Broken Valve Cover Bolt on 2003 4.0L

PNWBrian

PNWBrian

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Joined
Jan 3, 2019
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23
Location
Covington, WA
I was replacing my valve cover gasket today when I found out that it already had a broken bolt. The head was stripped off nearly flush with the surface. It's bolt in the front, closest to the radiator. This is likely one of the causes of the leak I've had. I've already tried left threaded drill bits, PB blaster and similar tools to remove broken bolts. I've managed to drill into it a bit, but have not been able to get it moving out.

I'm still new to Jeeps and am building up my capabilities in working on it:
  1. Is it an issue to drive with 1 bolt missing on the valve cover?
    1. I'm assuming it will just continue with the leak its had.
  2. How difficult is it to remove the refigerant lines for the A/C?
    1. They have been in the way while trying to get the broken bolt out and don't seem easy to remove.
  3. is this something a mechanic can remove without major costs?
Annotation 2019-04-13 185127.png


Annotation 2019-04-13 185252.png
 
KCsTJ said:
No need to remove the a/c lines..
It looks like if you remove the valve cover it may expose more of the broken bolt.
Have you tried removing the valve cover?
Click to expand...
I have removed the valve cover, cleaned up both sides, and am ready to put it all back together. With the valve cover off it is still a bit of a tight fit to use the extractor tools between the valve and the A/C lines.
 
You might try putting a long punch on what's left, right in the middle, and give it few good whacks. That is if you have the room to do it. It might shock it enough to let more penetrant seem in more.
 
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Keep in mind to remove an A/C line you must evacuate the system as it is illegal to release refrigerant into the atmosphere. The whole process is costly and I would avoid it unless absolutely necessary.
 
A. Paul said:
Keep in mind to remove an A/C line you must evacuate the system as it is illegal to release refrigerant into the atmosphere. The whole process is costly and I would avoid it unless absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...
Ya, removing the lines seems like a bad idea. Worst case, I'll get it to my mechanic if I can't get the bolt out.
 
PNWBrian said:
Ya, removing the lines seems like a bad idea. Worst case, I'll get it to my mechanic if I can't get the bolt out.
Click to expand...
You can buy reverse drill bits. Alot of the time while drilling the pilot hole for the exacter it will spin out the bolt. Just remember to switch your drill to reverse.


Something like this. "NOT RECOMMENDED THIS BRAND"

KKmoon 10pcs Cobalt Left Hand Drill Bit Broken Bolt Damaged Screw Extractor Set with Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRR603/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Boinked said:
You can buy reverse drill bits. Alot of the time while drilling the pilot hole for the exacter it will spin out the bolt. Just remember to switch your drill to reverse.


Something like this. "NOT RECOMMENDED THIS BRAND"

KKmoon 10pcs Cobalt Left Hand Drill Bit Broken Bolt Damaged Screw Extractor Set with Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRR603/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
Ha, that's the exact set I already have. Unfortunately the reverse drill bits aren't pulling it out and the head of my drill is rubbing on the top of the valve or the AC lines. Also because of those components, it's making it challenging to get the shorter extractor bits into place. I'm a bit worried I'm going to damage the threads in the hole as well.

I may try again tomorrow, but I may out it together as much as possible and just get it to a mechanic before I make a more expensive mistake.

Here's what the bolt looks like currently:

IMG_20190413_230357.jpg


IMG_20190413_230355.jpg
 
If you haven't tried already, use a sharp center punch and get a good dimple right in the center. Start your pilot hole small and work your way up to bigger bits. I realize you may be limited due to other components in the way though. That always sucks.
 
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