Has anybody used Rustoleum bed liner spray on there fender flares? If so how did it work out and how should I prep them before spraying? Thank you
Bedliner on fender flares?
- Thread starter woody367
- Start date
I did mine and they turned out great. Took them off, cleaned, sanded to rough up surface a little, cleaned with mineral spirits. Only issue I have is by gas neck. Old Jeeps tend to "burp" when the tank is full. Gas will break down bed liner and it will wipe off.
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
Yes it can. Still looking for the right time to drop the tank and trim off the tabs on the neck float.
I’ve got monstaliner on a set of flares and it is holding up very well after nearly a year. Clean and scrub the flares a few times using a detergent like simple green, sand them real good until the original texture is completely gone (extend your sanding an inch or so in on the bottom and back sides too). Clean them a little more with simple green and then rinse them really well with warm water. Spray one coat of bulldog adhesion promoter (gives plastics much better surface tension). Then you are ready to apply the bedliner. Extend your application to the bottom side and back a little bit because wherever the bedliner starts is the most likely place that it will peel if it does peel. Better to keep it hidden. Also do not at any time use acetone. It will break down the plastic and essentially turn whatever part of the flare it touches into powder which will become a point of failure. Good luck.
I used Rust-Oleum Professional Bedliner. It held up great even with the gas burp. Make sure the can say Professional. It's more expensive a lot better than the regular version.
This is really interesting. As i spent a couple days prepping and painting my flares with sem adhesion promoter and sem trim black. And it failed. Paint is flaking off. And i used acetone to clean them after sanding and washing.
If this is true it should be prominantly placed someplace on this forum. As alot of guys suggest and have used acetone for prep.
Further i do believe that the flares are made of a different vinyl or plastic than most vehicle trim. I used Forever Black (a plastic dye) on all of my other vehicles. And it held up well over a year. But not so with Jeep flares. It literally flaked off after the first coat dried. In minutes. Was the weirdest thing I'd ever seen.
So ya. This explains alot.
Acetone will damage some plastics but not all. I've done 2 sets of factory flares and other plastics and never had any issues with acetone. Whenever using any kind of solvent it's always best to test it on a small inconspicuous area...let the inside of the flare that you can't see. You'll know in short time if there will be an issue.
I think its either the acetone or the forever black. But i cleaned the hell out of them between the forever black and the paint.
These are my results.
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
I wonder if there's a difference between the standard flares and the Rubicon/Sahara flares.
The wider ones are all painted, from the factory.
The wider ones are all painted, from the factory.
Not the best pics since it just rained a bit but these were Sahara flares done 2 years ago and exposed to all 4 seasons. Chemically stripped, acetone, light sanding, washed with soapy water, adhesion promoter. Originally sprayed with black Krylon bit I didn't like the finish so just sprayed over with the Rust-Oleum Professional bed liner. I did the same thing with the stock non-sahara flares and same result.
Not sure if those marks are from acetone. Hard to tell from the pics but usually acetone will cause damage like the plastic was burned and it shows up shortly after application.
Not sure if those marks are from acetone. Hard to tell from the pics but usually acetone will cause damage like the plastic was burned and it shows up shortly after application.
I doubt the problems are from acetone. Most likely from the wrong or incompatible paint under the new paint. For instance, enamel over acrylic is not good, even with adhesion promoters. Shows up after a short time as the top leaches the under coat (like a melt) to the top.
real two part urethane liners (epoxy or poly) generally hold up over old paint.
real two part urethane liners (epoxy or poly) generally hold up over old paint.
The previous owner sprayed the flares, rocker guards, corner guards, and tube steps (RIP) with Raptor liner. I don't know how they prepped the flares, but 5 years later they still look fresh and have withstood gas burps, sunlight, woodland trails, etc.
I saw pictures of @Nickgsjeep and did the dupli-color bed armor as well. I think @zebra12 might have tagged the wrong Nick. The pictures @Russ_S posted look great too. I think careful prep and some luck is all you need. Dupli-color makes foaming prep spray to clean the surface, the plastic adhesion stuff and the liner. I just got all three of those and did it that way, it's what the hardware store had on the shelf.
I just buy new flares. It's $130 for Omix. Avoid Crown. You get new stainless hardware, worth it in my mind since materials alone to re-paint will be in the $70 range, and who knows after 2-3 years. I like to do something once and wait 10-15 years, not 2-3. My .02c.