Body lift & MML vibes?

Because more than 4" suspension lift on a tj starts making compromises that aren't optimal.
 
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Well for starters it’s an LJ. The op, is trying to run 35s…. 4” suspension lift should be more than enough lift to run 35’s.

The usual recommendation for running 35’s is 5” suspension lift. 4” is the recommendation for 33’s. It’s not that it can’t be done with less, but that it can’t be done with less without more compromises.
 
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The usual recommendation I’ve read (here, and elsewhere) is 5” of lift for 35s. (Will they “fit” with less? That seems like a different question with a different answer.) So I’m starting there. I already have a 4” suspension lift, and it’s a high-quality lift.

I’m not interested, at least for now, in replacing the drive shaft, and all that goes along with it. With with a body lift and MML, (I believe) I get two benefits: more clearance for larger tires, and better driveline angles for less wear. Those are not zero benefit. In any event, that’s what I came here to learn.

I get that others would choose to spend (my) money on larger springs, new shocks to match, an SYE and new driveshaft, and so on. That seems like a reasonable choice for them. And maybe I’ll make it in the future for myself. (That does seem to be how these things go.) But for now, it isn’t for me.

What I’ve taken from this conversation is that (1) the MML will only improve driveline angles (and the body lift part won’t affect them); (2) there are specific types (materials) that are better for the body lift and MML than others to prevent vibration transferred to the body; and (3) once you add the “belly up” skid to raise the transfer case, a new driveshaft and SYE are inevitable, LJ or not.

I very much appreciate everyone’s advice. I’m off the put it to good use.
 
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What I’ve taken from this conversation is that (1) the MML will only improve driveline angles (and the body lift part won’t affect them); (2) there are specific types (materials) that are better for the body lift and MML than others to prevent vibration transferred to the body; and (3) once you add the “belly up” skid to raise the transfer case, a new driveshaft and SYE are inevitable, LJ or not.
Exactly and well said.
 
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The body lift adds room to work on things in all the right places too.makes the floorboard much cooler and allows you to tuck that gas tank up. So many benefits.

Don't forget to use aluminum pucks not plastic since they deform. And if you have a manual trans you will have to pay attention to shifter clearances so you don't rip the boots and still have proper throw.
 
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The combination of body lift and MML on my 05 LJ made my shifter hit the rear of the shift boot bezel. Would not shift into 2, 4, 6, R with the bezel in place. That pushed my future plans for a shallower skid into the present (UCF Extra-Clearance). Which needed an SYE and DC driveshaft, of course. You should be prepared for a few surprises.

If you don't already have a cable transfer case shifter, you might need one of those too.

Not trying to spend your money for you, the Jeep does that well enough.
 
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Lay off the silver bullets,you've had enough. Lj doesn't have more clearance.

So you’re saying the LJ and TJ are gonna have the same angles with a 4” lift? Never mentioned the LJ having more clearance we were talking angles I thought. Sheesh I must have drank one too many of them.
 
What angles exactly make an lj easier to fit 35s on?

Did you not read the op, he’s concerned about the added stress on his joints because of the 4” lift. Hence the reason he wants to do the mml. I already stated the 4” lift will be enough lift for 35s. Been downing them bud lights eyy?
 
Did you not read the op, he’s concerned about the added stress on his joints because of the 4” lift.
no, he was wondering about the tummy tuck affecting angles

I already stated the 4” lift will be enough lift for 35s.
And you're still wrong about that working well

Maybe you aren't drunk.it could be an IQ problem?
 
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The combination of body lift and MML on my 05 LJ made my shifter hit the rear of the shift boot bezel. Would not shift into 2, 4, 6, R with the bezel in place. That pushed my future plans for a shallower skid into the present (UCF Extra-Clearance). Which needed an SYE and DC driveshaft, of course. You should be prepared for a few surprises.

If you don't already have a cable transfer case shifter, you might need one of those too.

Not trying to spend your money for you, the Jeep does that well enough.
Thank you. I do have the cable for the transfer-case shifter (from Savvy). What did you do about the shifter—notch the bezel?
 
I just popped the bezel off and layed it crossways over the console. That gave enough room to shift for a week or two until I got everything else installed. The problem went away with the body lift, MML, and Extra-Clearance skid all in place. The higher skid shoves the tranny back up to where the shifter is more centered in the console again.
 
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Thank you. I do have the cable for the transfer-case shifter (from Savvy). What did you do about the shifter—notch the bezel?

You can move the center console back about 1” to clear the rear shifter bezel so you can get in 2, 4, 6, R. Technically, if you look at the space between the rear cup holders and the tub. That’s how much you can move it back. It’s not ideal, but I did it for a couple years. You’ll need to remove all the bolts, shift everything back, re-drill the lower shift boot 1” forward of the stock holes, and mount them in the stock tub holes. Then self tap the cup holder bolts for now. When/if you get a high clearance skid you can move everything back to OEM.
 
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You can move the center console back about 1” to clear the rear shifter bezel so you can get in 2, 4, 6, R. Technically, if you look at the space between the rear cup holders and the tub. That’s how much you can move it back. It’s not ideal, but I did it for a couple years. You’ll need to remove all the bolts, shift everything back, re-drill the lower shift boot 1” forward of the stock holes, and mount them in the stock tub holes. Then self tap the cup holder bolts for now. When/if you get a high clearance skid you can move everything back to OEM.

I haven't taken that thing off in years. I'll unbolt things and see how it all goes together. Thanks.
 
I haven't taken that thing off in years. I'll unbolt things and see how it all goes together. Thanks.

Even though it's longer, I'm a little surprised you're able to run 4" of lift (with no vibes) on the stock driveshaft.
I was okay with running the Rubicon driveshaft up to 3".
When I added a small tummy tuck, I was concerned about maxing out the u-joints during axle droop so I switched to a DC.