Building Homer (2005 TJ Build Thread)

[FarFire70]

Picked up this 2005 TJ Sport in March 2007 with 23k miles on it. My wife (GF at the time) always was giving names to things and this Jeep was no different – Upon seeing it that first day, she named him ‘Homer’ and it has stuck ever since.

At the time, I was still in college so upgrades and mods were done on the cheap and in very incremental stages.

Started off with a 1.25 JSK BL.

I can not say enough about how much people need to AVOID this and similar product. Now removing it during this latest build upgrade, I have found tub damage from the JKS BL flexing, collapsing Body Mount Brackets. Just a terrible product. (I can share if there is interest)

After the BL, Homer got a BB rubber puck suspension lift and 33’s.

Not long after, flat fender flares (Xenon brand) went on which completed his look for pretty much the past 10+ years.

 

[FarFire70]

The Jeep rode in that shape for over a decade with several trips to Rausch Creek in PA and Big Dog in VA. During that time, Homer did receive many upgrades along the way. Such as:

• HP Dana 30 (XJ boneyard donor)
• 4.56 Gears w/ Aussie Locker in Front & Eaton E-Locker in Rear
• Rokmen Sliders
• Hardtop (Craiglist steal at $450 in 2010)
• ZJ Tie Rod
• Hand Throttle

Kept him in full skids (engine, steering box, GTS, lower control arm weld-on) to protect all the vitals. I have always been of the mindset to use the skids since I paid for them. Kept me performing with bigger built Jeep with a smaller Jeep – Bang and Clang and get through an obstacle.

Put in no less than 4 catalytic converters… These late model TJs with the 3 cats are just terrible or I have terrible luck – which I do believe to be part the case... Body work and exhaust – the two car domains that are the bane of my existence…

At just 3 years old and 55k miles on the odometer, Homer experienced the typical 05-06 OPDA issue. OPDA was squealing and then he threw the dreaded P0016 DTC and went into limp mode. Luckily, I had picked up the extended warranty so the dealership replaced:

• Camshaft
• Timing Chain
• Valve Tappets
• Water Pump (wheeping)

I suspect that they NEVER did a proper break-in procedure because it only had a delta of 2 miles on the odometer from when I dropped it off to when I got it back. I wasn’t familiar enough with the issue (this was still before the TJ community really knew what was coming with the OPDA issue) and didn’t know what a proper flat tappet break-in procedure should include – ‘The dealership knows what they are doing’…. Naive on my part.

Well… That dealership repair lasted only so long…

 

[FarFire70]

At 122k, Homer went into a rough engine condition while driving home from work. He felt like he was missing a cylinder so I tore into the valve cover and, based on a Jeep mechanic buddy’s advice, I tried break loose the cylinder 6 valves with a deadblow as they weren’t operating and it’s an issue on older I-6 engines.

Well, that wasn’t the issue….

Dealership never broke in the new flat tappet lifters so this one just wore down and final bled out.

So I ordered an assembled long block and went to work. Engine came out, swapped over what was still good, upgraded a lot of the moving components at that same time. Cleaned up a lot of the wiring loom, new clutch, Novak NP231 cable shifter, ball joints… Home was down and torn open so a lot of little things got worked on, too.

 

[FarFire70]

Fast forward a couple months after the engine went back in and Homer was drivable again, I started hearing a clunk in the rear end.

So, I tore into it and couldn’t believe what I found:

The ring gear bolts had backed out…. At this point in our lives, wife and I had 2 vehicles and each had a day jobs in opposite directions. So, I needed Homer back on the road quick. So I picked up new ring gear bolts and (using a wood clamping workbench bc my vise wasn’t big enough for the E-Locker) I put in new bolts. I cleaned it out the best I could and put the diff back together. 30k miles later – the gears haven’t exploded. BUT – I haven’t been off-road in that time too…

 

[FarFire70]

Starting Feb 2021, I started tearing into Homer for a well overdue build and upgrade. Like all good builds, I started with one plan, bought parts for it, and then changed my plan as I got into the build, and so I bought new parts.

Here’s Homer the day he went into the garage in 2021.

 

[FarFire70]

Starting this build thread because it is way overdue. More updates to come to catch up on the work since Homer entered the garage and got torn down and is now going back together.

Life has a way to decide to waylay my progress on this build following the above pic in 2021 as he entered the garage. My wife and I were blessed to have healthy identical twin boys. So my time has been divide for sure. While healthy, our boys were both 11 weeks premature. They are doing GREAT now and we are blessed for that!

Pushing hard to get Homer drivable so I can take my sons for a drive in Homer on their first birthday in July!

 

[Bobohunter1776]

Nice rig! Excited to see how this one goes. I am interested in seeing the tub damage from the BL though. I've heard stuff about the JKS lifts but have no idea how to ID them.

 

[FarFire70]

Nice rig! Excited to see how this one goes. I am interested in seeing the tub damage from the BL though. I've heard stuff about the JKS lifts but have no idea how to ID them.

Thanks! He's been a great Jeep!

JKS BL Damage:

Rear pucks collapsing and allowing bolts to hit tub:

1.25" pucks measured under torque:

That's after 10-ish years being installed.

Not sure why this body mount would deform other than a bouncy house living above the solid body mount...

I measured several of the JKS BL pucks as they came out of the Jeep after a decade-plus:

That caliper measurement is of the JKS puck.

Pucks settled around 0.10" each...

I don't have a before photo of the torque box damage I've been repairing (Check out my recent posts in the 'What did you do to your TJ today?' Thread and I can post updates here as I catch up on the build) but I believe the 'spring' effect of the JKS pucks caused damage both to the mounts and the torque box.

Savvy aluminum BL going in now during the new build...

 

[Rickyd]

Nice clean jeep! Thanks for taking us along on the ride.

 

[FarFire70]

Before I tore Homer down, I got to painting some of the parts I had started accumulating.

I ordered a Savvy 3" lift kit, expecting I was going to stick with 33s. While some like the aluminum raw, I'm a fan of the black-on-khaki look on my Jeep so as much of the parts that can get painted black will get painted.

 

[FarFire70]

At some point over the past decade, after starting with BB rubber pucks in the suspension, a buddy got me steal on JKS ACOS spacers and I pushed them to about 3" of lift. At the same time, some used Skyjacker lower CAs went in.

The Jeep had it's rough ride and vibes during this point. 'It's a Jeep'...

Never consistently death wobble. Definitely had too much driveshaft angle because it would shutter on acceleration. I did drop the TC skid with hockey pucks to help 'some'. Did I mention that I was still living this Jeep on a budget...

I owe him better treatment and it's coming with this build.

 

[FarFire70]

I've been lucky that the frame has been in good shape (surface rust only) and I've hit it with Rustoleum a time or two during his life to extend the frame's life. Living the rust-belt/salt life...

Surface rust around some of the factory welds. Early on in my ownership, I did drill a few additional drain points around the low-points that typically rust out.

I have picked up a scope camera that I still need to run through the frame inside. I feel blessed that the frame is in this condition, even if it need some work. My going-in plan was to paint the frame with flat black Rustoleum and matte clear coat Rustoleum before Homer left the garage (plans have change that in the priority list - so I'll get back to that plan to wire wheel and paint)

Status when it went in the garage:

I've hit the area where the TC touches the frame multiple times (every time the skid is off the frame) with Rustoleum. It's a surface rust breeding ground... Solid to date.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Doh!



Looking forward to following along.

 

[FarFire70]

Continuing to catalog Home’s history leading up to this recent (2-year in-progress build)…

In 2017, Homer showed some obvious rust damage on both front fenders.

As I mentioned earlier, I auto body work in one of the few automotive activities I loathe as a shade-tree mechanic. Welp, I had a decision to make in repairing this damage:

1) Repair the damage with Bondo and paint the repaired areas
2) Buy a welder, repair the damage, paint
3) Turn it over to a body work shop

Option 3 wasn’t going to happen. While I hate the tediousness of auto body work, I want to get better at it to be serviceable as I can’t turn over every rust spot to surcharge service for the rest of my life…

So I decided to save the funds that would go into a welder and try the Bondo route. So I purchased the recommended 3M abrasive brushes, grinding bits, sanding blocks, etc to get the right tools in hand.

“Maybe if I have the right tools in hand, I won’t mind auto body work…” I thought to myself. And off to work I went…

I found myself somewhat enjoying the job and I felt good about the final product. Unfortunately, I can't find any pictures of the final painted product but I promise it definitely met the 10-ft standard.

I was upset after purchase (and needing to use them immediately) that the paint & clear coat I purchased were water-based color coat so it couldn't be wet-sanded... Ugh. But I was happy to have the repairs looking like 'decently matching' painted areas again. Better than rust.


Don't forget what I said about my feelings on auto body work...

 

[Rickyd]

Not that using bondo on a rust hole is a great idea but if you knock the hole down first it takes longer for the rot to reappear. Lil somethin i learned patching up rotten cars by the ocean for financially challenged peeps who needed the leaks to stop.

 

[FarFire70]

Three years later, it was obvious I hadn’t removed the cancer so it started to show up around the Bondo that filled the ‘repairs’ I attempted.

Upon new inspection, it was clear that the passenger fender rust was way deeper ingrained than the small rust I tried to repair. This is a shot looking up in the wheel well just below that last on the fender top I tried to repair.

I already said it – auto body work ain’t my thing… Still much, much to learn. Clearly.

So knowing a ‘teardown’ build was on the horizon, I set my sights on GR aluminum flat fenders (W/ 4" flares) with aluminum inner fenders (since I couldn’t rely on the health of mine). Purchased rear aluminum flares to match. I was lucky enough to hit *Buy* on them before the “Rona” skyrocketed aluminum prices.

I already liked the look of flat fenders (hence the Xenon flares) so this worked with my desired goals for the Jeep (know that tube fenders don't really add clearance without an arch.).

This still kept the expense of a welder off the list.

 

[FarFire70]

Not that using bondo on a rust hole is a great idea but if you knock the hole down first it takes longer for the rot to reappear. Lil somethin i learned patching up rotten cars by the ocean for financially challenged peeps who needed the leaks to stop.

What do you mean by 'knocking the hole down first? Literal forcing back that damaged areas with force before starting the sanding?

I hadn't gone near far enough clearing to truly clean metal.

Honestly, part of me was worried making too big a hole that the bondo would fill but then crack over time (especially how much I climb on/over the fenders when working in the engine bay).

You'll see in my latest previous post that I wasn't going to get after the depth of repairing this cancer without serious work melting in new metal...

 

[Rickyd]

What do you mean by 'knocking the hole down first? Literal forcing back that damaged areas with force before starting the sanding?

I hadn't gone near far enough clearing to truly clean metal.

Honestly, part of me was worried making too big a hole that the bondo would fill but then crack over time (especially how much I climb on/over the fenders when working in the engine bay).

You'll see in my latest previous post that I wasn't going to get after the depth of repairing this cancer without serious work melting in new metal...

I didn't notice it was done in 2017

Yep literally using a hammer on the rust hole to put the rusty thin area further away from the surface and allow you to feather filler out in a larger area. Gives more time.

 

[FarFire70]

I didn't notice it was done in 2017

Yep literally using a hammer on the rust hole to put the rusty thin area further away from the surface and allow you to feather filler out in a larger area. Gives more time.

Makes sense to buy more time and knock out the flaked rust. These repairs would have looked good enough if I had sold him within 6-12 months of the repairs.

By the ocean, in the rust belt, either location that salt is just a bitch...

 

[FarFire70]

Spent a good bit of time getting parts together before I tore into Homer. I figured I'd get it all done at once....

That's not working out to well. In a rush now to get the Jeep driving and through emissions testing before registration is suspended in August.

All the parts will go on, this just isn't going to be a 'one-and-done' teardown.