Can I modify Poison Spyder sliders to mount only to tub?

Hoboscratch

Hoboscratch

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So first off I fully understand why PS sliders mounting to the body mounts sucks, and that is because I have them on my LJ. Structural integrity and all that. I also get popping all the time just driving around town, let alone on the trail, and they do not sit flush against the tub. There are gaps all over and I can tell its pulling on the sheet metal. I had all the mounts loosened the other day and was working to try to align everything better, but ended up just contemplating pulling them off and buying a new set. However, I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the side of my tub. The likelihood that any of the bolt holes will line back up is probably very slim, although I will admit I have not called anywhere and gotten any measurements.

So as I'm sitting here drinking my coffee and looking at sliders, wondering if anyone has cut out the portion that mounts to the body mount and mounted them directly to the bottom of the tub. It doesn't look like they sit flush against the underside though, but hard to tell. A tough experiment to do because if it doesn't work the sliders are completely worthless...
 
I have the eag and they will not. I’ve decided to deadblow the tub square, cut off the steps, and buy my wife a stirrup. I made a thread about this last week and get over it was the advice received about the multiple holes.
 
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I did read your thread just now. Id say the holes is low on my list of concerns after reading that. Mostly I just don’t want to drop additional coin if I don’t have to.
 
Hoboscratch said:
So first off I fully understand why PS sliders mounting to the body mounts sucks, and that is because I have them on my LJ. Structural integrity and all that. I also get popping all the time just driving around town, let alone on the trail, and they do not sit flush against the tub. There are gaps all over and I can tell its pulling on the sheet metal. I had all the mounts loosened the other day and was working to try to align everything better, but ended up just contemplating pulling them off and buying a new set. However, I'm hesitant to drill new holes in the side of my tub. The likelihood that any of the bolt holes will line back up is probably very slim, although I will admit I have not called anywhere and gotten any measurements.

So as I'm sitting here drinking my coffee and looking at sliders, wondering if anyone has cut out the portion that mounts to the body mount and mounted them directly to the bottom of the tub. It doesn't look like they sit flush against the underside though, but hard to tell. A tough experiment to do because if it doesn't work the sliders are completely worthless...
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We converted a set of the PS sliders to mount properly. As you said, cut around the body mounts and then add the offset on top for the rear of the slider to hit the bottom of the torque box in that area. It was labor intensive enough that I won't do another set for anyone and I know better than to acquire some and do it for myself even if they were free.

You also have the problem of them stupidly using 3/8" fasteners so you have to match those which are way too big.
 
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mrblaine said:
We converted a set of the PS sliders to mount properly. As you said, cut around the body mounts and then add the offset on top for the rear of the slider to hit the bottom of the torque box in that area. It was labor intensive enough that I won't do another set for anyone and I know better than to acquire some and do it for myself even if they were free.

You also have the problem of them stupidly using 3/8" fasteners so you have to match those which are way too big.
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Yikes. I wish I’d come across the rock slider guide before snagging these. I also didn’t think about it till you just said it but it sounds like it doesn’t matter if the holes line up anyway, since most don’t use that size fasteners. I’ll be able to use a backing plate if there is some overlap, I suppose.

Well shit
 
Hoboscratch said:
Yikes. I wish I’d come across the rock slider guide before snagging these. I also didn’t think about it till you just said it but it sounds like it doesn’t matter if the holes line up anyway, since most don’t use that size fasteners. I’ll be able to use a backing plate if there is some overlap, I suppose.

Well shit
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The only place you really worry is where there are nutserts and you have to try and reset a new one half a hole to one side. The reason you don't worry about the extra holes is because even taking a different set of the same brand and installing them again almost never results in the holes lining up. Just forget about that part and drill through the rock rail holes with a Rotabroach. They will cut from a sliver to any other level of hole misalignment in the sheet metal without trying to walk on you.
 
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Hoboscratch said:
Yikes. I wish I’d come across the rock slider guide before snagging these. I also didn’t think about it till you just said it but it sounds like it doesn’t matter if the holes line up anyway, since most don’t use that size fasteners. I’ll be able to use a backing plate if there is some overlap, I suppose.

Well shit
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Lol...you drew the same conclusion I did....
 
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what if you took a sheet of 3/16" or 7ga. and a 3/8" spacer or 2 (for the torque box depth difference) and secure it off the torque box out to the edge of those sliders.
then some aluminum bar as a filler from PS panel to new bottom plate. would that lip on the PS skid will accommodate space for hardware along that edge and provide a flat foundation for the filler stick?
or a bend J form from torque box to bottom of PS flange.
 
mrblaine said:
The only place you really worry is where there are nutserts and you have to try and reset a new one half a hole to one side. The reason you don't worry about the extra holes is because even taking a different set of the same brand and installing them again almost never results in the holes lining up. Just forget about that part and drill through the rock rail holes with a Rotabroach. They will cut from a sliver to any other level of hole misalignment in the sheet metal without trying to walk on you.
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That makes sense, and thanks for the tips.
 
someguysjeep said:
what if you took a sheet of 3/16" or 7ga. and a 3/8" spacer or 2 (for the torque box depth difference) and secure it off the torque box out to the edge of those sliders.
then some aluminum bar as a filler from PS panel to new bottom plate. would that lip on the PS skid will accommodate space for hardware along that edge and provide a flat foundation for the filler stick?
or a bend J form from torque box to bottom of PS flange.
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I am guessing that’s where all the effort is placed that @mrblaine had to do. My initial thought was 5 bolts or so with a spacer of some sort, but it’s apparent that there needs to be waaaaaaay more support than that. That’s highlighted in your example too....
 
Hoboscratch said:
I am guessing that’s where all the effort is placed that @mrblaine had to do. My initial thought was 5 bolts or so with a spacer of some sort, but it’s apparent that there needs to be waaaaaaay more support than that. That’s highlighted in your example too....
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There is a semi-local fucktard on Facebook who just loves his PS rails to death. Walks around with a constant chubby over the fact that he owns some.

I showed him this pic asking why anyone thinks it is a good idea to set the rock rails right on the frame side body mounts and his response was "so, what's wrong with that?".

I told him if he did not understand that you may as well not even have body mounts at that point, there's way too much stupid there for me to deal with.

1616246596556.png
 
mrblaine said:
There is a semi-local fucktard on Facebook who just loves his PS rails to death. Walks around with a constant chubby over the fact that he owns some.

I showed him this pic asking why anyone thinks it is a good idea to set the rock rails right on the frame side body mounts and his response was "so, what's wrong with that?".

I told him if he did not understand that you may as well not even have body mounts at that point, there's way too much stupid there for me to deal with.

View attachment 235879
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Shit, tell him I got a set for sale!
 
I converted mine to body mount only. I picked up a set of Ricochet ones on the cheap. I knew there'd be a little work involved with the conversion, but that's "my time" when I'm in the garage farting around. I used a plasma cutter and a large hole saw bit for a guide to clearance the PS body mount slots on the sliders. I measured so that I had about a 1/16" gap on either side of the body mount.

I also cut off the angled "ears" on the front side for the LJ sliders so that I didn't have to loosen any body mount bolts for install. I left just the small angle on there. This allows a slight dip on the rail side as I slide them in. I then drilled and counter sunk 5 holes on the under side for the torque boxes and used the flush mount bolts with nutserts for those (similar to the body side bolts). I used a 1/4" x 2" aluminum flat stock cut in 3" lengths (4 of these) to take up the gap on the two rear torque box mounts. I also used a 1 1/2" x 1/8" angled aluminum for the inside of the tub.

All in all, it took me a day for all the fab work on both sliders. Yeah, I'm definitely a fan of the Savvy's but for $200 and a day in the garage (ok, that equals about 10 beers too) I am happy with them. Blaine is correct, there is definitely some work involved.
 
1904-06LJR said:
I converted mine to body mount only. I picked up a set of Ricochet ones on the cheap. I knew there'd be a little work involved with the conversion, but that's "my time" when I'm in the garage farting around. I used a plasma cutter and a large hole saw bit for a guide to clearance the PS body mount slots on the sliders. I measured so that I had about a 1/16" gap on either side of the body mount.

I also cut off the angled "ears" on the front side for the LJ sliders so that I didn't have to loosen any body mount bolts for install. I left just the small angle on there. This allows a slight dip on the rail side as I slide them in. I then drilled and counter sunk 5 holes on the under side for the torque boxes and used the flush mount bolts with nutserts for those (similar to the body side bolts). I used a 1/4" x 2" aluminum flat stock cut in 3" lengths (4 of these) to take up the gap on the two rear torque box mounts. I also used a 1 1/2" x 1/8" angled aluminum for the inside of the tub.

All in all, it took me a day for all the fab work on both sliders. Yeah, I'm definitely a fan of the Savvy's but for $200 and a day in the garage (ok, that equals about 10 beers too) I am happy with them. Blaine is correct, there is definitely some work involved.
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That is a good write up on what you did, thanks. I already posted mine but hopefully it’ll help someone else down the road
 
Well let make some sense of this. I have an 03 rubicon that I bought from an insurance company in Texas that had been T-boned. It got hit hard enough that it broke a wheel and bent the axle. So the original owner, who was 71, decided the minute the axle was bent that this Jeep is trashed. OK, so it had the factory Rubicon Rub Rails, that was bent which connected to the body mount, just like the PS rails. OK, long and short. I drove to texas and picked up all the extra stuff that was with the jeep when he purchased it new. He tells me I was really stupid for buying it that it was beyond junk. The factory rails cushioned the impact, which he said was a direct hit at 25 mph by a Chevy Tahoe, and the doors are totally undamaged, not a scratch The floor boards where perfect except a small dent behind the rail. HMMMM, I think this conversation doesn't mean much to me as I highly doubt my dumb ass will ever slide into a huge boulder at 25 MPH. What I am saying is 99.9% of us will be happy as hell with PS sliders or any other slider that attaches to the body mount just like factory and has five 3/8" bolts with a backing plate. Sometimes we just burn money on high tech over priced stuff because it does not have the right brand name on it. Savvy Currie, and on and on. If I lived near Johnson Valley, Rubicon or Moab, I would have a different thought. Take car just my thought. I gave $6200 for it and have spent another $9000 on Mod and paint and still not done. But there has to be a limit to this stupidity
 
sam53 said:
Well let make some sense of this. I have an 03 rubicon that I bought from an insurance company in Texas that had been T-boned. It got hit hard enough that it broke a wheel and bent the axle. So the original owner, who was 71, decided the minute the axle was bent that this Jeep is trashed. OK, so it had the factory Rubicon Rub Rails, that was bent which connected to the body mount, just like the PS rails. OK, long and short. I drove to texas and picked up all the extra stuff that was with the jeep when he purchased it new. He tells me I was really stupid for buying it that it was beyond junk. The factory rails cushioned the impact, which he said was a direct hit at 25 mph by a Chevy Tahoe, and the doors are totally undamaged, not a scratch The floor boards where perfect except a small dent behind the rail. HMMMM, I think this conversation doesn't mean much to me as I highly doubt my dumb ass will ever slide into a huge boulder at 25 MPH. What I am saying is 99.9% of us will be happy as hell with PS sliders or any other slider that attaches to the body mount just like factory and has five 3/8" bolts with a backing plate. Sometimes we just burn money on high tech over priced stuff because it does not have the right brand name on it. Savvy Currie, and on and on. If I lived near Johnson Valley, Rubicon or Moab, I would have a different thought. Take car just my thought. I gave $6200 for it and have spent another $9000 on Mod and paint and still not done. But there has to be a limit to this stupidity
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Anyone who uses the factory body mounts to attach rock rails, steps, bottle openers or anything else with a level of functionality more than just aesthetics, is a fucking idiot. Doesn't get any more simple than that. You know, just to help you make some sense of things.
 
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mrblaine said:
Anyone who uses the factory body mounts to attach rock rails, steps, bottle openers or anything else with a level of functionality more than just aesthetics, is a fucking idiot. Doesn't get any more simple than that. You know, just to help you make some sense of things.
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You meant it's not a good idea to connect the tub to the frame with a big friggin piece of angle and walk away calling them sliders? :ROFLMAO:

Oh and, the factory Rubicon sliders (the diamond plate ones) don't use the body mounts. They mount almost exactly how I did the PS conversion I mentioned above.
 
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