Brake Job

dtroth91

dtroth91

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orange county
I was inspecting the brakes prior to an upcoming trip where I will be towing a 1.8k lb trailer from CA to OH.

The pads seem like they could use replacing, so I was thinking I'd replace with BMB since they are well regarded.

My question is do these rotors need replacing? I don't mind replacing if it is needed, but also don't wanna empty the wallet any more than necessary.

Thanks

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dtroth91 said:
My question is do these rotors need replacing?
Click to expand...

You need to measure them. There is a minimum spec stamped on the hat. Measure on the pad/rotor face surface in at least 3 places. Other than that, feel the rotor surface for deep groves. Yours appears to be groove free, but I can only see a picture.

Your pads appear to still be good thickness-wise. Are they wearing evenly? What issues are you having?
 
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Visually they look clean if BOTH rotor sides are good
However were they ever “cut & resurfaced” by a shop??

If you dont know, then they need to be calipered
Not sure if you did that last install or not so….

I personally have had incredible performance results from Amazon bought Power-Stop front disc & rotor sets and their rear drum brake kits

$109 FRONT PADS & discs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AN5UKYS?tag=wranglerorg-20

EXTREME Fronts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009FRTTBU?tag=wranglerorg-20

I got the drum kit off RockAuto, best price
https://www.extremeterrain.com/powe...eplacement-brake-drum-pad-kit-koe15300dk.html
Doing the rears after the fronts reeeeeally gave a balanced HARD BITE feel overall
 
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Brake pads are wearing evenly.

Not experiencing any issues, just regular maintenance before a long drive.

I see that the wear indicator on the brakes pads still show some life, but not exactly sure how much. I've put 40k miles and have not changed any of the braking system since it was purchased.

Rotors look like they have plenty of life, just not sure what I am looking for in a "bad" rotor besides it being worn out completely.

I will check for pitting or deep grooves on the rotors and measure them with a caliper. I'll check for the stamping on the hat as well.

If all is well with the rotors, I suppose maybe just some new pads

Thanks
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Visually they look clean if BOTH rotor sides are good
However were they ever “cut & resurfaced” by a shop??

If you dont know, then they need to be calipered
Not sure if you did that last install or not so….

I personally have had incredible performance results from Amazon bought Power-Stop front disc & rotor sets and their rear drum brake kits

$109 FRONT PADS & discs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AN5UKYS?tag=wranglerorg-20

EXTREME Fronts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009FRTTBU?tag=wranglerorg-20

I got the drum kit off RockAuto, best price
Doing the rears after the fronts reeeeeally gave a balanced HARD BITE feel overall
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Not sure if they've ever been resurfaced. I purchased it 40k some miles ago and have not changed anything but always give it a looksie when I change u joints, which I've done a few times.
 
dtroth91 said:
. I've put 40k miles and have not changed any of the braking system since it was purchased.
Click to expand...
If those rotors were on the vehicle when you bought it, then you need to caliper them for safety reasons. Prior owner could have already cut them once and you dont know if they are near end of life spec or not regardless of aesthetics

If a rotor runs out of specification, the pads wont grab it properly…and you dont want that kind of ass pucker while towing

O’Reillys is the only place around me that still cuts rotors, besides Napa. You can call and ask them if you dont know how to measure

If the rotors are good, personally Id throw new EXTREME /towing pads on it and call it a day
 
CreepinDeth said:
If those rotors were on the vehicle when you bought it, then you need to caliper them for safety reasons. Prior owner could have already cut them once and you dont know if they are near end of life spec or not regardless of aesthetics

If a rotor runs out of specification, the pads wont grab it properly…and you dont want that kind of ass pucker while towing

O’Reillys is the only place around me that still cuts rotors, besides Napa. You can call and ask them if you dont know how to measure

If the rotors are good, personally Id throw new EXTREME /towing pads on it and call it a day
Click to expand...

Thanks for reply and info. I'll be sure to check the rotors thoroughly, and will start looking at some new pads. Thanks for sharing these links.
 
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dtroth91 said:
Brake pads are wearing evenly.
Click to expand...

Great. Now clean and lube the slides/pins while you have it apart.

dtroth91 said:
I see that the wear indicator on the brakes pads still show some life, but not exactly sure how much. I've put 40k miles and have not changed any of the braking system since it was purchased.
Click to expand...

Looking at the gas vent (grove cut in pads), you still have a while (mileage wise) to go. If the pads and/or shoes are starting to get old, like exceeding 10-15 years old, then I'd start looking to replace. The adhesive breaks down over time and will eventually let go. I've had it happen twice, luckily at low speed, and it will ruin you day, and your underwear. :LOL:

dtroth91 said:
Rotors look like they have plenty of life, just not sure what I am looking for in a "bad" rotor besides it being worn out completely.

I will check for pitting or deep grooves on the rotors and measure them with a caliper. I'll check for the stamping on the hat as well.
Click to expand...

Signs of a bad rotor are 1 - too thin/under min spec, 2- obvious deep grooving, 3 - significant cracking.

dtroth91 said:
If all is well with the rotors, I suppose maybe just some new pads
Click to expand...

Now is the time to flush your brake fluid, too. I’ve never had BMB pads, but people here like them, and Blaine handles his business quite well from my limited experience. I run and recommend EBC pad and rotors on about every one of my vehicles.

This is the front EBC pads for our Jeeps, EBC Brakes UD712 Ultimax OEM Replacement Brake Pad.​

 
BlueC said:
Great. Now clean and lube the slides/pins while you have it apart.



Looking at the gas vent (grove cut in pads), you still have a while (mileage wise) to go. If the pads and/or shoes are starting to get old, like exceeding 10-15 years old, then I'd start looking to replace. The adhesive breaks down over time and will eventually let go. I've had it happen twice, luckily at low speed, and it will ruin you day, and your underwear. :LOL:



Signs of a bad rotor are 1 - too thin/under min spec, 2- obvious deep grooving, 3 - significant cracking.



Now is the time to flush your brake fluid, too. I’ve never had BMB pads, but people here like them, and Blaine handles his business quite well from my limited experience. I run and recommend EBC pad and rotors on about every one of my vehicles.

This is the front EBC pads for our Jeeps, EBC Brakes UD712 Ultimax OEM Replacement Brake Pad.​

Click to expand...

Just so you know, we have the BMB stuff purely due to them being far better than anything EBC has. In fact, the first Vanco kits used and were shipped with EBC until we found the BM stuff.
 
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LONGJP2 said:
Not bad advice, but the slide does not move in relation to the pin (bolt) so it's not really needed.
Lube will however prevent corrosion.
Click to expand...

That is a bit of misinformation. The dust boot has ridges inside where it fits in the loop in the caliper body. The ridges hold the silicone grease so the caliper can slide back and forth on the guide sleeve which is bolted to the knuckle and doesn't move. The guide sleeve should be pushed out of the boots, the inside of the boot in the middle coated with silicone grease and then the sleeves should be reinstalled. So yes, lube is very much needed.
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Wow….Times have changed
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Ignore at your own peril. Before we started insisting on that, we would get 1-2 contacts per week from folks wanting to know why their caliper(s) locked up and smoked the pads/rotor. But, I expect nothing less from you. Since we started putting the info on the pad boxes, that has slowed the incidence rate down to a few times per year.
 
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dtroth91 said:
Thanks for reply and info. I'll be sure to check the rotors thoroughly, and will start looking at some new pads. Thanks for sharing these links.
Click to expand...

The odds are near zero the rotors have been cut since practically no one does that any more. As long as you don't have any noticeable bad habits from the brakes now like judder, pulsation, steering wheel shimmy when braking, or noise, I'd not worry about it much. As stated, no one maintains the brake fluid and does the recommended flush every two years or less so the crap tends to settle in the caliper piston bores and cause issues when the pistons are retracted. The bore clearance is only about .005 so it doesn't take much junk in there to cause them to stick.

If I was you, I would just do a good clean up and re-lube of everything. You have good life in the pads, the rotors don't appear to be grooved and as I said, if you aren't having any issues, just run them. Even if the rotors were deeply grooved, they are matched to the pads so that would only matter for a pad swap. There is a bunch of life left there, take advantage of it.

Also be aware that even if you do an enthusiastic flush before, there is still a pretty good chance that their is crap in the bores that will trap the pistons. We have yet to have one that didn't respond well to popping the piston out, cleaning out the bore and reassembling. Also a good idea to pop the piston seal out and clean that groove carefully.
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Visually they look clean if BOTH rotor sides are good
However were they ever “cut & resurfaced” by a shop??

If you dont know, then they need to be calipered
Not sure if you did that last install or not so….

I personally have had incredible performance results from Amazon bought Power-Stop front disc & rotor sets and their rear drum brake kits

$109 FRONT PADS & discs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AN5UKYS?tag=wranglerorg-20

EXTREME Fronts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009FRTTBU?tag=wranglerorg-20

I got the drum kit off RockAuto, best price
https://www.extremeterrain.com/powe...eplacement-brake-drum-pad-kit-koe15300dk.html
Doing the rears after the fronts reeeeeally gave a balanced HARD BITE feel overall
Click to expand...

Do you mind a bit of extra work in your spare time? I would like to start forwarding the emails I get from folks telling me that Power Stop works no better than stock so you can explain what they are doing wrong. Would that be okay?
 
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Why would I care?? Im not a sales man promoting
Hundreds of reviews from unbiased sales sites say otherwise
i2xCk8e.jpg

Regular pads up top, HD towing pads on bottom
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I see customers of all products with less then stellar reviews including some BMB customers here. Will you say theyve all been perfect??

They have not
Varying people dont all have the same skillset, truck, condition brake systems, e

Ive read the BMB buyers were told they “didnt seat them correctly” or other various reasons which are plausible. Fair assessments

This goes for all products, and to date Ive yet to see anyones quantifiable performance results to compare outside of “we cant do it because XYZ”

My personal experiences were fantastic results
…..and my brake fluid wasnt fully bled and replaced.

I have no ill will towards your product at all. Im sure you have a good product, but the +400% pad cost isnt quantified for me as a buyer. To each their own
 
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CreepinDeth said:
🤣😂
Why would I care?? Im not a sales man promoting
Click to expand...
You care because you were unhappy with the lack of methodology for quantifiable results so I knew from that point forward that no matter what, you were never going to use my products even if what you used as an alternate was completely screwed up so there is that.
CreepinDeth said:
Thousands of reviews from unbiased sales sites say otherwise.
Click to expand...
That's just awesome. Here's how your fucking reviews from unbiased sites works.
https://www.amazon.com/WA-2608-Ampl...ss-Rotation/dp/B0748KYTZN/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I bought one for my neighbor even after explaining that TV reception is line of site and on a good day, that's about 40 miles. Note this is decribed as a 150 mile version which isn't possible. Also note 17,000 reviews giving it a 4.5+ star rating.
My neighbor is 30 miles from the transmitter, it didn't pull in any more channels than he was already getting.
The tuning feature which turns the antenna to adjust it was random. Turn it a little bit. Need some more, it would go the OPPOSITE direction. Hit the button again and it would go back, or the same way with no logic to it whatsoever and yet, here we are, 17,000+ kind souls trying to get others to share in their misery.
CreepinDeth said:
I see customers of all products with less then stellar reviews including some BMB customers here. Will you say theyve all been perfect??
Click to expand...
You've perverted an issue with not following instructions to be a less than stellar review, they are not the same thing. I would never say anything is perfect.
CreepinDeth said:
They have not
Varying people dont all have the same skillset

Ive read the BMB buyers were told they “didnt seat them correctly” or other various reasons which are plausible. Fair assessments

This goes for all products, and to date Ive yet to see anyones quantifiable performance results to compare outside of “we cant do it because XYZ”
Click to expand...
And bingo, there it is.
CreepinDeth said:
My personal experiences were fantastic results
…..and my brake fluid wasnt fully bled and replaced.

I have no ill will towards your product at all. Im sure you have a good product, but the +400% pad cost isnt quantified for me as a buyer. To each their own
Click to expand...
Your problem is you have found a way to consider yourself an expert with a statistical sample of working on one TJ. So again, I expect nothing less from you.

I'll make you a little wager, simple and easy. I'll quit telling folks to flush their brake fluid if you step up and ship them new calipers when theirs lock up from stuck pistons. Deal?
 
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Quite the offensive for a salesman challenged by great reviews for other products

i already stated last year when we did this little circle jerk, that I intended to start at the bottom, and list my results in prime season. This was per YOUR OFFERING to provide your products for me to test, to which I said I would agree

So Im not exactly sure why youve got such a hard on for anyone reporting positive results, and the need to attack by calling one guys positive feedback “ a so called expert”. This is referred to as Strawman arguments

Based on your continued Sales defense pestering over other products mentioned, it doesnt seem a viable measure of time spent for me, even if free

Good luck
 
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