Because more than 4" suspension lift on a tj starts making compromising that aren't optimal.
Well for starters it’s an LJ. The op, is trying to run 35s…. 4” suspension lift should be more than enough lift to run 35’s.
Well for starters it’s an LJ. The op, is trying to run 35s…. 4” suspension lift should be more than enough lift to run 35’s.
Exactly and well said.What I’ve taken from this conversation is that (1) the MML will only improve driveline angles (and the body lift part won’t affect them); (2) there are specific types (materials) that are better for the body lift and MML than others to prevent vibration transferred to the body; and (3) once you add the “belly up” skid to raise the transfer case, a new driveshaft and SYE are inevitable, LJ or not.
Lay off the silver bullets,you've had enough. Lj doesn't have more clearance.
So you’re saying the LJ and TJ are gonna have the same angles with a 4” lift? Never mentioned the LJ having more clearance we were talking angles I thought. Sheesh I must have drank one too many of them.
What angles exactly make an lj easier to fit 35s on?
no, he was wondering about the tummy tuck affecting anglesDid you not read the op, he’s concerned about the added stress on his joints because of the 4” lift.
And you're still wrong about that working wellI already stated the 4” lift will be enough lift for 35s.
Thank you. I do have the cable for the transfer-case shifter (from Savvy). What did you do about the shifter—notch the bezel?The combination of body lift and MML on my 05 LJ made my shifter hit the rear of the shift boot bezel. Would not shift into 2, 4, 6, R with the bezel in place. That pushed my future plans for a shallower skid into the present (UCF Extra-Clearance). Which needed an SYE and DC driveshaft, of course. You should be prepared for a few surprises.
If you don't already have a cable transfer case shifter, you might need one of those too.
Not trying to spend your money for you, the Jeep does that well enough.
Thank you. I do have the cable for the transfer-case shifter (from Savvy). What did you do about the shifter—notch the bezel?
You can move the center console back about 1” to clear the rear shifter bezel so you can get in 2, 4, 6, R. Technically, if you look at the space between the rear cup holders and the tub. That’s how much you can move it back. It’s not ideal, but I did it for a couple years. You’ll need to remove all the bolts, shift everything back, re-drill the lower shift boot 1” forward of the stock holes, and mount them in the stock tub holes. Then self tap the cup holder bolts for now. When/if you get a high clearance skid you can move everything back to OEM.
I haven't taken that thing off in years. I'll unbolt things and see how it all goes together. Thanks.