Brake pedal goes to the floor when engine is on

Tribesman

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I recently purchased a 98 TJ. The brakes were shot. I replaced everything at the wheels. Calipers, rotors, shoes etc. I also replace all the brake lines. This Jeep had been sitting for a while. In the process of removing the rusted out lines I ended up removing a line that was not a brake line. Not sure what it was. Could it have been a metal vacuum line?

Guys I'm a newbie. I am completely new to this. Anyway when I filled the system with fluid I have what sounds like a vacuum problem when I turn on the engine. The brake pedal goes to the floor. I hear air moving when I press the pedal. It seems to work with the engine off.

I have attached a picture below of a rectangular black plastic box that I do not recognize. A rubber hose comes out of this and went to the metal line that I removed. At lease as well as i can remember. Now it goes nowhere.

InkedVacuum box_LI.jpg


InkedHose Vacuum box_LI.jpg


Here you can see the box i'm talking about and the hose that now goes nowhere.


If anybody has any suggestions I would really appreciate it.
 
That is your EVAP canister...it has nothing at all to do with the brakes.

Forgive these basic questions, but you said you were new at this...so...

Have you bled the brakes yet?

On the calipers...are they mounted such that the bleeder screws are on top or on bottom?...they need to be on top.
 
That’s the EVAP canister and the line you pulled off is prob the purge line going into the manifold. What you hear is a vacuum leak. That line needs to plug into your manifold. As for the brakes sounds like you just need them bleed..
 
Stuckless, Thanks for clearing up what the mystery black box is. The air sound is definitely got something to do with the brakes because I only hear it when I push the pedal. I have been bleeding the brakes and they seem to work unpowered. I have read that the booster canister could be leaking. Any other suggestions?
 
PatMc. Yes I have bled the brakes. And yes the bleed holes are on the top. No offense here to the questions as I said I am new to this which I am. I got to where the brakes seem to work without power but when the engine is on the pedal goes to the floor. I hear a swooosh sound when I pump with the engine running.
 
Guys I'm a newbie. I am completely new to this. Anyway when I filled the system with fluid I have what sounds like a vacuum problem when I turn on the engine. The brake pedal goes to the floor. I hear air moving when I press the pedal. It seems to work with the engine off.
If your pedal is going to the floor when the engine is running you still have air in your lines or your master cylinder is bypassing with the added pressure provided by the booster.
As for the air/vacuum sound when pushing the pedal with the engine running, Does it start making the sound when you first start pushing the pedal or does it only start when the pedal gets to the floor?
 
If your pedal is going to the floor when the engine is running you still have air in your lines or your master cylinder is bypassing with the added pressure provided by the booster.
As for the air/vacuum sound when pushing the pedal with the engine running, Does it start making the sound when you first start pushing the pedal or does it only start when the pedal gets to the floor?
It sounds like what you hear when you blow up a balloon. I can pump the brakes and hear the sound repeatedly. I get resistance in the pedal but if I go slow it will go the floor and then no more sound. If I turn the engine off then I get resistance and the pedal does not go to the floor.
 
It sounds like what you hear when you blow up a balloon. I can pump the brakes and hear the sound repeatedly. I get resistance in the pedal but if I go slow it will go the floor and then no more sound. If I turn the engine off then I get resistance and the pedal does not go to the floor.
From that description my suggestion is to get some plugs that fit into the ports on the m/c to isolate it from the rest of the brake system to see if the same thing happens. If the pedal still goes to the floor when the engine is running you need to replace the m/c. If it doesn't then you still have air in the lines. That is assuming you don't have a leak somewhere. If you're not losing brake fluid anywhere those are the only other possibilities.
 
Many people over think brake system hydraulic problems. Let's go back to the basics...

If there is no air in the system...

The master cylinder simply displaces brake fluid...if fluid has a place to go, the master cylinder will continue to displace fluid until there is no more places for fluid to go, at which point it will stop moving.

Every caliper/wheel cylinder will "consume" a certain fluid volume between apply and release. The master cylinder is sized such that this cumulative volume can be displaced with less than 1/4 or so of the pedal stroke.

^^^ all that is in a perfect world...but the world is not perfect. We have caliper flex, pad compression, brake hose expansion...all which can "consume" more fluid volume under various conditions.

All the booster does is help you push the pedal harder. You have less pressure (vacuum) on the front side of the diaphragm and more pressure (atmosphere) on the back side. If you multiply this pressure differential by the surface area of the diaphragm, you will have a fair idea of the amount of assist available. As you push the pedal, atmosphere is allowed into the "pressure side" chamber of the booster...typically we have a felt or foam muffler of sorts in there so you can't hear it, but as those degrade, it can become audible. Boosters do not fail in a manner which makes them work better than they should, so if the pedal is going down farther with when vacuum is supplied to the booster, for the sake of this discussion, the booster is not the cause of your pedal going to the floor.

One of 2 situations exists...either you do not have the system properly bled and air still exists and is compressing, or your fluid volume requirement in order to actuate one or more wheel hydraulic assemblies is too great.

Before doing anything else, I would bleed the brakes some more. The method I prefer over all others (unless SI specifically calls out a process) is one person in the vehicle and one person down at the wheel. Depress the pedal, have your helper open the bleeder, close the bleeder when the pedal hits the floor, and then release the pedal. Do this about 10 times per wheel, and don't jump on the pedal too hard...we don't want to froth the fluid, but we do want to create fluid velocity to carry air bubbles downhill against their will.

If the problem remains after this, and you have rubber brake hoses...clamp off all of the brake hoses front and rear, then start the engine and see how the pedal feels...should be about like a rock. If it is...we can make a fair assumption that the problem lies downstream of one of the clamps...with the engine running, remove one clamp at a time and see how the pedal reacts. Each time you introduce another corner back into the system...the pedal will have a bit more travel, but not anywhere near the floor. When you find the corner that after unclamping the line causes the pedal to go to the floor, have a helper cycle the pedal while you stare at that caliper and see what is moving too much and why. Between apply and release, you should barely be able to see any movement, if at all...

If the pedal still goes to the floor with the lines all clamped off, then go up and plug off the master cylinder ports, then fire it up and perform the same test. Pedal should be a rock, if its not, either the master cylinder has air in it or it has failed.
 
No, it's not. Do you have a reading comprehension problem?
Since you went there, lets actually discuss what you said in depth shall we.
If there is no air in the system...

The master cylinder simply displaces brake fluid...if fluid has a place to go, the master cylinder will continue to displace fluid until there is no more places for fluid to go, at which point it will stop moving.
My suggestion was to isolate the master cylinder from the rest of the system.
Considering the fact that in 2 separate posts the OP said the brakes were bled, and that he had a hard pedal as long as the engine was not running.
Could there possibly be air in the system still? Maybe but he would still have a spongy pedal.
PatMc. Yes I have bled the brakes. And yes the bleed holes are on the top. No offense here to the questions as I said I am new to this which I am. I got to where the brakes seem to work without power but when the engine is on the pedal goes to the floor. I hear a swooosh sound when I pump with the engine running.
Every caliper/wheel cylinder will "consume" a certain fluid volume between apply and release. The master cylinder is sized such that this cumulative volume can be displaced with less than 1/4 or so of the pedal stroke.
Since you are trying to be technical, this is technically incorrect. The wheel cylinders and calipers do not "consume" brake fluid. They are cavities that expand as brake material is consumed. The fluid that is displaced (which is very minimal) as you push the brake pedal simply applies pressure to the pistons in the calipers and wheel cylinders. When you release the pedal this pressure is released. If, and only if the the drum brakes are way out of adjustment will there be any large amount of fluid displaced in which case the spring pressure within the drum brake assembly will in turn push that fluid back into the lines and m/c.
Many people over think brake system hydraulic problems. Let's go back to the basics...

^^^ all that is in a perfect world...but the world is not perfect. We have caliper flex, pad compression, brake hose expansion...all which can "consume" more fluid volume under various conditions.
Talk about over thinking!!
None of those events would equate to a pedal going to the floor.
A leak, or air in the system or a master cylinder with bad internal seals will and I covered all 3 of those issues in my comment prior to yours.
One of 2 situations exists...either you do not have the system properly bled and air still exists and is compressing, or your fluid volume requirement in order to actuate one or more wheel hydraulic assemblies is too great.
Once again wrong answer. Ok well half of it could be the right answer. The second part is not even worth mentioning unless someone has gone completely custom and pieced together a brake system with too small of a master cylinder.... :rolleyes:
There are 3 possible causes for his symptom, Air in the system, a fluid leak some where, or a master cylinder that is leaking internally.
If the problem remains after this, and you have rubber brake hoses...clamp off all of the brake hoses front and rear, then start the engine and see how the pedal feels...should be about like a rock. If it is...we can make a fair assumption that the problem lies downstream of one of the clamps...with the engine running, remove one clamp at a time and see how the pedal reacts. Each time you introduce another corner back into the system...the pedal will have a bit more travel, but not anywhere near the floor. When you find the corner that after unclamping the line causes the pedal to go to the floor, have a helper cycle the pedal while you stare at that caliper and see what is moving too much and why. Between apply and release, you should barely be able to see any movement, if at all...
Where to start? Clamping a rubber brake hose for the purpose of stopping fluid loss during caliper replacement is one thing, (no pressure) trying to use a clamp to stop the fluid under pressure could be very problematic. It "could" very easily damage the hose with the amount of clamping force needed to restrict flow even if they are reinforced rubber hoses. As for isolating all 4 corners, that's not possible since he only has 3 brake hoses.
The solution I suggested would accomplish the exact same goal other than isolating individual front calipers. If after isolating the master cylinder he were to find it is in fact not bad, he could easily hook up the front brake line and proceed further with testing while the rear is still plugged off. If all checked out there he could then hook up the rear.

I came up with my test solution based off of this response to my question on post #6
It sounds like what you hear when you blow up a balloon. I can pump the brakes and hear the sound repeatedly. I get resistance in the pedal but if I go slow it will go the floor and then no more sound. If I turn the engine off then I get resistance and the pedal does not go to the floor.
Based on the information he gave prior to and more specifically this reply, the most likely cause for his problem is the master cylinder.
How did I come up with this conclusion? Experience, and knowing exactly how the braking system works with all it's components.
 
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Come on guys... let's not let this thread turn into a pissing match. I'm not taking sides, but I have a feeling where this is going. Keep it clean, please (y)
 
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Considering the fact that in 2 separate posts the OP said the brakes were bled, and that he had a hard pedal as long as the engine was not running.

None of those events would equate to a pedal going to the floor.
Guess what the test is for air in the system on newly installed components? That's right, if you start the engine and the pedal drops more than about 1" with the pressure you would use to prevent the vehicle from rolling at a stop. The amount of drop can be anything from a few inches all the way to the floor.

The hard pedal with the engine off and then dropping far more than it should when started is the classic indication for calipers upside down which is air in the system. I also don't trust anyone new that says the system is bled. I've seen that comment way too many times with calipers on upside down. Bleeding is not the same as bled. It is bled when all the air is out.
 
Guess what the test is for air in the system on newly installed components? That's right, if you start the engine and the pedal drops more than about 1" with the pressure you would use to prevent the vehicle from rolling at a stop. The amount of drop can be anything from a few inches all the way to the floor.

The hard pedal with the engine off and then dropping far more than it should when started is the classic indication for calipers upside down which is air in the system. I also don't trust anyone new that says the system is bled. I've seen that comment way too many times with calipers on upside down. Bleeding is not the same as bled. It is bled when all the air is out.
I realize that, and in my responded to the OP I told him that could be one possible problem.
If your pedal is going to the floor when the engine is running you still have air in your lines or your master cylinder is bypassing with the added pressure provided by the booster.
As for the air/vacuum sound when pushing the pedal with the engine running, Does it start making the sound when you first start pushing the pedal or does it only start when the pedal gets to the floor?
 
Read the first part again. He replaced all the brake lines. He doesn't know what he is doing. He is unaware that you can't let the master drain.
That is a possibility. Easy enough to check out when/if he tries what I suggested to isolate the m/c