Well in that case, @mrblaine might need to try one of these 30+ year radiators out since it's very obviously better than any of the OE stuff.
Blew my radiator
- Thread starter meangreen98
- Start date
Well in that case, @mrblaine might need to try one of these 30+ year radiators out since it's very obviously better than any of the OE stuff.
Yep. I've noticed the Mopar radiators have been going up in price steadily since they no longer make them.
RockAuto has one for $277:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mopar,55037653AB,radiator,2172
Well you can get them from US radiators, see my link above, and they were OE back in the day, but most people wont pay for top quality. Besides, there is all of the sales bullshit about an aluminum radiator cooling better, well they dont. They can asorb the heat from the coolant better than copper but they cannot dissipate it, the emissivity of copper/brass radiators is way higher and that is what cools the coolant. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html
RockAuto charged me $291.89 for that part January 2018, just checked my order. You think they have a 15 month price guarantee?
Chris give me your honest opinion. I’ve ordered all new everything (based on your cooling system overhaul thread) but was gonna skip the rad. Bad idea? It has 80k on it and I’ve never had any trouble out of it. Really just didn’t want to spend another $300 is what it honestly boils down to. I’m 20k away from 100k and could get who knows how many more after 100k
Edit: I did overheat last year and experienced reduced power like another use said but I had the boss lady in the LJ, was sitting still for 15 mins and had the AC on while we ate our fast food. When I started driving again it did cool down but ran like shit for at least an hour after the overheating episode.
I have an '04 that used to start misfiring when it got hot. There's a TSB for that problem that cures it, which I did to mine and it did indeed cure the misfire. All the TSB does is have you wrap the #3 injector with insulation which stop heat soak which causes the fuel to vaporize inside the injector when it gets too hot.
This is the insulation wrap specified by the TSB that I bought off Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007O3QHDK/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Just use a short zip tie to hold it in place.
Skip the radiator If your are just worried about busting it when you are sitting in the drive through. I replaced mine because I spend time in 120+ heat every year and a busted radiator is not a fun situation. People get 200k+ on the stock one.
If it hasn't been suggested to @meangreen98 he should leave his radiator cap loose so it doesn't build pressure and blow the JB weld Just click it on past the ears but not tight.
Here's my thought. Even though your radiator might last another several years, I think it's worth it to buy a spare just to have around for when they really do all run out, then they'll just be even more expensive.
I don't think it's an absolute must. But when I think of doing the water pump and everything else, in my mind it just makes a lot of sense to do the radiator, especially if the vehicle is 15 years old.
The difference between the Middle East and normal option is how the flanges are built. Essentially the ME option is for a right hand drive and the radiator is shifted over to the side.
Neighbor with a YJ just got in touch a few days ago. He wanted to know what to replace his crappy Champion with that has leaked on the last two and he is over replacing them under warranty.
The difference would be how the AT cooler lines hook up to the trans cooler. The radiator is the same but there is as least one change in how the lines attach.
This is great, i never knew about this. I hope that's the reason mine was running bad after the whole incident this morning.
They may have been 30 years ago. They haven't been good for the TJ that we have ever found except the OEM version.
Hmm, curious. I'm in 62 degree weather and its about a 25 minute ride home. This couldn't cause any cooling problems can it?
The problem with that is emissivity is not the only criteria that dictates the efficiency of a core. In order for the thermal transfer to take place out of the tube, there has to be good contact between the side of the fin and the side of the tube. Traditional construction of copper and brass styles used lead based solder to do that and lead is a very poor conductor of heat. So while the superior emissivity of copper is not in question, the use of lead solder kills the performance and lowers it to about the same level as the furnace brazed aluminum connection which uses aluminum for the connection and you don't get the dissimilar material heat transfer loss.
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