Best touch-up paint for floorpan?

James9100

James9100

TJ Enthusiast
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Saskatchewan, Canada
Have some light surface rust on my drivers floorboard that I need to take care of, got rid of a good bit just with a green scuff pad already, gonna finish up by hand with some sandpaper or a red scuff pad.
Would like to touch it up with body-matched/close-ish. Thinking just the Duplicolor Perfect Match but what kind of primer should I use? Self-etch?
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Nah, that will not last very long

I sealcoated my floor with a high zinc oil based Rustoleum pro silver can. Its around $60 a gallon

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I have a spot on my floor I want to address. I was thinking about using an Eastwood product, maybe one of the brush-on encapsulators? I have some other stuff to do on my daily driver as well.
 
James9100 said:
Have some light surface rust on my drivers floorboard that I need to take care of, got rid of a good bit just with a green scuff pad already, gonna finish up by hand with some sandpaper or a red scuff pad.
Would like to touch it up with body-matched/close-ish. Thinking just the Duplicolor Perfect Match but what kind of primer should I use? Self-etch?
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Rust reformer, carpet, floor mat. I’m all for color matching, but that doesn’t look like a visible spot.
 
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James9100 said:
Have some light surface rust on my drivers floorboard that I need to take care of, got rid of a good bit just with a green scuff pad already, gonna finish up by hand with some sandpaper or a red scuff pad.
Would like to touch it up with body-matched/close-ish. Thinking just the Duplicolor Perfect Match but what kind of primer should I use? Self-etch?
View attachment 529272

View attachment 529273
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Knock it down to bare metal, use a GOOD primer, then you can color match and throw carpet back down.
 
red02tj said:
Rust reformer, carpet, floor mat. I’m all for color matching, but that doesn’t look like a visible spot.
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No definitely not visible.

Cooper Smith said:
Knock it down to bare metal, use a GOOD primer, then you can color match and throw carpet back down.
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I was hoping to just get rid of the rust by hand as I’d almost need to take the seat out if I wire-wheeled it and didn’t really wanna have to do that.
Any recommendations for a primer? The Duplicolor is an acrylic lacquer so it has to be compatible with that and also has to be able to adhere to existing paint.

Those are two very conflicting answers haha.
 
James9100 said:
No definitely not visible.


I was hoping to just get rid of the rust by hand as I’d almost need to take the seat out if I wire-wheeled it and didn’t really wanna have to do that.
Any recommendations for a primer? The Duplicolor is an acrylic lacquer so it has to be compatible with that and also has to be able to adhere to existing paint.

Those are two very conflicting answers haha.
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Well you're wasting your time unless you get the whole thing down to bare steel. Rust reformer is great, but you can't just spray it over a floor pan with barely any prep and expect it to last. I learned that the hard way.

The rust being so little, you may be able to get away with it. But IMO I'd just do it the right way and use a self etcher after wire wheeling.
 
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James9100 said:
Those are two very conflicting answers haha.
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I wasn’t super explicit, but rust reformer after you’ve got it down to bare metal. I just don’t see the benefit of painting it with anything else in a spot which won’t be seen.

PS taking out the seat (assuming minimal rust in your bolts is 15min)
 
red02tj said:
I wasn’t super explicit, but rust reformer after you’ve got it down to bare metal. I just don’t see the benefit of painting it with anything else in a spot which won’t be seen.

PS taking out the seat (assuming minimal rust in your bolts is 15min)
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Rust reformer isn't really a "paint". So people rubbing their feet over the carpet will bring it to square one. I tried to get away with a little bit of reformer on the center of my floor pan. Buddy of mine moving his damn feet all the time it scuffed down to bare metal again.

@James9100 if you truly don't care, some reformer and truck bed liner will do just fine. Knock that down some more and get it smoother though.
 
Cooper Smith said:
Knock it down to bare metal, use a GOOD primer, then you can color match and throw carpet back down.
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I had mine cleaned showing no rust. Then, it was primed and bedlined. I ditched the carpet because it just creates areas of water pockets that lead to rust. Whenever I see water pockets now, after an intense rain, I just soak it up. The bedlining adds good noise reduction, and I fastened Jeep floor mats over the top for extra grip and noise reduction. Everyone says it looks nice too. I got the idea on this forum and it works. No floorpan rust at all. I have white bedliner, so any rust will permeate, and I see none, as long as I keep the floorpan dry.
 
Man I’m having a hard time deciding what route I wanna go… I think to start with I’m going to see how well I can get it cleaned up just by hand with scotch-brite pads.
If I can get it clean, even if not entirely down to bare metal, I may or may not do the rust reformer then prime and topcoat with color match.
From what I’m reading the right primer shouldn’t have a problem adhering to a combination of bare metal, old primer, and old paint (as long as it’s scuffed).
But I’m not sure if the rust reformer is compatible with acrylic lacquers yet.

Thanks for the advice guys, it will be taken into account and I’ll update you where it’s at after putting in some elbow grease.

Also, I do have rubber floor mats through my TJ so foot traffic scuffing down anything I do shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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James9100 said:
Man I’m having a hard time deciding what route I wanna go… I think to start with I’m going to see how well I can get it cleaned up just by hand with scotch-brite pads.
If I can get it clean, even if not entirely down to bare metal, I may or may not do the rust reformer then prime and topcoat with color match.
From what I’m reading the right primer shouldn’t have a problem adhering to a combination of bare metal, old primer, and old paint (as long as it’s scuffed).
But I’m not sure if the rust reformer is compatible with acrylic lacquers yet.

Thanks for the advice guys, it will be taken into account and I’ll update you where it’s at after putting in some elbow grease.

Also, I do have rubber floor mats through my TJ so foot traffic scuffing down anything I do shouldn’t be an issue.
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Rusty metal primer will work fine. Krylon and Rustoleum make it.
 
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