Alright guys I need a little help. Picked up my first TJ a couple weeks back. 97 2.5. Anyhoo it’s got a horrible 3 inch body lift. Yes it is 3 inches. Got it for a great deal and thought it was a good foundation to have my way with it. So I noticed it had a hard start. Had to prime 3-4 times to get it to crank good. Figured it was the anti drain back valve so I picked up a delphi module to slap in there. I thought while I was at it and dropped the tank I would go ahead and get on the body lift removal. Tank came down somewhat easily but the quick disconnect fuel line broke when I was pulling it off. Guessing it was just old. Grabbed some 3/8th line with the quick disconnects. With the tank down I discovered instead of putting the extension for the filler tube at the top he just cut both the filler and the evap lines in half and slapped the extensions in. Got the filler tube but still need to get the evap to go with it. This is question 1- anyone know what length to get to save me the hassle or should I just pull it and take it to a parts shop. Moving on I went ahead and started loosing up the body mount bolts. The main ones came loose easy. I moved up and got the shroud and radiator moved back. Transfer case linkage is off as well as the steering bracket which might I add was a HUGE PAIN. Took an hour and a breaker bar to get it. I went ahead and tried getting the grill mounts on either side and both of them just spin. That’s my next question - is there a trick to these two? Also what size are the stock mounts for the grill? It looks like there’s two pieces under each side. I’m thinking one is the stock and the other an extension. The set of stock body mount bolts came with 6 for the main body. 3 for the grill and 2 for the rear. I found there’s two extra pucks under where the backseat. So that’s two other bolts I’m guessing I need to find. So I’m curious what to do there. Other than that I think I’ll get the rest figured out just might take sometime. Thanks guys
Body lift removal roadblocks
- Thread starter Jmgoodnight
- Start date
I've gone through the process of going from 3 inch body lift to 1.25" and boy was it a pain. Do check to see if there is a block used to raise the midpoint connection of the steering linkage.
There are only 11 body mounting points and the two grill supports just plug into the hole, they are not threaded, that's why they are spinning.
The two bolts under the seat area that you were not able to find are adjacent to the upper rear shock mounts, and also accessed from underneath.
This is what the stock grill bumpers look like. If you have two pieces one is likely stock and the other an extension.
Yeah I already got that guy off. That has been the worse so far. Funny how threads about removing these say “it’s so easy” LOL
Yeah I had found them already but again my stock bolt kit did not come with the bolts. I’m guessing this will be a tractor supply run. Or cut the bolts that’s in there off 3 inches.
The bolt that is in there is probably not threaded all the way.
Cut the head off. Cut it too length. Weld the head back on. Save a trip to Tractor Supply.
The bolts have been found. Next roadblock has happened trying to get the tub lined up with the frame. The tub is a good inch forward of the body mounts. Tried using a wratchet strap and my XJs wench and can not get the tub to budgeCut the head off. Cut it too length. Weld the head back on. Save a trip to Tractor Supply.
This ^^^
If it’s an inch forward you likely dropped off of one of the body mounts somewhere - likely the rear - and it’s binding up keeping you from moving the body backward. Use a crowbar and couple of jacks to lift the body a bit and it should take care of it.
If it’s an inch forward you likely dropped off of one of the body mounts somewhere - likely the rear - and it’s binding up keeping you from moving the body backward. Use a crowbar and couple of jacks to lift the body a bit and it should take care of it.
None of the pucks fell off. I could tell it was forward when I bought it a couple weeks ago. Who ever put the BL on did it like this or just didn’t care when it shifted. Honestly none of the body mount bolts were that tight when I started this. I just tighten up my parking break real tight hoping that will keep the frame stationary while I pull the tub again with a wench. This is why you don’t put body lifts on. They look terrible and a pain to remove
ATCKIP
Member
Seeing your experienced and in Georgia, want to do another! I'm getting ready to remove the 3" on mine also.
3 inch body lifts must have been popular a few years back
3 inch body lifts must have been popular a few years back
Lmaoooo. I think they were popular for people that wanted the look but not the budget. I’m happy to answer any questions and help you out. Most of it has been trial and error and I’m still not done completely 5 days in. Only thing I have left is getting the steering knuckle bolted and adjusting the t case shifter. Make sure your tank is empty when you drop it to get to those body bolts in the trunk area. I had about 5 gallons in there thinking it wouldn’t be bad. It was bad. Also the two grill supports might have to be cut to fit back right. I had to take 3/16 off so the shroud wouldn’t hit.
ATCKIP
Member
I didn't realize I needed to drop the tank! Did you go back stock? I got a 1.25 kit to replace. I needed the correct hardware anyway. I also have a 1" MML to install. Hopefully will fix the shroud problems. I'm going to replace the 3 inch body lift with 2 inch springs, but figured the body lift project needs to be done first.
So mine had 2.5 suspension and then 3 inch body on top. I just removed the body cause 2.5 is big enough for my use. I’m only gonna put 31s or 32s under it. Currently has 33s and there’s good clearance. Yeah the tank has to come out. I had download the install instructions and just went in reverse and honestly it didn’t say anything about those two in the rink area. I just happened to find them. I put a new fuel module in since the tank was already dropped and I’d totally suggest doing the same so you don’t have to worry about that hassle again for a long time. You might not need the motor mounts as you will already have the drop brackets for the radiator. But keep everything loose up there when you drop it and then make sure things line up. You might need a new filler line as well if they put the extension in the middle. That was $30 I think and then some gates line for the evap tube. Oh and when you get the lift off one side don’t be surprised if the new bolts don’t want to go in right away. They will once the other side is dropped
Rickrocket2
New Member
When you take off the 3" kit, I am looking for a replacement 3" front "bumper" part. The short tube with the half sphere rubber bumper. I don't know the mfg of the kit that is on my '01 TJ right now, but this pc. is missing. *sigh*
I'm in Atlanta. If you are looking to give up your parts maybe we can work something out, it would be a big help vs buying a whole new kit.
Thanks,
Rick
I'm in Atlanta. If you are looking to give up your parts maybe we can work something out, it would be a big help vs buying a whole new kit.
Thanks,
Rick
Awe man I wish you would’ve asked yesterday morning. I threw all the 3 inch pucks away in a fit of absolute anger having took 6 days to get the lift off and everything back in place. I would’ve just given you what ever you needed. I did however just see on FB market place a 3 body lift with all the pucks for like $20. If you’re in ATL I’m guessing it will pop up for you. I can’t remember where the seller was located tho