bueno, it wasn't going to budge.

I have given up for now before I do something rash and make it worse. My plan is to look for an elusive special drill bit that I've heard of that will/can drill through the hardened steel. If anyone has heard of this magical bit, let me know.

#3. I'd like to try the Ares tool mentioned about, but a) I don't know if the bolt is actually 1/4 inch and b) I'm uncertain there is enough bolt showing for it to get a grip. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I would drill out the entire insert , make a plate for the bottom side , air seal with Sika sealant and bolt the seat down sandwiching the tub
 
BobK said:
#1. Drilling into the remains of the hardened steel extractor that broken in the initial hole I drilled was a no go. The extractor remains just laughed at my sharpened drill bits and it even decided to break two of them.

#2. No amount of twisting and turning was going to loosen that bolt from underneath. I spent several hours with two different vice grips trying to twist and turn that bad boy, but no bueno, it wasn't going to budge.

I have given up for now before I do something rash and make it worse. My plan is to look for an elusive special drill bit that I've heard of that will/can drill through the hardened steel. If anyone has heard of this magical bit, let me know.

#3. I'd like to try the Ares tool mentioned about, but a) I don't know if the bolt is actually 1/4 inch and b) I'm uncertain there is enough bolt showing for it to get a grip. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
If you have a straight shot on it from underneath you can drill from that direction through the center of the Bolt also and maybe knock the hardened steel out with a punch from underneath.
 
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DrDmoney said:
If you have a straight shot on it from underneath you can drill from that direction through the center of the Bolt also and maybe knock the hardened steel out with a punch from underneath.
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Yeah, I didn't mention all the things I tried but failed at. I did manage to get my drill through the maze of axle, exhaust, control arm, and shock tube, but the drill was not straight on, it was cocked at an angle and I decided that might make ti worse.

I also took a torch to the bolt, but as the penetrating oil flickered with a flame, I gave up. I had my trust fire extinguisher nearby but was able to get it out easily as it was just a flicker.

I'm headed to Home Depot later to look at other vice grips and that elusive magical drill bit.
 
I like things nice and I don't like to have to jerry-rig something... I would even consider making a plate as wide as the back of the tub with corresponding holes and putting it beneath the vehicle and using that to bolt through to beef everything up.

if that's not practical just making a plate that corresponds with one of the seat brackets wood work.. you could even move the seat back a little bit if you absolutely had to get a new place to bite.

Or just take the Jeep to a fabrication shop and get a new section welded into the tub.

Man I hate your having to deal with this.
 
AndyG said:
I like things nice and I don't like to have to jerry-rig something... I would even consider making a plate as wide as the back of the tub with corresponding holes and putting it beneath the vehicle and using that to bolt through to beef everything up.

if that's not practical just making a plate that corresponds with one of the seat brackets wood work.. you could even move the seat back a little bit if you absolutely had to get a new place to bite.

Or just take the Jeep to a fabrication shop and get a new section welded into the tub.

Man I hate your having to deal with this.
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I too hate things that are jerry-rigged. I like all the mechanical things to be nice and pretty and look stock. Not like some yahoo just "made it work". I will persist on this damn bolt (nicest thing its been called in the last two days) and get it out and re-tap the threads if necessary.
 
BobK said:
Yeah, I didn't mention all the things I tried but failed at. I did manage to get my drill through the maze of axle, exhaust, control arm, and shock tube, but the drill was not straight on, it was cocked at an angle and I decided that might make ti worse.



I also took a torch to the bolt, but as the penetrating oil flickered with a flame, I gave up. I had my trust fire extinguisher nearby but was able to get it out easily as it was just a flicker.

I'm headed to Home Depot later to look at other vice grips and that elusive magical drill bit.
Click to expand...

Carbide is the only thing you can drill hard steel with. You might use a carbide drill bit or a carbide burr if you have a die grinder but after this point I would give up
 
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BobK said:
As part of my disassembly of all things on the interior of the Jeep prior to spraying it with bedliner, I removed the front and rear seat belts that were looking pretty worn anyways and will either be refurbished or replaced. I decided to take up the rear seat mount brackets, so that the floor could be properly sprayed and I would sand and spray paint (black) the seat mounts.

All was going well until the last damn bolt (see pic below), the head and about 1/4 of the bolt broke off, leaving the rest of the threads in the hole. The first thing I did was spray the bolt with WD-40 and then recalling my Dad and I breaking off a bolt for a valve cover many moons ago, I got out my drill and EZ Out bolt extractor thinking I was a genius, if only my Dad could see me.....

Check out the second picture of the broken extractor and the damn bolt still stubbornly in the hole. I decided to call it a day rather than do something stupid.

My plan is to go back out there with a small chisel and try to tap out the extractor pieces, then drill the bolt all the way through. Any other better suggestions are welcome.

Bob

View attachment 90200View attachment 90201
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I broke the same bolt. Sold the tub [emoji12]

Sorry dude. It driove me crazy. I wanted to give the tub to the new owner the right way but I couldn’t get it out by that time. He was cool doing it and I guess he got it out from underneath.

Good luck




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Dan T. said:
I broke the same bolt. Sold the tub [emoji12]

Sorry dude. It driove me crazy. I wanted to give the tub to the new owner the right way but I couldn’t get it out by that time. He was cool doing it and I guess he got it out from underneath.

Good luck




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Click to expand...
I think for the book of common TJ knowledge we all need to realize that if you're getting into the seat belt brackets that all the pin Trent you can use days and days ahead of time needs to be considered.
 
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Dan T. said:
I broke the same bolt. Sold the tub [emoji12]

Sorry dude. It driove me crazy. I wanted to give the tub to the new owner the right way but I couldn’t get it out by that time. He was cool doing it and I guess he got it out from underneath.

Good luck




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Click to expand...

Is it the Torx head bolt for the seat belt bracket or the bolt that secured the back seat bracket (one with a washer on it)?


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Sounds like you have used all the tricks. This method has worked for me over many years.
Soak the bolt good with good bolt loosing liquid.
Take a good chisel, not from HF.
Get your self a hammer.
Place the chisel on top of the bolt head.
Hit the chisel with the hammer in the direction of loosing the bolt, counter clock wise.
The chisel should make a slot on the top of the bolt.
The chisel then should bite the top of the bolt and move it in the direction to loosen.
The combination of the liquid, the impact of the chisel and the strike to the head of the bolt should loosen the bolt.
Take your time and don't hit your fingers.
 
Johnnie Hough said:
Sounds like you have used all the tricks. This method has worked for me over many years.
Soak the bolt good with good bolt loosing liquid.
Take a good chisel, not from HF.
Get your self a hammer.
Place the chisel on top of the bolt head.
Hit the chisel with the hammer in the direction of loosing the bolt, counter clock wise.
The chisel should make a slot on the top of the bolt.
The chisel then should bite the top of the bolt and move it in the direction to loosen.
The combination of the liquid, the impact of the chisel and the strike to the head of the bolt should loosen the bolt.
Take your time and don't hit your fingers.
Click to expand...


That is the bolt in question, but you may have missed the initial part of the thread. There is no bolt head (any longer) and there is a broken extractor in the hole that will drilled in the threaded section in the floor.
90466
90467
 
BobK said:
That is the bolt in question, but you may have missed the initial part of the thread. There is no bolt head (any longer) and there is a broken extractor in the hole that will drilled in the threaded section in the floor.
View attachment 90466View attachment 90467
Click to expand...

I’m trying to see if I have a replacement for you. I think I read that you couldn’t find a replacement. I parted a 2001 and have a lot of bolts in my kit now and trying to zero in on the right one.


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Dan T. said:
I’m trying to see if I have a replacement for you. I think I read that you couldn’t find a replacement. I parted a 2001 and have a lot of bolts in my kit now and trying to zero in on the right one.
Click to expand...

It is a Torx 50 head, about 1 1/4 long, looks like this.
90468
 
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