Broken exhaust manifold bolt

JoeSpit

JoeSpit

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Dec 9, 2020
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island of maui
Welp i knew i've had a cracked exhaust manifold for some time and i finally decided to get wrenching on it. I come to find out, not only was my exhaust cracked I am also missing all but one intake manifold bolt. Seems like most wriggled out as the one left was finger tight, along with the outer most exhaust manifold bolts.

HOWEVER that top middle exhaust bolt done sheered off with minimal effort and now i gus i gots to drill n tap it. Any pointers on that?

Also it seems Hawaii has no domed washers anywehre in the state, now i noticed on one of the finger loose bolts that it had stacked regular washers, i was thinking to do the same buuut also is that a contributing factor to the bolts loosing up on their own?

I'm planning to redo the engine mounts as well as i figured them being worn could have led to my cracked exhaust and loosening intake bolts
 
See if you can find a left hand drill bit. That often will unthread them while drilling. If that dont work the next step is an EZ out. Do your absolute best to center punch the drill spot in the center of the stud best you can. Far as washers if you have to use flatties try to find Grade 8 washers if nothing else. Places like Ace hardware have them.
 
Washer and welder and nut and the welder along with break free oil of your choice gets most out before drilling.

I remember visiting a friend in Hawaii...Oahu...20 some years ago ...she was going to let me use her Isuzu Trooper for the week. Attempt at as cheap if vacation as possible... didn't mention her truck didn't run until the day before I left...so I brought some tools. Ended up spending most of my week rebuilding that truck. Getting parts was a nightmare.

-Mac
 
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JoeSpit said:
Also it seems Hawaii has no domed washers anywehre in the state, now i noticed on one of the finger loose bolts that it had stacked regular washers, i was thinking to do the same buuut also is that a contributing factor to the bolts loosing up on their own?
Click to expand...

My understanding is that the domed washers do play a role in keeping the bolts in place, as they flex better with the changes in temperature.
 
IF you already have the intake and exhaust manifolds removed; take a nut and weld it to the remaining part of the broken bolt. The combination of heating the bolt and welding the nut on will assist you in removing the broken bolt quickly.
 
i dont have access to a welder unfortunately. Gonna try some extractoring and hopefully not have to fully drill it out n retap

My old exhaust i thought maybe was cracked and thats what was giving me the exhaust leak, but you know that was just all the missing bolts. So i'm debating on whether to reuse the oem one OR my new "greyworks" amazon made in china exhaust manifold.

The old one seems battle tested and the inside has no signs of cracks or anything liker that, while the china one has two bungs (for o2 sensors?) thst i'm sure will leak at some point.

now back to extractin'
 
here some pics of broken bolt and the exterior n interior of old exhaust and da new china one

bolt.jpg


exh.jpg


exhaust.jpg


intexh.jpg


nexh.jpg
 
welp my smaller extrractor boke off in the bolt and i cant seem to drill the small extractor out with my bigger extractor bit. I'm probably gonna have to drill it out. Now the tap n die set i got is supposedly the right size (10.0 with1.50thread pitch), however to test the fit i wanted to see if it'll fit inside the cylender head holes and it seems just a bit bigger. So now i'm stumped.

My neighbor recommends taking off the head to do it right, however i need to drive tomorrow, so he had the other bright idea to "just not use that bolt"

Considering how it only had 1 and half bolts holding it on to begin with i'll giver it a shot. but the bolt that snapped WAS the main bolt holding everything together. But since i dont have domed washers in hawaii, i'll slap everything back together order what i need and i guess drill it out or find a friend with a welder to help extract that bolt.

Now i was also plannig to re do my engine mounts whilst swapping exhaust, although i noticed ill probably have to remover A/c expansion/compressor/alternator to get fit my mits near them bolts, i was able to do driver side w ease.

SO i gus i'm funna put it back sans one bolt and see what happens. Guess i'll try new exhaust manifold to make it look like i did something

all in all...all, i really had to do was put a few bolts in and tighten others. WELP I"M AN IDIOT
 
honestly your best bet is to remove your head and take it to a machine shop. that broke off extractor is going to be damn near impossible to drill. as soon as i read post#6 I knew what was fixing to happen. dont try to drill it by hand you will really fuck up that hole, and be asking what do I do with this figure 8 hole. cheap extractors will screw you every time !!!
 
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tr21triton said:
honestly your best bet is to remove your head and take it to a machine shop. that broke off extractor is going to be damn near impossible to drill. as soon as i read post#6 I knew what was fixing to happen. dont try to drill it by hand you will really fuck up that hole, and be asking what do I do with this figure 8 hole. cheap extractors will screw you every time !!!
Click to expand...

Yeah That was the thought i had. Plus if i ever want to do the passenger side engine mount it'll be easier to just remove the top end i gus.

Everything is back together and she's running and boy is she QUIET i'm sure there will be a small leak at some point but she has a lot more bolts than she did before!
macleanflood said:
That or spend a couple hundred bucks on a cheap welder. You gotta know someone with a squirt gun...

-Mac
Click to expand...

u can do the same job with a cheap mig? I've only welded once and it was just spot welding in floor pans in to then later smother in fiberglass on my old 60 caddy
 
I'd think so. I watched my uncle do it with a 50 year old stick welder.

Sometimes it takes 2-3 tries to get it to stick.

-Mac
 
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