Hi guys I did spark plugs and I tried to clean my throttle body.
For the spark plugs how much force is too much when removing? I have no clue when this job was last done. I sprayed kroil 4 times a day and blew air once a day for 48 hours straight because it was pretty rusty. I watched the kroil literally go into the plugs. Still I had to use 60 ft pounds of torque to remove 4 of my plugs. 50 to remove one, 55 another. I had only a 3/8ths drive small wrench and 1/2inch drive torque wrench on hand, so I didn't use that torque wrench for tightening the spark plugs back up. I just used a 3/8ths until tight....then I checked them all again and give them a bit more turn because I'm a small guy and the wrench was only 8 inches long. Hopefully I'm okay.....afterwards I went out and bought a 3/8ths drive torque wrench, still a bit bigger than I would have liked at 14 inches. That's only 4.5 inches shorter than the 1/2 inch drive. But the 1/2inch is for 20-150 pds, where as this 3/8ths is 5-80 pds.
I'm not using anything other than a dab of motor oil, which admittedly won't do much, but on the threads of the spark plug who here uses anti seize, motor oil, or nothing at all? I know if you use antiseize you can over tighten and it has to be very very little applied.
I've got autolite xp985 I gapped them to .035. They were all .025-.030 when I bought them, in case anyone was wondering. My old spark plugs were the recommended NGKs all had a gap of ABOVE .060? I literally couldn't measure them any further, must be at .070 atleast. Is that normal and how did the jeep manage to drive at all? Keep in mind this is just preventive maintenance. I didn't notice issues before hand with the running of the engine.
For the throttle body anybody have a hard time with the cables and electronic connections? For the cables maybe I was being a scaredy cat but couldn't bring myself to use the force required to take those off. I had no problems with the 4 bolts and the TPS, but the map sensor wouldn't budge, the idle air controller seemed to have only one torx screw and it was very hard to reach. Couldn't get the IAC connector loose. I had been spraying wd40 and electric cleaner to no avail. Used a tiny flathead on the locking tab. Same with the coil rail I simply couldn't get the connection loose even after getting the red tab out. Finally I decided to give up and I used an air hose to dry out the connections and let them sit for a day or so to dry out thoroughly. Was wondering who else had a hard time trying to remove their throttle body....probably no one except me. Just replaced the throttle body on a 09 hyundai sonata, somehow it was way easier.
The jeep seems to get up to 2800 rpm fine and runs the same as before except it starts smoother now with less shaking. Will see how it goes.
For the spark plugs how much force is too much when removing? I have no clue when this job was last done. I sprayed kroil 4 times a day and blew air once a day for 48 hours straight because it was pretty rusty. I watched the kroil literally go into the plugs. Still I had to use 60 ft pounds of torque to remove 4 of my plugs. 50 to remove one, 55 another. I had only a 3/8ths drive small wrench and 1/2inch drive torque wrench on hand, so I didn't use that torque wrench for tightening the spark plugs back up. I just used a 3/8ths until tight....then I checked them all again and give them a bit more turn because I'm a small guy and the wrench was only 8 inches long. Hopefully I'm okay.....afterwards I went out and bought a 3/8ths drive torque wrench, still a bit bigger than I would have liked at 14 inches. That's only 4.5 inches shorter than the 1/2 inch drive. But the 1/2inch is for 20-150 pds, where as this 3/8ths is 5-80 pds.
I'm not using anything other than a dab of motor oil, which admittedly won't do much, but on the threads of the spark plug who here uses anti seize, motor oil, or nothing at all? I know if you use antiseize you can over tighten and it has to be very very little applied.
I've got autolite xp985 I gapped them to .035. They were all .025-.030 when I bought them, in case anyone was wondering. My old spark plugs were the recommended NGKs all had a gap of ABOVE .060? I literally couldn't measure them any further, must be at .070 atleast. Is that normal and how did the jeep manage to drive at all? Keep in mind this is just preventive maintenance. I didn't notice issues before hand with the running of the engine.
For the throttle body anybody have a hard time with the cables and electronic connections? For the cables maybe I was being a scaredy cat but couldn't bring myself to use the force required to take those off. I had no problems with the 4 bolts and the TPS, but the map sensor wouldn't budge, the idle air controller seemed to have only one torx screw and it was very hard to reach. Couldn't get the IAC connector loose. I had been spraying wd40 and electric cleaner to no avail. Used a tiny flathead on the locking tab. Same with the coil rail I simply couldn't get the connection loose even after getting the red tab out. Finally I decided to give up and I used an air hose to dry out the connections and let them sit for a day or so to dry out thoroughly. Was wondering who else had a hard time trying to remove their throttle body....probably no one except me. Just replaced the throttle body on a 09 hyundai sonata, somehow it was way easier.
The jeep seems to get up to 2800 rpm fine and runs the same as before except it starts smoother now with less shaking. Will see how it goes.
